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2014 Forester 6 M/T
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So in my case the complete procedure was:
1. Engine decarbonization
2. DPF cleaning
3. ECU reset of DPF related values
4. Forced regeneration for calibration

Steps 3, 4 were made at Subaru service.

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Thanks guys. I have to take the car to subaru for windscreen replacement, so can ask them to do steps 3-4. I changed oil myself 1.500km ago so would prefer not to change it again...
My car was serviced at that dealer in Madrid by the previous owner. I have never been there so cannot give you my opinion. In other Spanish forums people talk nicely about Subaru Alpi, in Madrid too. However, the main feeling at least in Spain is that Subaru garages don’t look after clients and there are no proper mechanics.
 

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2010 Forester Diesel 6sp Manual
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Do you heard something about Subaru Gamboa in Madrid ?
Don't you have some private shop that specialises in Subaru? I know 2 shops in Latvia and third is a guy who has his own SSM. In this case Dealer would be the last place i would go.
 

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2012 SH Manual Diesel
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1) EGR closes during regen. This makes sense as you need as much air as possible to burn the diesel and raise the temp. EGR reduces available oxygen plus adds thermal mass through the inert /non-combustible gases, thereby reducing exhaust temp. However the throttle also closes which seems to be to control the fresh air flow
2) EGR isn't just used during cruise at temp, it's also used during warm-up to speed up warm-up.
My EGR valve is closed when cold, and then slowly opens up as the engine temp approaches normal operating temp.

When up to temp, it pretty much stays open at 75 deg angle. However only closes when on idle. Throttle is partially closed when cold, and then sits on 70 deg angle once engine is hot.

If I adjust my boost controller, it will effect the EGR angle on idle. I can have it open at about 20 deg, or completely closed.

EGR is also closed during DPF burn, but I’m pretty sure the throttle stays at 70 deg. I will have to pay more attention next burn.

Disregarding the EGR angle change with my boost controller, I wonder if there are different tunes amongst the Diesel engines out there. Hence, why some vehicles have more DPF and EGR problems than others.
 

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Don't you have some private shop that specialises in Subaru? I know 2 shops in Latvia and third is a guy who has his own SSM. In this case Dealer would be the last place i would go.
No really, just a few subarus in Spain. I know of a place with good reputation because a colleague with a subaru forester took if for dpf cleaning. I know they reset the ecu to his subaru, but not sure about forced regen... will phone them tomorrow. Thanks
 

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2010 Forester Diesel 6MT
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Discussion Starter · #446 ·
Dogs,

I haven't logged data for a while but might do that again to see what I get. esp as I will have a 'stone cold' start tomorrow (predicted 0C overnight in Canberra) and it was wanting to come up to a regen. Also see comments below in response and comparison to Mazda EURO4 diesel (which I believe has a similar Nippondenso injection).

My EGR valve is closed when cold, and then slowly opens up as the engine temp approaches normal operating temp.
Mine might do the same (i.e. closed when stone cold) but certainly is open during warm-up period. Unsure about my Mazda diesel, I'll have a look later.

When up to temp, it pretty much stays open at 75 deg angle.
I assume this is EGR... mine varies. But throttle stays put at "fully open" (I think 78 for me). Ditto my Mazda diesel (I think).

However only closes when on idle.
EGR varies, often open and varying at idle (ditto Mazda I think), and I have seen it cycle at idle in the Forester (when warm) with corresponding engine note change- I thought it might have been doing some internal test/recalib at the time.

Throttle is partially closed when cold, and then sits on 70 deg angle once engine is hot.
Ditto open for me when hot for Forester and Mazda too. I think it's similar partially open when cold, will check.

If I adjust my boost controller, it will effect the EGR angle on idle. I can have it open at about 20 deg, or completely closed.
I don't have that option :)

EGR is also closed during DPF burn, but I’m pretty sure the throttle stays at 70 deg. I will have to pay more attention next burn.
I'm pretty sure my throttle varies about. It fully opens and full boost is available under acceleration, but it all takes time to get there as the throttle is mostly closed under regen and I think this is the cause of the delayed boost under regen for the Forester.

I'll throw an opinion out that the throttle is closed (varied according to requirements) during burn to control, perhaps: NOx generation and DPF burn temp- preventing possible thermal runaway of the DPF by restricting available oxygen whilst not limiting the oxygen percentage and thermal mass of the exhaust gases through EGR. Although I wouldn't put it past the ECU to be able to use EGR during a burn under certain circumstances (which I may not have seen, let alone thought of).

