[Amboscott]

Mine displayed that error when I tried to scan for codes. It did the lights on dashboard and red/blue thing but drove normally. Fine after a clear with the Scanguage. Big thanks to PitRack for the tips on getting the extra gauges with the OBD-II/blue tooth/ Torque combination.

 

[pitrack_1]

Doing the CAN-CAN

Must agree with dpm, Amboscott and Turbo_Sarah, upsetting the bus is what I thought too. It could be just a random conflict or something like a loose connection (as my bluetooth OBD-II dongle pins are somewhat loose) corrupting data/causing a spike/spurious signal.

Amboscott, re: OBD-II/Torque, I'm glad to be able to provide something 'concrete' for others for a change, so you're most welcome! :smile:

 

[pitrack_1]

Just J2534-passin'-thru the CAN-CAN...

Look forward to hearing more! Especially the new VAG cable, as I've never been able to get mine to work with FreeSSM.

I received my new cable a few days ago. I have been able to install the drivers and get it recognised as a J2534 pass-through cable (using VAG-COM).

But I haven't been able to get it to work with my 2010 Forester Diesel using SSM. From memory now I seem to remember (and confirmed elsewhere) that these newer vehicles are CANBus-only, and SSM doesn't deal with CANBus- as freessm states on its help pages:

14.) Does FreeSSM use/support the CAN-Bus ?

No, because it's not necessary. Of course, the newer vehicles are working with a CAN-Bus system, but it is not used for diagnostic purposes at manufacturer level or rather the communication between engine/transmission control unit and the diagnostic equipment.

However ROMRaider apparently does so that's next on my list to try- hope it can work with the cable I've got. Testing in a day or two.

 

[Turbo_sarah]

I received my new cable a few days ago. I have been able to install the drivers and get it recognised as a J2534 pass-through cable (using VAG-COM)

(..)

However ROMRaider apparently does so that's next on my list to try- hope it can work with the cable I've got. Testing in a day or two.

RomRaider supports J2534 pass-through interfaces, like OP2.0 is, but AFAIK only Tactrix is tested jet.
Maybe Mongoose to, but no VAG-Com CAN interface.

My VCDS-Interface needs a firmeware update to be able to support pass-through. If yours doesn´t and work, give a shoot in RomRaider forum.

We are looking for alternatives to Tactrix, witch supports J2534 pass-through..

 

[pitrack_1]

DPF regen period variances, U0073 error and Romraider

Covered in reverse order to the title

• Been a bit off colour this week, so haven't got to Romraider stuff yet.
• The U0073 error was tripped by a faulty plug connection. This is the interface's fault due to loose pins. I'll make another post showing the issue, outline some effects and my fix which may be applicable to others, e.g. Amboscott.
• Has anyone had any changes in their Regen period, in particular short ones not related to turning the ignition off? At least once I've had a regen being and exit within 2-3 minutes with the engine continuously running. A regen began whilst driving, I pulled over as soon as convenient and safe- within a couple of minutes. The screen shot took another couple of minutes (problematic screenshot on a Nexus 7 2013). Then, whilst at idle and just before pulling out, the regen stopped and I drove off with no regen happening. Nor did one return for quite some time. Anyone else have this happen? I'm wondering what quit it- maybe a thermal runaway cutout, the photo I took was the one in an earlier post with the high cat temp (755, peak 715) and extremely high exhaust temp (incorrectly calculated reported value).

 

[dpm]

was the engine at full operating temp during your short regens? If not, there are warmup strategies that may *look* like a regen.

 

[pitrack_1]

was the engine at full operating temp during your short regens? If not, there are warmup strategies that may *look* like a regen.

Yes it was warm, it was approx 10-15min drive in 20°C before this happened. And the my smile DPF Regen light came on.

This vehicle's performance during warm up has always been excellent, it just takes too long to start heating the cabin and the blue lamp to go off (~5km). Cold (meaning not below ~-5°C) starting and running has always been exemplary.

 

[gwk]

A little off topic, I realise, but have you guys used this:
Penrite Oil - A Better Class Of Oil

http://www.penriteoil.com.au/tech_pdfs/205 - DPF Cleaner March 2014.pdf

Does it work? Or just snake oil.

 

[R5oss]

This is what I use, Fuel Additive | Performance Additive | DIESEL POWER ECOMAX, but it is only part of the solution in minimising top end contamination and Cat/DPF problems.

