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2009 Forester XT
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Discussion Starter #61
I used a cut portion of a paper clip for the jumper, nice and tight!


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2003 Forester AT
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Code:
int buzzPin =  3;    //Connect Buzzer on Digital Pin3

void setup()

{
  pinMode(buzzPin, OUTPUT);
}

void loop()
{
  digitalWrite(buzzPin, HIGH);
  delay(1);
  digitalWrite(buzzPin, LOW);
  delay(1);
}

This is the example sketch DFRobot gives with the device on their Wiki Page. I think you might be right, there might be a difference in the coding for my buzzer. From the descriptions and example sketches on this page it looks like I picked up an active buzzer. I think I'll try to modify the sketch to suit that, though ultimately like you said I might leave the buzzer off the finished product.

Not a bad idea on the paperclip, I might make my own jumpers as well.
 

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MY03 Forester X
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You can use the onboard LED and make it blink instead of using a buzzer to help debug.
 

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You can use the onboard LED and make it blink instead of using a buzzer to help debug.
Oh okay awesome, thanks @Hired-Goon . I'll give that a shot.

@skirbykat , now that I've slept and think more about that paperclip, what are the chances the paperclip is slightly less conductive than the other materials used and maybe it's causing your second CANBUS board to be slightly out of sync or something like that? Seems like a bit of a long shot but with it being a communication pin instead of just power etc maybe it's worth swapping out to see?

Getting an alignment tomorrow and I'll check out the yaw sensor when I hopefully get a bit of free time before the new year. Trying to optimize all the other potential issues (will also clean and add dielectric grease to the rear diff sensor, although I'm not convinced that is a factor at all in this case), and then of course get the Arduino working.
 

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Discussion Starter #66
Thanks for the thought, but I confirmed they are no good by troubleshooting each board individually on pin 10, they wouldn't communicate. I've since purchased some new but different hardware, and successful testing so far. I'll share more details once I've tested more in the car.

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Ah, very good. Shame that happened, I'd be curious to know what went wrong but I suspect we won't find out. Hope you're able to get it working without incident, keep us posted.
 

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Thanks for the thought, but I confirmed they are no good by troubleshooting each board individually on pin 10, they wouldn't communicate. I've since purchased some new but different hardware, and successful testing so far. I'll share more details once I've tested more in the car.

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Did you get yours sorted?

I got my buzzer working, which has helped, but I still have problems. For some reason the top board (SAS side) won't initialize apparently. If I remove
Code:
canInit (CAN_AngleSensor, "AngleSensor")
I get the startupOK beep. I even modified that in my sketch to be 9 buzzes to be 100% sure of what was what. But when I either have canInit for both boards, or just for the AngleSensor, I get the 3 long buzz error tone after 5, 10, and 15 failed attempts to initialize.

I have the serial ports and CANBUS terminals in their original orientations thus far, so currently I'm using header to space the two CANBUS boards apart and remove that variable - no change. Both boards have the power LED illuminated just fine.

I've also checked continuity at the broken off pin 10 on the top board (angle sensor board) to pin 8 at the arduino header, and it seems to be fine, so I don't think my jumper is the problem like I'd previously hoped.

What else can I test to figure out what's going on? Is this just a bad DFrobot board??


EDIT:

It's not any of the boards individually, nor the jumper pins. I had the thought to remove the bottom board and just plug the top CANBUS board directly into the Arduino, then remove canInit for CAN_Car, thus only trying to initialize the board that's plugged in. I get my full 9 buzzes = successful boot up.

In the photo below, what is the 6 pin header directly to the left of the screw for the DB9 port? Reading about it, I thought it was just an alternative programming header. The bottom of each CANBUS board has a header to connect to the Arduino, but the tops of the boards only have solder joints. Is it problematic that the top board is not connected to one or more of those six pins? Looking at the boards, that's the only thing I can think of that would be different by plugging the top board directly into the Arduino vs passing through the bottom CANBUS board. Skirby, are these the six pins you mentioned soldering? If so, how exactly did you connect them? If not, what six pins were you mentioning?

