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2014 Forester 6 M/T
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Hi ptr123,

I found a guy who has necessary HW and SW equipment and he made a lot of Subaru WRX engine tuning and some other Subaru including diesel. He found definition for RomRaider for my SJ MY14 Diesel, but he can't find files for ECUFLASH. Do you have any tips where to look? Is there a way how to flash those EGR tables via RomRaider?
 

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The process has the following steps:
1. Download the image from the ecu
2.Update the tables
3.Upload the modified image back to ecu.
For 1 and 3 you need ecuflash since romraider does not support flashing or reading the image from the ecu.
Updating the tables can be done via romraider too if you have the definitions. The process is pretty much the same as in ecuflash, the interface is very similar.
For the flashing itself you do not need the definitions only the binary rom file.
But your guy should know this if he has done previous tuning as he claims. Make sure he knows his stuff, because if he bricks you ecu, will be hard to revive.
 

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2014 Forester 6 M/T
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The guy I talked to about this just gave up. Maybe it's just better than bricking ECU. So I try to do a DPF cleaning and will see if it helps.
 

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I found video about throttle relearn/calibration. I guess it was made on dodge but works on subaru either.
I tried on my subaru outback 2012 diesel, and car felt different. Acceleration was much better. Mine is mechanical but acceleration became better from low revs.
It is simple you just have to turn the ignition on (dont start the car) then press acceleration pedal way to the floor and wait 15-20 seconds, then turn the ignition off and release the pedal. Sometimes I do it twice in a row, wait for two minutes and give it a try.
 

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I found video about throttle relearn/calibration. I guess it was made on dodge but works on subaru either.
I tried on my subaru outback 2012 diesel, and car felt different. Acceleration was much better. Mine is mechanical but acceleration became better from low revs.
It is simple you just have to turn the ignition on (dont start the car) then press acceleration pedal way to the floor and wait 15-20 seconds, then turn the ignition off and release the pedal. Sometimes I do it twice in a row, wait for two minutes and give it a try.
Thank you


Tapatalk kullanarak iPhone aracılığıyla gönderildi
 

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2014 Forester 6 M/T
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So finally I managed DPF cleaning, so far I see no difference in behavior. It is quite big disappointment 😕... According to the protocol I get from the company responsible for cleaning, DPF has reduced airflow more then 50%. Before cleaning the airflow was below 200 m3/hour and after cleaning it was 403 m3/hour. I haven't drive so much after cleaning so maybe car has to adapt... and of course in the service they reset DPF settings and engaged forced regeneration. For now I'm not sure if I have any other options as to learn to live with this...
 

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Sorry to hear that. This confirms my theory that the software is at fault here. I am now at 2700 km since last regen and all is good.
Pressure difference bellow 20 kpa at hard accel, around 1 kpa in idle. Egr still disabled from soft.
I think this engine has been not designed for euro 5, and subaru has fored the bill with that euro 5 compliance.
 

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SVK, i did a full cleaning of DPF 1 year ago i think. At that moment total ash was 85% with like 300 regen . After that the car drive the same , no behaviour change, only regen was happening at 600-800-1000km but just because i did that on winter time. I conclude is better not to read so much about DPF regen on Subaru and throw away any OBD adaptors😅😅 . About different behaviours at different temperatures i read also on other brands ...what i can say is i can't wait to winter coming. I want to do a full cleaning of intake, EGR , MAF and injectors but still can't find nobody who want to get mess with this - ODO is about 165k km and i think nobody did that before. After that i want to light a candle at the church and bother PTR to play with my ecu too. :)
 

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2010 Forester Diesel 6sp Manual
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At such large distances between regens I'd start to wonder if everything works as it should :D
Anyway, if you had 2 regens and distance since last one is almost 2k km, how is your oil dilution still so high? 1.7% is not much, i know, but i had one regen 350km ago, oil dilution has dropped from 1% to 0.2% by now.

New regen after 3850 km
Thats just sick, how was your soot accumulation behaviour? Steady climbing or jumping around whole period?
Keep in mind there still are cyclic every 6500km no matter what your soot is.
 