See http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f160/2010-forester-no-boost-314065/index2.html#post3435082

 

[pitrack_1]

A fool and his money...

RomRaider supports J2534 pass-through interfaces, like OP2.0 is, but AFAIK only Tactrix is tested jet.
Maybe Mongoose to, but no VAG-Com CAN interface.

My VCDS-Interface needs a firmeware update to be able to support pass-through. If yours doesn´t and work, give a shoot in RomRaider forum.

We are looking for alternatives to Tactrix, witch supports J2534 pass-through..

I received my new cable a few days ago. I have been able to install the drivers and get it recognised as a J2534 pass-through cable (using VAG-COM).

Well, I thought it said J2534 pass-thru... haven't been able to get it to say that today! Maybe I was seeing things, or saw what I wanted to see...having said that, I did get two differing returns from the cable today (one serial pass through, the other no interface present). So the new cable won't do J2534

In the meantime, my current interface is on the blink (otherwise I've damaged my plug/socket ). I'm asking OBDKey to confirm their device will manage SSM over CAN, if so a Bluetooth one of those should cover both EOBD and SSM (but not simultaneously) for both PC and Android.

 

[pitrack_1]

Just tonight...

 

[pitrack_1]

Ford Territory AWD TDCi Auto

Had the pleasure of driving a Ford Territory AWD TDCi Auto on Friday for work- Canberra to the Central Coast and back, a 12 hour day all up. Makes an interesting comparison to the Forester.

The good: Sophisticated suspension tuning- far more controlled than the forester on-road, good fit and finish, more space than the Forester, well designed, very well hushed engine, comfortable and relaxing on a long trip.

The bad: low-rent interior plastics, questionable fuel economy, woeful driveline response, expensive diesel and AWD options.

Quick review
Fit and finish, spacious and comfortable cabin and good road manners make this a good touring family (or work) vehicle especially on long trip. The diesel engine’s so muted even standing outside the vehicle for a sub-zero start up (wash down the windows) I didn’t realise it was a diesel until I was told and looked at the badge! On the highway it cruises very nicely. Even the speedo is calibrated properly (note to Subaru).

But the engine and transmission combination...and I think a Subaru DPF regen gives sluggish response! This combination is positively glacial when prodded towards action. Ford took the Discovery 3 diesel, ripped the twin turbos off and stuck a single turbo on. Coupled with a slushbox auto, between the engine trying to spool and the auto trying to decide both where it’s at and where it should be, it’d be quicker to organise a public service committee and reach a decision. And the more you press the accelerator, the worse the deficit and delay becomes. I aborted at least one overtaking manoeuvre and one pull out intro traffic due to the lack of response. And I don’t think the passenger knew! It may be that flicking the auto to ‘sport’ (manual?) mode may help solve this delay, but that defeats the purpose of an auto. Oh, I don’t think it’s EURO5 either given the quantities of smoke I’ve seen out of the rears of these cars.

Questionable fuel economy (~9-10l/100km on the highway) and cheapo plastics are the other two issues. However if they could fix the drivetrain delay the car would be a winner. Fix all three issues, add EURO 5 and it’d be an absolute champion drive.

Not bad for something that first appeared in 2004.

 

[Tvilleguy]

Nice work on the Torque displays Pitrack... I've recieved my bt OBD adaptor yesterday and had a quick play with the default software on my android phone last night... everything works
I've just downloaded and setup the PID's and dashboard you supplied.... going to have a play with it later and see what this car of mine is doing. Will let you know how it goes :icon_wink:

 

[pitrack_1]

Torque Pro, BT adaptor and U0073 error

Tvilleguy,

just a heads up... I'm finding you can get a U0073 error that causes a "Christmas lights" effect, and the steering, performance and other systems may be affected.

The U0073 is a network error and can be cleared by Torque Pro.

Be careful how you start up the logging/monitoring. I'd suggest in particular you don't have Torque Pro running such that it tries to reconnect after a brief stop, without having slept/stopped your Android device and/or Torque. That is, close the lid/sleep the Android device or exit Torque before you restart the engine.

See this post (I've a few others lying around too, do a search for u0073) for a bit more info.

 

[Tvilleguy]

Thanks for the heads up... will keep that in mind.