Disregarding the EGR angle change with my boost controller, I wonder if there are different tunes amongst the Diesel engines out there. Hence, why some vehicles have more DPF and EGR problems than others.
I'm sure there are- not only by model/model year, but by region, fuel, local conditions/requirements, particular components fitted (running changes), transmission types, vehicle (Forester/XV/Outback), etc.
 

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2010 Forester Diesel 6sp Manual
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I may have been wrong about EGR action during regen, saying it opens during coasting. Today during regen I noticed that is at 0° all the time. But that's maybe under some conditions. (It was 10°C today) shound see what next regen will show.

Disregarding the EGR angle change with my boost controller, I wonder if there are different tunes amongst the Diesel engines out there. Hence, why some vehicles have more DPF and EGR problems than others
Id like to see your rom version i think it was "calibration ID" under adapter status in torque app. I wonder how your car doesn't throw a code for air mass, VNT position, difference in boost pressures... There is a myth that dealer is supposed to update cars ecu sofware when there is a new
 

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2014 Forester 6 M/T
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My personal experience is that EGR is closed during active regeneration, because there is no need to lower combustion temp.

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2012 SH Manual Diesel
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I wonder how your car doesn't throw a code for air mass, VNT position, difference in boost pressures... There is a myth that dealer is supposed to update cars ecu sofware when there is a new
I first fitted a Dawes Valve in early 2018, then switched to a GFB VNT controller.

I have been adjusting the settings ever since I put the Dawes Valve. At some stages, it was several times per drive, but at least on average 2 times per week.

I have adjusted from low boost to high boost settings, with slow spool and rapid spool rates, and any number of settings in between. There have been settings that have caused higher EGT, and ones that have caused a pre-ignition type combustion (can hear the pinging).

Not only have I caused more soot production (through trialling of all the different settings), I have also caused a significant number of Active Regenerations.

I also haven’t had the engine cover on, since putting on an oil catch can. So airflow through the intercooler (and whole engine bay), isn’t ideal. And I also had the engine under tray off, for almost a year (whilst I procrastinated over some other stuff I was doing).

It’s also had a few overheats; from dud radiator cap, and when trialling different thermostats and going through the difficulty of bleeding air out of system.

But, through all this... it has never thrown a code for engine parameters. The only error I get occasionally is a Com’s failure, if I leave Torque open between drives.

When the car was new, it did have an injector issue. When hot, it would occasionally cycle the injectors very fast, like a sewing machine. I would immediately shut down, wait a few minutes and then re-start. Sometimes it would persist for a few re-starts, others it would start as normal. During Service, the Dealer couldn’t find anything, or reproduce the symptoms. When I was certain, it was just the injectors, I left it running to see what would happen; it eventually shut itself down... but again, no code!

I kept mentioning it at every service, till the Warranty expired. They supposedly spoke to Subaru, but nothing was known about the issue (that they were willing to tell me). On two occasions they said that they carried out an Injector relearn procedure, which never seemed to rectify the issue. However, after sometime, the issue went away and it hasn’t happened since. I suspect somewhere nearing the end of the Warranty period, they did an update on the ECU.

The update, may not have been an improved tune; but maybe to relax any fault code triggers, so they don’t face any Legal/financial battles post Warranty. All my tinkering, has been post Warranty.

It would be interesting to see what would happen, if I could get one of the cars with all the soot/dpf/egr problems; would the symptoms continue to persist (even with modifications, and my driving style)? Which might suggest a different tune, or some inherent difference between vehicles (which would naturally give rise to the solution).
 