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Thats just sick, how was your soot accumulation behaviour? Steady climbing or jumping around whole period?
Keep in mind there still are cyclic every 6500km no matter what your soot is.
:), soot has been climbing steadily. There where occasionally some highway drives in full load, then got back to low levels. Then climbing again, then repeat the process.
Since then has done one more after 1300km. Now is due again after 500km, but the car has been in service for oil change, and they unmounted the pipe between inteecooler and turbo. The plastic one. Claimed that it had a crack, they glued it back, but it will be changed next time with a new one. I think the repair does not hold and the engine gets air that is not measured by the airmass sensor, so it thinks it runs rich, hence the lower regen intervals. I saw some pretty low numbers from time to time on the airmass sensor. This means the air is getting in somwhere else...
After change, i expect that will get back to 3k km intervals again.
I know about the 6.5k km mark. It is a safery measure, to ensure it gets a regen no matter what.
 

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SUBARU DPF likes winter time for sure. Everything is there, no modifications to ECU or EGR ;-)


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Under 10degrees celsius is less egr usage. It stays shut most of the time. As far as i know. So basicaly is the same as disabled. This is the wintwer secret :) my opinion.
 

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2014 Forester 6 M/T
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EGR isn't closed longer but it isn't opening that much as at summer time, this is at least my observation ;-)

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EGR isn't closed longer but it isn't opening that much as at summer time, this is at least my observation ;-)

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
The opening angle depends on more than one factor. One is intake air temp, other is exhaust gas temp. I think the coolant temp is considered also.
For cooler air there is not so much need to cool the exhaust more, so it stays less open. When engine is cold, it helps warming it up, by redirecting hot gases from the exhaust, back to the engine, this is why on startups stays wide open most of the time.
When exhaust gets too hot, it opens again to introduce less oxygen, therfore dropping the temp inside the combusrion. Lower burn temp has less nitrogen oxides but higher soot. This soot is the dpfs enemy.
This is my understanding of how it functions. However i do not know the precedence of the conditions of the operation. :)
 

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2014 Forester 6 M/T
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Yes exactly the same understanding as mine, so Subaru Diesel is designed for winter

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Same here, hit 1000km + again , as last winter. In the summer couldn't pass more than 300km. The only thing i am " afraid" to close the EGR is that in the summer the engine will run too hot , and that could cause damage.
@svkforester could you please upload here .csv file with extra PID you use for torque? Please remember me, you use a new DPF or cleanand resset the old one? Thanks!
 

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2014 Forester 6 M/T
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Same here, hit 1000km + again , as last winter. In the summer couldn't pass more than 300km. The only thing i am " afraid" to close the EGR is that in the summer the engine will run too hot , and that could cause damage.
@svkforester could you please upload here .csv file with extra PID you use for torque? Please remember me, you use a new DPF or cleanand resset the old one? Thanks!
Hi,

I made a DPF cleaning of original DPF, it was filled with the ash at around 55%. Extended pids csv file is attached ;-) but I have to change extension, so please correct it before use. View attachment extendedPIDsSubaru.csv.txt

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2010 Forester Diesel 6MT
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880 Posts
Discussion Starter · #400 ·
Brief update on my Forester

1) Still have the Forester. Had to replace the Viscous coupling (~$1400 I think all up) due to the 'hop-hop-hop' effect on turning- and just as it was ready to sell.
2) Regen distance variable currently, has been rather low, as low as 120 - 160km. May have to check for turbo pipe leaks. In particular it doesn't like hard acceleration- this builds soot quickly, again perhaps idicative of a boost leak (rich running), or perhaps a restricted DPF.
3) Summer vs winter: I can generally confirm what others have observed; EGR is generally active more in summer than in winter. It only sometimes activates in winter. EGR is also used to warm the engine. EGR is closed during regens. Summer seems to affect regen distances adversely, whether this is EGR, temp, fuel or other related, I am not sure. I have previously seen better results with 'winter' (Australian 'alpine' fuel) fuel in warmer conditions.
4) Not sure whether the reduced regen distance is also due to the saved, but perhaps damaged, DPF (See earlier posts from beginning of the year) because I did have at least one or two up around the 650km mark.
5) Watching the retuning at idle is entertaining- EGR, injector values in particular go all over the place.
 
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