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2010 Forester X Auto
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5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,
Mom's 2010 with nearly 200k has developed a starting issue. I've read thru a few posts here, so I'll try and address what's been mentioned as possible remedies. Nearly 50% of the time, when trying to start the car, the engine turns over quickly but does not start. It does not even try to fire. A few minutes later, fires right up. Seems independent of engine temperature. Sometimes completely cold starts in the morning are unsuccessful.
-There are no stored codes
-We've replaced the battery, cleaned cables
-Checked a few engine grounds
-Cleaned ignition switch - (more on this...)
-Used the 2nd key (which is basically new)
-Checked fuel tank, no debris
-Replaced fuel pump and filter
On cleaning the ignition switch - it and the key appeared very dirty. We sprayed some light silicone spray in the key-hole and cleaned the key. Immediately after doing this, the key she had been using since 2010 did not turn the lock cylinder at all. When comparing keys, the original is significantly worn. We located the 2nd original key, and this worked in the ignition. We then tried the original again, it worked after much fiddling, but then nearly got stuck in the lock cylinder, and took much fiddling to remove.

Any other issues to look for?

Thanks!
 

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2012 SH Manual Diesel
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788 Posts
Can you observe live data from ECU? e.g. fuel rail pressure etc.

Can you smell fuel coming through? i.e. exhaust

Checked for spark?

Check ignition relays? Can you hear them clicking on under dash?

the engine turns over quickly
Is this faster than normal?
 

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2010 Forester X Auto
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5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
-I do have a scan tool, I'll have to look at the readings closer - a bit overwhelming at first glance
-On fuel smell at tailpipe, will check on that.
-Regarding relays I just ordered part# 82501AL000 ($3.33x2) which I think are used for ignition and fuel pump (actually I think fuel pump relay is: 25232AA100 - $28)
-Used my spark tester yesterday, but of course it decide to start up.
-On engine cranking - no, it turns over at normal speed
This car is an hour drive from me, obviously makes it more difficult. Appreciate the tips, I'll run these checks when I swap out the two relays.
If all else fails, she'll probably get a new Crosstrek, which you guys call an XV.
Thanks
 

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2011 Forester X
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214 Posts
This seems to be a common issue on here. Mine will hesitate on occasion as well and I haven't been able to figure out any common denominator. I usually just hold the key in the start position longer or on the second try it'll start right up.

Also I would avoid using silicone in the ignition switch. I've heard a light spray of liquid graphite is best as it won't gum up the lock.
 

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2012 SH Manual Diesel
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788 Posts
Does the starting issue still occur with the second key?

With the old and new key in ignition, switched to the ‘On’ position; do any relays or dash lights flick on and off, if the key is jiggled (up, down, side to side, and in and out)?

See if scantool can show the immobiliser status i.e. is it detecting the coded chip in the key (correctly, and each time).
 

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2010 Forester X Auto
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5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
@Dogs New key did not fix the issue-

I went to look a the car last night - replaced relays for the fuel pump and ignition. Car started and ran, as it usually does, then failed to start for a very short period afterwards. We were just about to check for spark when it started right up again. Warmed it up, started it many times, without issue (maybe 20+ times). We wish it failed more often in order to diagnose. It seems to fail after being driven somewhere relatively far and parked for a while - you come out from shopping or whatever and it might not start. Try 10 minutes, later, it might, or might not. Pulled the crankshaft position sensor, connector looked fine, seemed to have the right resistance. If this were failing, I would assume it would sometimes cause an issue while running, instead of just when starting (the car runs like new otherwise). Another item I was considering, the plastic ignition switch assembly in the steering column ($40)? I suggested she may want to take it to an actual dealer instead of the local auto shop. Perhaps they'll have better diagnostic tools and specific experience than the local shop.
 

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2012 SH Manual Diesel
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788 Posts
Is the car manual or auto transmission? Check any switches that are required for start up e.g. brake, clutch, inhibitor etc.

Do all the accessories in the car, work as per normal; when the key is inserted and switch to ‘Accessories’?

Are there many keys or ornaments attached to the main car key? i.e. does it have considerable weight? Heavy keyring will cause unnecessary wear on key barrel/switch.

Are there any other car keys attached to the main car key? Can interfere with immobiliser.

When the second car key was tested, was the first key in the car as well, attached to keyring, or left at home inside the house? Can interfere with immobiliser.

When the second car key was tested, was that just briefly at home, for an extended trip, or is it now being used all the time, as the primary key? Test second key over several days, ensuring no other car key is present, that can interfere with immobiliser.

Test ignition switch as per attachment.

Does the immobiliser light on the dash, flash with key removed? Does the light go off when key is inserted, switched to ‘Accessories’, switched to ‘On’, or during start?

Using scantool check status of immobiliser. May be an intermittent delay in registering the key code.

After a failed start, when attempting to re-start; switch off ignition, and remove key; wait a few seconds, and for immobiliser light to flash. Then insert key; switch to ‘On’; wait a few seconds (to allow immobiliser to detect key code); then attempt a start.
9E275A2E-12B8-48A6-89BD-04FDF2C2F329.jpeg
 

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2010 Forester X Auto
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5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited by Moderator)
@Dogs -It's an auto
-Car has a history of wipers and radio of intermittently not turning on. To fix, ignition switch replaced in 2019 by local shop
----------- I swear yesterday I replicated this failure for a moment, radio and wipers didn't work, then they did.
-Car keychain is/was relatively heavy, several keys, brass portion, pen knife. We removed all the extra keys, still probably heavier than average.
-No other car keys attached to keychain
-2nd car key is now only one used, the first (heavily worn) key is now away from the car, in the house. Problem persists as it did with worn key.
-Will have my dad conduct the tests. Thanks again @Dogs
 

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2010 Forester X Auto
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5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Update - issue appears to have been fixed! 3 relatively inexpensive parts replaced at once at once, no problems since:
- Ignition switch
- Crankshaft position sensor
- Camshaft position sensor

Thanks all! We're aiming for well over 200k now.
 
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