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2010 Forrester
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Pitrack,
Have you determined if the fuel quality is a major factor in the performance or lack of in the DPF system ? Have you tried any additives to help ?
My 2011 forester has been serviced at 5000 klms ( 6 months or so )by myself since I have owned it and usually has had a forced regen completed by using Ecutec's tools prior to the oil changes.
Recently I noticed a change in the oil dilution rate as I have been making a weekly round trip of 420 k's or so which on the first leg towards the end has a winding hill climb which I can drive at 3rd gear and holding 60 k's or so which takes approx 15 to 20 mins. The dilution rate has increased giving me a dilution warning and code at about 3000 k's previously 5000 k's or so. The vehicle only has 115,000 k's on the clock and has only ever requested a drive DPF burn once or twice early on in the learning to drive it period. As has been noted I can usually pick the regens while driving by the engine noise and a change in performance.
I have seen a change for the better in the average fuel economy during these trips as well but it may be due to the short trip count between filling and resetting the trip meters usually 28 ltrs or so at the completion of each first leg so roughly 28 ltrs every 420 k's or so with the fuel coming from a different servo than I have usually used.
I am now interested in setting up a monitor for monitoring the soot etc and was asking in another thread for advice on an obd unit to purchase. If you have a link to a current unit it would be greatly appreciated.
Pricing for deletion of the DPF seems to be between $1200 and $1400 with the physical work on the DPF to be done in house by me so just the remap for those dollars an option for the better in my opinion but pricy on a car its age with an engine no longer offered in Australia it seems.
Thank you for the info you have posted and your dedication to the topic. If Subaru only put in as much effort I believe there would be a lot more satisfied diesel Forester owners.
Cheers.
 

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2010 Forester Diesel 6MT
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Discussion Starter · #451 · (Edited)
Pitrack,
Have you determined if the fuel quality is a major factor in the performance or lack of in the DPF system ? Have you tried any additives to help ?
My 2011 forester has been serviced at 5000 klms ( 6 months or so )by myself since I have owned it and usually has had a forced regen completed by using Ecutec's tools prior to the oil changes.
Recently I noticed a change in the oil dilution rate as I have been making a weekly round trip of 420 k's or so which on the first leg towards the end has a winding hill climb which I can drive at 3rd gear and holding 60 k's or so which takes approx 15 to 20 mins. The dilution rate has increased giving me a dilution warning and code at about 3000 k's previously 5000 k's or so. The vehicle only has 115,000 k's on the clock and has only ever requested a drive DPF burn once or twice early on in the learning to drive it period. As has been noted I can usually pick the regens while driving by the engine noise and a change in performance.
I have seen a change for the better in the average fuel economy during these trips as well but it may be due to the short trip count between filling and resetting the trip meters usually 28 ltrs or so at the completion of each first leg so roughly 28 ltrs every 420 k's or so with the fuel coming from a different servo than I have usually used.
I am now interested in setting up a monitor for monitoring the soot etc and was asking in another thread for advice on an obd unit to purchase. If you have a link to a current unit it would be greatly appreciated.
Pricing for deletion of the DPF seems to be between $1200 and $1400 with the physical work on the DPF to be done in house by me so just the remap for those dollars an option for the better in my opinion but pricy on a car its age with an engine no longer offered in Australia it seems.
Thank you for the info you have posted and your dedication to the topic. If Subaru only put in as much effort I believe there would be a lot more satisfied diesel Forester owners.
Cheers.
KRIZ,

Firstly have a quick check of the turbo hoses for cracking/splits- the plastic pipe up from the turbo and the intercooler to manifold hoswe/elbow. These are known for breaking and will cause excessive regen through leaking boost causing overfuelling.

Have you determined if the fuel quality is a major factor in the performance or lack of in the DPF system ? Have you tried any additives to help ?
Yes, diesel quality or blend does seem to make some difference. Yes I've used additives, in particular the Penrite Enviro+ DPF cleaner which seems to help with regens. See this post earlier in my thread for an example of how I've used it to help rescue an abused DPF in conjunction with the ECUTek software to force a regen.
Recently I noticed a change in the oil dilution rate as I have been making a weekly round trip of 420 k's or so which on the first leg towards the end has a winding hill climb which I can drive at 3rd gear and holding 60 k's or so which takes approx 15 to 20 mins. The dilution rate has increased giving me a dilution warning and code at about 3000 k's previously 5000 k's or so....As has been noted I can usually pick the regens while driving by the engine noise and a change in performance.
I would suggest if you are getting to 10% oil dilution by 3-5k km (to trip the DPF light and PID code) then you have an issue somewhere with oil dilution. Assuming the oil dilution increase is only caused by regens and not some other currently publicly (at least by me!) unknown source then you shoul dwell get to the 12.5k service interval w/o tripping the oil dilution light- unless it hasn't been reset. The likely cause of the oil light coming on so quickly is excessive regens but you'll need to log some data to confirm that.
The vehicle only has 115,000 k's on the clock and has only ever requested a drive DPF burn once or twice early on in the learning to drive it period.
This seems to be exactly the age (klms-wise) by which induction hoses and/or pipes fail causing loss of boost post-MAF, meaning the car is overreading the amount of air getting to the combustion chamber, leading to over-fueling and excessive soot generation.
I am now interested in setting up a monitor for monitoring the soot etc and was asking in another thread for advice on an obd unit to purchase. If you have a link to a current unit it would be greatly appreciated.
Unfortunately the consensus seems to be the cheap clones online are mostly now just fraudulent rip-offs- not even clones! I was lucky to score a good 'un early on. Otherwise I can recommend a good name brand- not only do you get back-up and updates, but the software often supports the devices properly utilising their extra features and they also often read data a lot quicker.
The one I can recommend is the OBDLink Bluetooth unit. I have the OBDLink MX, which provides specialist access to Mazda/Ford (but not Subaru) and also is much faster (60-80 PID reads/sec vs 20PID reads/sec for the clone) . It is supported by Torque Pro and ForScan so if you have a Mazda/Ford as well or are likely to read one out, it is a good unit to have. Otherwise the OBDLink LX is much cheaper and will likely provide the fast access without the Mazda/Ford specific features. The OBDLink also claims to be a Bluetooth unit that will work with an Apple device- quite a rarity (and not tested yet by me). I leave my OBDLink MX plugged in permanently (albeit in my Mazda due to the extra features and use the clone in my Subaru) with the only bug I notice a tendency for the OBDLink MX to not recognise a connection if left alone too long- a quick unplug-replug fixes the issue.