 

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Discussion Starter #70
Yes, I however soldered pins on, the cheap/hard way, instead of waiting for a stacked header order on Amazon. Another possible rush job mistake on my part. Truth be told, I ordered parts, modified them all up, to package up for a final product, etc, etc , never once connecting, testing, learning how it all worked. Result - busted boards.

Side note, something I've encountered:
Make sure all lines you would like to print from the sketch are "uncommented" -In other words, while playing around and troubleshooting, I keep finding myself loading the saved sketch from Hired Goon, with "data" or " initialized ok "not uncommented by me for printing.

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That rectangle 6 pin header is required for the CAN board to work, I bought this and replaced the header on the MIDDLE board to pass the signal on to the top board.
Ahhh, that explains it. Thanks! I'll pick one of those up and get it soldered on, hopefully that does the trick.


Yes, I however soldered pins on, the cheap/hard way, instead of waiting for a stacked header order on Amazon. Another possible rush job mistake on my part. Truth be told, I ordered parts, modified them all up, to package up for a final product, etc, etc , never once connecting, testing, learning how it all worked. Result - busted boards.

Side note, something I've encountered:
Make sure all lines you would like to print from the sketch are "uncommented" -In other words, while playing around and troubleshooting, I keep finding myself loading the saved sketch from Hired Goon, with "data" or " initialized ok "not uncommented by me for printing.

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Thanks!

I fall victim to that a lot of times. That's been one of the benefits of you two helping piece this together this time vs just following a how-to. Often if one thing changes in a how-to (new generation/iteration of a product is not the same, etc) the instructions are no longer fully applicable. I think I've learned more up-front in this situation because of the need to piece things together. The issue has also forced me to learn more about the steering rack install etc. I hired someone to do that and a few other jobs, whereas I normally do my own work. It's nice to not have the stress of the install, but it introduces a new kind of stress created by the unknown. My clutch feel isn't as good after he flushed it. I'm suspicious he didn't remove the slave cylinder, which is supposedly a must on my car due to the location of the bleeder nipple. If I'd done it myself, I'd know where to start looking vs playing the guessing game.

Good call on the commented out sections, I'll have to look at that so I can use the serial output to help as well.

--------
All:

Where I removed the power plug port to solder my buck converter in, I also ran ground to the third pin. I thought grounding that pin told the board that the power plug is supposedly "plugged in." Maybe I misread this, I don't know if it ultimately matters. So far I've just powered off USB but I'll keep an eye out if the board doesn't seem to function off 7v power when the time comes.

I did test my yaw/G sensor and other than two of the values being inverted from what I expected (my manual said rearward tilt should be negative value, but it was the opposite), everything seemed to check out on both axes of the G sensor. The yaw rate is what I wasn't so sure about, and I can't find any way to actually test that. I'm struggling to even find info on a typical output range. What I was finding was I'd get something like 8 degrees/sec quickly darting to one side, then it would be like 123 in the other direction, which does not seem right to me. I'd expect a similar value, presumably also positive(?), regardless of direction. I think I might order a used one just to see if the behavior changes at all. It could be my SAS is a little off and that sensor is a little off, and together it's wonky enough to trigger VDC.

Thanks for the help to both of you. As I learn more about these things I'm getting more interested in potentially making the other device I'd mentioned (DCCD/VDC settings).
 

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You guys are awesome. I'll do more testing during my commute tomorrow, but I think everything is working. Lock to lock I'm now showing close to 523 to -523 lock to lock +/- a few degrees, which is spot on for a 15% increase from what I had before. I took a quick test drive and did not have VDC intrusion in the typical curves. I really appreciate all the help, without you guys I would have to drive with traction control disabled all day every day.

I ended up disconnecting the fan for now (noisy), but my buck converter is mounted outside the box so I think passive cooling should be adequate? I have several slots cut for wires plus the hole for the fan.

@skirbykat did you get your box working?
 