So I used it today... all works very well! The thing that gets me though is this...
When I first got into the car and started it, it says my oil dilution is at 6% (which would be right... it's about 8500km since it's last service)... but the soot level was only at 14%. With not a lot of driving (went to the shops twice, which involves highway run and 80km zones) and it's jumped up to about 40%. I noticed that that the soot level rose VERY quickly when cruising with the RPM's at around 2400-2600rpm (approx 1% every 10 seconds), drop that down to lower revs (1800-2000) and it was a much slower rise. This goes against EVERYTHING that I've been reading about these subie diesels... ie... keep the revs up a bit, drive them harder, etc.
The other issue is the boost level... I had that logged on the trip home and it didn't seem to get over 7lb (I probably revved it up to about 4000rpm)... I thought these engines pushed a lot more air than that?
I'll be removing the EGR valve in the morning and giving it a proper clean... will be interesting to see how mucked up it is... will also try lubing the cog that the motor drives and see if that helps with anything. I'll take some pics and put it into a post when I do it.

 

[charliehorse]

I wonder how far off we from a "Force Regen" button for Torque pro :N_poke:

 

[pitrack_1]

Soot and boost levels

Tvilleguy,

Thanks for the heads up... will keep that in mind.

So I used it today... all works very well!

Great! :biggrin:

The thing that gets me though is this...
... but the soot level was only at 14%. With not a lot of driving (went to the shops twice, which involves highway run and 80km zones) and it's jumped up to about 40%. I noticed that that the soot level rose VERY quickly when cruising with the RPM's at around 2400-2600rpm (approx 1% every 10 seconds), drop that down to lower revs (1800-2000) and it was a much slower rise. This goes against EVERYTHING that I've been reading about these subie diesels... ie... keep the revs up a bit, drive them harder, etc.

This tallies exactly with how my car behaves. The soot level registered seems to increase with temperature. Twice I've seen once I stop the engine during a regen at ~30% soot, a cold (next morning) restart will register 0% soot. It can then be 10-14% by the end of the street, and increase at 1% per 2 seconds thereafter up to ~30-33%.

After that, it wobbles about a bit but gradually increases to the regen levels. Usually gets stuck in the 40-60% range, cold restarts result in some reduction but not much.

An uphill run during a regen drives it down quite quickly.

I suppose at least this way it's a sort of 'failsafe', i.e. when at working temp it's more likely to trip a regen rather than have it decrease the value when hot. As it gets really hot when regenning, I suppose this encourages a full burn-off as the soot value will also reduce with the reducing temp after the regen.

The other issue is the boost level... I had that logged on the trip home and it didn't seem to get over 7lb (I probably revved it up to about 4000rpm)... I thought these engines pushed a lot more air than that?

My too, exact same reading.

I'll be removing the EGR valve in the morning and giving it a proper clean... will be interesting to see how mucked up it is... will also try lubing the cog that the motor drives and see if that helps with anything. I'll take some pics and put it into a post when I do it.

Hmm, given what you've written elsewhere and the boost level afterwards, I think I'll be looking at things...

 

[pitrack_1]

DPF Regen "hexadecimal century"

Just hit the DPF Regen "hexadecimal century" at 256: PID rolls over from 00FF (255) to 0100 (256).

I forgot to take an image of the 00FF reading (255) but below is an excerpt from my logging confirming the rollover.

Device Time	DPF Active Regen Switch(on/off)	DPF Active Regen Count
40:48.7		255				255
40:49.2		255				255
40:49.8		0				256
40:50.3		0				256

Wonder what happens when I get to 65536 (FFFF)? Shouldn't take too long at the rate I'm going with regens! :biggrin:

 

[pitrack_1]

Velcro Mounted Nexus 7 w/ Torque Pro DPF displays

Here's how I've mounted my Nexus 7 2013 with the DPF readouts over the head unit in the dash. This position gives easy readability, easy reach and an uncanny fit for the space. The velcro has been attached to the Nexus' aftermarket case lid and to the dash top.

The unit is near to the dash console power outlet but not near the aux-in in the centre cubby (the Nexus makes a great MP3 player too). With the steering wheel controls I can still listen to the radio (my main medium) with minimum inconvenience. Auto-dimming by the Nexus 7 is very good, being only somewhat dim during bright sunlight.

If you're lucky I'll make up another thread/post on how to mount this. :smile:

 

[Amboscott]

Given that even a Freeway cruise (110 kph) is not enough load to burn off soot, how fast would you have to go to reduce it and avoid regens? The NT is a bit far to go for testing for me.