As for software, for Android I can recommend Torque Pro (the paid version) with your additional PIDs which you can enter yourself. With that you can not only view but log data such as the DPF regen activity, DPF differential pressure, distance since last Regen, oil dilution, soot level, ash level, no. of regens, etc.

I have used both OBDLink MX and Torque Pro together and they work well with Torque Pro specifically recognising the OBDLink device and giving extra options (e.g. sleep mode, quicker polling).
 

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Cheers Pitrack,
I have already replaced the turbo to inter cooler pipe ( failed at 67,000 k's ) and the intercooler to inlet pipe at about 90,000 ks if i remember correctly. I sourced a better quality silicon hose for the cooler to inlet and used a genuine unit from the turbo to the cooler. I havent checked with soap for leaks for a while but i do get a slight whistle some times at low gear changes 2nd to 3rd but its not consistant. I remember there being a discussion over which clamps were better suited on the cooler to inlet pipe as i believe it was an issue earlier on. The vehicle has roughly reported the oil dilution warning at around the 5000 k or roughly 6 month mark since i started servicing it myself ensuring to reset the warning and clear the code if it registered with the ecutek tool i have. Ill chase up a unit though for monitoring as boost leaks can be tricky to find if they are slight.
Again cheers for the info .
 

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Hello,

This winter season I made a record of driving without active DPF regeneration. I made almost 4000km without active DPF regeneration!!! But now as the daily temperatures go up and sits above 15C, DPF behavior returned back to the"normal" . So DPF cleaning and engine decarbonization has great impact at winter, but almost zero at warm or hot season. It behaves a bit less erratic but only a bit...

One thing I currently observe during normal driving conditions is that EGR is reporting negative opening angle, sometimes. Does anybody else observed similar thing? I didn't remember something like this.


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Hi Svk...did you call Guiness Book for that record? Congrats! 😇 . About negative angle on EGR i have seen that too, but don't know when and why and about DPF...same ...winter - 800-1000km , below 15-20°C had 300-400km and 2 days ago was like 23° C and had like 200km between regen . Today i will make like 600km and is quite colder...i am courious how this will work.
 

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4.000km wow! I am in trouble then. Living in south Spain temperatures are rising quickly. Soon we will be above 30 everyday and 35-40-42 in Summer. After cleaning and resetting DPF the regen cycle seems to work better. I drove 300km with throttle load and soot moved down from 14 to 0% and stayed there (temperature was 0-7 degrees). Not driven much in the last month but will update as soon as I made a long trip. One colleague from Madrid is telling me that his subaru is behaving now in “summer mode” (regens down from 400km to like 180km). Our subarus are stock (egr unblocked...)
 

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2010 Forrester
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Does anyone have a file for the pid's for torque pro compiled Ill be setting up next week nd want sure if the list in this thread had been updated ( Pitrack's ). Thanks for the info in this thread it is helpful beyond what some would value !!
 

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I tried the PIDs for Torque Pro mentioned earlier in this thread. However all the indicators are empty on my phone.
I have an Impreza 2.0D which I suspect to be Euro 4, although I am not sure...
Is my ECU simply not exposing those PIDs?
 
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