Subaru Forester Owners Forum banner

1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
2009 Impreza Diesel
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey Guys and Girls, I've got an issue with my Subaru Impreza Diesel EE20 2010 engine. It seems to struggle on acceleration quite violently jolting the car!
What's strange is it doesn't do this all the time, but only when I think the engine DPF is regening. I've attached a video in the below link, hopefully, one of you smart cookies can tell me what's wrong with it!

Edit: If anyone has any problems viewing the video, let me know!
Thanks y'all
 

·
Registered
2010 Forester Diesel 6MT
Joined
·
850 Posts
I couldn't hear anything from the video and the camera shake didn't help. But if during this issue the car goes "thunk-thunk-thunk-thunk-thunk" etc. on the order of approx 1/2sec between thunks, then this may be similar to an issue with the 2010 Forester diesels. Ours only occurred once or twice very early on in its' life. Is yours a EURO5? If so, then there should have been a software update to fix the issue- at least I think this was the fix.
 

·
Registered
2009 Impreza Diesel
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Hello and thanks for replying.. The car doesn't make any strange noises as such, but that's me holding the camera still and you'll see the rev meter bouncing when I'm trying to accelerate just after 2.500RPM. I believe mine doesn't have the DPF on / off setting in torque which make it a Euro 4 engine if I'm not mistaken as it was registered in November 2009 making it a "59 plate" here in the UK.

The car's done 70,000miles or 112,000km's if that makes any difference...

Thanks again!
 

·
Registered
MY09 XSn 2.0 Diesel 6MT
Joined
·
967 Posts
Earlier this year I had a mammoth session sorting a long standing problem with apparent fuel starvation. It was very intermittent and felt similar to hitting the rev limiter, but anywhere between 2500 - 3500 rpm. What appeared to fix it was a sticking pivot on the turbo variable nozzle linkage. Access is very difficult, but not impossible while the turbo is still fitted.

I was amazed at just how clean the exhaust was from the cylinders through the turbo and into the DPF. There was absolutely no clogging / restriction of the turbo vanes. By contrast the EGR valve was well and truly clogged up.
 

·
Registered
MY09 XSn 2.0 Diesel 6MT
Joined
·
967 Posts
The 1st two pics show the Vacuum Actuator, although not the actual pivot that sticks. It may be possible to spray WD40 (or equiv), which needs the under tray to be removed.
As for the EGR valve, remove the engine cover and the intercooler. There are clear photos available somewhere in this Forum, but I can't remember where :crying:.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/VGcqrGHwpwhqeJmDA

PS: let me know if this link works.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
15,398 Posts
@R5oss post above describes what needs to be done i.e. "It may be possible to spray WD40 (or equiv), which needs the under tray to be removed.
As for the EGR valve, remove the engine cover and the intercooler."

So the first part is under the vehicle and the second part is accessed from above.
 

·
Registered
2011 Forester 2.0 diesel manual 6 speed
Joined
·
82 Posts
Hi all, i have the same issue. 140k kilometers. Anywhere between 1800 and 2700rpm the engine would jitter and the rev counter will jump all over the place very fast. Definitely not normal acceleration. This only happens if i accelerate slowly. If i punch the gas pedal then it will accelerate strong and fast without issues.

Please tell me Rossk12345 have you been able to fix the issue? What was the cause? Are there any other ideas? And also, English is not native to me, i don't understand at all what "sticking pivot on the turbo variable nozzle linkage" means. Is it possible somebody could explain it plainly and maybe with a yt video/diagram or something? Is it a possible DIY job?

Thanks so much for taking the time to read and help. This problem is driving me crazy.
 

·
Registered
2009 Impreza Diesel
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Hi all, i have the same issue. 140k kilometers. Anywhere between 1800 and 2700rpm the engine would jitter and the rev counter will jump all over the place very fast. Definitely not normal acceleration. This only happens if i accelerate slowly. If i punch the gas pedal then it will accelerate strong and fast without issues.

Please tell me Rossk12345 have you been able to fix the issue? What was the cause? Are there any other ideas? And also, English is not native to me, i don't understand at all what "sticking pivot on the turbo variable nozzle linkage" means. Is it possible somebody could explain it plainly and maybe with a yt video/diagram or something? Is it a possible DIY job?

Thanks so much for taking the time to read and help. This problem is driving me crazy.
Hello, my issue was under hard acceleration and i suspect that it is due to the injectors! However, I did have another issue with the EGR valve sticking but that made the engine warning light go on etc. I don't know if your issue could be the same! In order to fix it, you'd need to remove the engine!
 

·
Registered
2011 Forester 2.0 diesel manual 6 speed
Joined
·
82 Posts
So you didn't fix your issue yet? Sorry i didn't understand why i need to remove the engine? :) For injectors?
 

·
Registered
2009 Impreza Diesel
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
So you didn't fix your issue yet? Sorry i didn't understand why i need to remove the engine? :) For injectors?
My original issue was the judder around 2,500rpm which I highly suspect is the injectors, but only under harsh acceleration. It drives fine normally.
I also had another issue with the EGR valve which I have recently sorted.
 

·
Registered
2010 Forester Diesel 6MT
Joined
·
850 Posts
Hi all, i have the same issue. 140k kilometers. Anywhere between 1800 and 2700rpm the engine would jitter and the rev counter will jump all over the place very fast. Definitely not normal acceleration. This only happens if i accelerate slowly. If i punch the gas pedal then it will accelerate strong and fast without issues.
We had this issue early on with our 2010 diesel. It was solved by the dealer and I believe it was a software update. I'd suggest you check which ECU software version you have and update to the latest for your model.
 

·
Registered
2011 Forester 2.0 diesel manual 6 speed
Joined
·
82 Posts
Hi, thanks for your reply, but a software issue out of nowhere? The car is 8 years old. Why would it suddenly have a software issue?

Anyway, today i did a little digging around the engine, took of the top mounted intercooler and found that the intercooler pipe running directly to the EGR valve has a huge crack in it. I suspect this is the issue.
The part is fairly expensive, about $100 and also hard to find so i may have to order from ebay. Those seem to be cheaper but are most likely not genuine. I'll check tomorrow. For the time being i used duct tape to seal the crack :D

The EGR valve i cleaned, it wasn't that dirty really, but the inlet manifold is full of gunk, black soot, however you want to call it. Looks really bad. I think i will have to take it off at some point and clean the hell out of it. Tomorrow i can post some pictures if anyone's interested.
 

·
Registered
MY09 XSn 2.0 Diesel 6MT
Joined
·
967 Posts
Astral, please post your pics. I don't think that the IC connects to the EGR valve, it feeds into the plenum chamber where the ERG also feeds. So this is where the mix of soot & oil produces the evil gunge, and lots of issues.
 

·
Registered
2011 Forester 2.0 diesel manual 6 speed
Joined
·
82 Posts
Here are the pics: https://app.box.com/s/t10fahoepm6af9kpy78gkt0i0txhnvrv

Maybe i got my terminology wrong but the IC is connected to the EGR directly via this cracked pipe and then after EGR comes the plenum chamber (not the inlet manifold as i wrote previously, my bad).

Edit: I seem to have mixed up the EGR valve with the throttle body. Sorry, new to all this.
 

·
Registered
2010 Forester Diesel 6MT
Joined
·
850 Posts
Hi Astral,

good spotting of the crack. We also had one of our induction hoses crack, maybe the same one (can't remember).

If you can find a good aftermarket silicone one that fits it may be better and cheaper.
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top