[vl1969]

Hello everyone. As the subject says , I am seeking an honest opinion on how I should price my Forester for sale/trade-in.

Well traid in value I can only agree or not on, but if I was to try to sell it what may be a reasonable figure to expect?

Here is the stats:
2010 Forester Premium 2.5X
All stock. No aftermarket changes.
Roughly 160k on the clock right now. A little less but by the time I will be ready to sell it maybe true or even more. At least 80% highway mileage.

Original owner.
All recals are done
New a/c last year
New radiator last year
New spark plugs/wires/coil last year.
Firestone all-seasons tires,changed 2 years ago should still be in good condition.
Car was never in major accident.
I had a rear passenger door dented by someone on Honda pick-up backing into it on parking lot. Fixed
A few small dent and scratcheshere and there by people dinging it with the doors or shopping carts. I tried to clean and spray touch-up but not a pro so you can see it close up.
Interior is in good condition. I always use seat covers and protectors so seats hold up well.
At this point I'm time there is no mechanical issues present. I do all my repairs and maintenance at my dealer with a few exceptions being my tires, and a few oli changed. As well as air conditioning was done by my mechanic. Although work the price I might as well go to the dealer. But aftermarket AC unit turned out to better than OEM.

Now, based on all of this I went to KBB and price it traid in and private sale using "good" as condition. It seams to fit better than fair as denoted on the sight. But dealer said they always use fair cindition.

Please chime in and tell me if I am wrong or do my reasoning have merits.

Thanks. Vl.

 

[adc]

Were the timing belt idlers tensioner and water pump placed. How about gaskets. Any sign of leakage?

 

[vl1969]

Timing belt was replaced @ 105k at the dealer as per manual. Not sure about water pump and tensioners. Need to dig through my receipts if can find. I do all my maintenance at dealer and my local dealer is pretty good. I can trust them most of the time. I did the transmission and differentials fluids flush and refill last year. All car was checked as usual. No issues with gaskets anywhere where found. Mech snow me a small bleed on power steering tank tube and told me to keep an eye on flued level, but I have been driving it for over 6 month since and level is unchanged so no leaks. Verry little rust also. I try to wash the under carriage after major snow storms driving. To keep the sult off as much as possible. I am in North NJ so we do have snow and use salt on roads, but this is not my first dance. Used to leave in NY for 15 years.

But as with any 10yo cars there is some rust spots here and there.
I would say based on my mechanic reactions and my past experience the car is in good mechanical condition.
If my daily commute was not 400+ miles a week I would probably drove the car until 250k with no issues except normal wear and tear.
This was my first suby and I love it.
But practicality take precedence.

 

[adc]

You need to run the vehicle asap. The ac will loose its charge if it isn't run.

 

[Wagonation]

Private sale will get you more for a good car in good condition. Especially a Subaru in a snow area. Rust spots will lower that though as used car buyers are trying to delay the inevitable in the salt belt.

Dealer trade in will generally get you less but what is the sale price of the new car? It's harder to figure out with a trade so I usually negotiate the price of the new car separately. I also tend to drive my old cars until they aren't worth much.

What were the numbers from KBB and NADA? Good and fair, sell vs trade? That should give you a good idea of it's book value. Your car sounds 'good' since mechanically it is sound. All of the PS racks leak at that age, lol. You can also look at auto trader, CL and all for comparable cars in north Jers/NY. Maybe you can beat it but book value is a very good starting point and is used by everyone.

What are you buying and did you price it around? That should give you an idea of it's cost. Two separate transactions really, or it should be thought of that way.

No one can tell you you are getting a good deal without all the information. Maybe they write it that they are giving you a great deal on one but not the other if you trade but it's the net that matters. GL with the car buying process. It's a pain.

 

[sneefy]

KBB/Edmunds/NADA are a place to start. Also check Craigslist, Autotrader, Carsoup for comparable vehicles and see what they go for.

In snowy regions, used Subarus in good mechanical condition can demand a premium.

 

[vl1969]

You need to run the vehicle asap. The ac will loose its charge if it isn't run.

I run it every other day. It is my daily driver. And even now when I work for home I still need to do some errands and stuff.
I am currently shopping for replacement and untill I find one I will drive it.

 

[vl1969]

Private sale will get you more for a good car in good condition. Especially a Subaru in a snow area. Rust spots will lower that though as used car buyers are trying to delay the inevitable in the salt belt.

Dealer trade in will generally get you less but what is the sale price of the new car? It's harder to figure out with a trade so I usually negotiate the price of the new car separately. I also tend to drive my old cars until they aren't worth much.

What were the numbers from KBB and NADA? Good and fair, sell vs trade? That should give you a good idea of it's book value. Your car sounds 'good' since mechanically it is sound. All of the PS racks leak at that age, lol. You can also look at auto trader, CL and all for comparable cars in north Jers/NY. Maybe you can beat it but book value is a very good starting point and is used by everyone.

What are you buying and did you price it around? That should give you an idea of it's cost. Two separate transactions really, or it should be thought of that way.

No one can tell you you are getting a good deal without all the information. Maybe they write it that they are giving you a great deal on one but not the other if you trade but it's the net that matters. GL with the car buying process. It's a pain.

Wagonation, I am not really asking for a figure here. Just if my approach and thinking is sound. I was hitting the KBB and Edmunds and think that what they describe as fair condition is a car that has an above average damage/defects and/or an existing mechanical issues that trully need to be addressed before it can be driven safely. I think my car, regardless of high mileage should be considered in at least good condition.
As far as I know, based on my dealings with my dealer mechanic and my local mechanic, except for cosmetics my car is safe to drive as is. All drive train is in good shape for it's age and mileage. And have been kept like that from the start.
I commute over 80 miles a day 5 days a week. I can not afford to get stranded on my way to work or from work. I also can not be without a car. I can not get to work any other way. No publick transportation there. So if I detect even a small irregulariti in cars sounds or behavior I am calling mechanic and ask if I have something to worry about.


As for getting the new car, well I am nogitiating an OTD price first and than ask trade-in value. So far this was the first dealer I got to this point.

 

[vl1969]

I am closing this thread as I got my new vehicle.
After all said and done, I bought a 2020 RAV4 hybrid XLE late September last year. 🙂

Total OTD was 32.5
Dealer trade in for my 2010 Forester was 1000.
I know they low-ball me and I could have gotten a couple of K more, but considering there is a pandemic going on , I don't want to deal with private sale hustles. If I knew the future I would have kept it as my fathers 2016 fozy was totaled mid October so he could have used it, but...

Thanks everyone for your help and good advice.