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Discussion Starter #73
@murfnamedsmurf sadly, I still land in last place lol. So glad you got through it all, but I'm still going through small testing projects. First off, after determining the shields were done, I decided to downsize to the Arduino pro mini and smaller can bus shields. Different adapters needed, but shields are communicating properly. Overall, I'm looking to reduce the overall size of the circuitry for better packaging. Testing reveals a big question for you guys....

The SAS vs Car VDC.....

Is the connector layout in the car (in your domestic market)

a) red/blue closest to steering wheel the SAS?

b) red/blue closest to steering wheel the VDC?

I assume the connection towards the steering wheel would be SAS, but altering figures resulted in a CEL for can bus communications. Could be a good thing, although not sure.

Did this seem backwards to you, or do I have something wires wrong?

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@murfnamedsmurf sadly, I still land in last place lol. So glad you got through it all, but I'm still going through small testing projects. First off, after determining the shields were done, I decided to downsize to the Arduino pro mini and smaller can bus shields. Different adapters needed, but shields are communicating properly. Overall, I'm looking to reduce the overall size of the circuitry for better packaging. Testing reveals a big question for you guys....

The SAS vs Car VDC.....

Is the connector layout in the car (in your domestic market)

a) red/blue closest to steering wheel the SAS?

b) red/blue closest to steering wheel the VDC?

I assume the connection towards the steering wheel would be SAS, but altering figures resulted in a CEL for can bus communications. Could be a good thing, although not sure.

Did this seem backwards to you, or do I have something wires wrong?

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I don't blame you for that. I'll eventually post up some photos of my install, it truly couldn't have been any tighter. If I do work on a "settings saver" I'd be interested in the mini modules.

Have a look at the photos attached, and ignore the fact that they've already been tied into my harness. The female connector at the bottom is on the SAS side. The harness is normally kind of kinked over / doubled over near that plug for some reason. The male connector that you have to slide out of the other connector is actually the car side of the harness. Seems kind of counter-intuitive / backward from what I'm used to.

Car side yes, red and blue are the CANBUS wires. SAS side, it's actually white and blue, at least at this harness. If you're trying to tap wires more proximal to the sensor itself, it might be different.

See the photo where I've got the two connectors plugged in. Working left to right:
  • wire 1 (furthest left) is CAN L (blue for both harnesses)
  • wire 2 is CAN H
  • wire 3 is sensor ground connection
  • wire 4 is sensor power
So for my scaler harness, I connected female red to male green/yellow and female black to male black (essentially making an extension harness for power/ground going to the sensor). Here's where it could get confusing.
  • Since my male connector is receiving signal from the SAS female connector, male connector blue goes to input board CAN L. Male connector red goes to input board CAN H.
  • Since my female connector sends my modified signal to the car's male connector, female connector blue goes to output board CAN L. Female connector white goes to output board CAN H.
I took a number of photos toward the end, I'll be glad to share in more detail if it helps. Also, if you have wired CAN L and CAN H correctly but you're just not sure which side is SAS vs which side is car, you should be able to reverse pin 8 and pin 10 within the sketch (change which board is input and which board is output, basically) to test if that's the issue?

For what it's worth, I don't know how I would've done this without getting the harness plugs from a pull-a-part yard, everything was just too tight. I also used add-a-fuses rather than tapping the wires hired goon tapped. I still used ACC and IGN, I just like using this method whenever possible.

If you do want those OEM harnesses but can't get ahold of them, let me know and I'll see if I can get another set.
 

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For clarity, this is where the SAS connector is on my car. The junker I pulled my spare harness from was also an impreza, so it was around the same spot. Not sure if it's the same for your Forester.

The top part is the female connector coming from the SAS. It's the very end of the SAS harness you see pictured when you google subaru steering angle sensors. I already think the female connector being on that side can be confusing, and when you look at the orientation of that plug it's even worse in my opinion.

The bottom part is the male connector that goes to the car. This thing is part of one huge wiring harness - it's called something like interior bulkhead harness and it feeds a lot of different things.

In many places, the CANBUS wires are wound around each other like a double-helix, but I'm not sure that's the case on the SAS harness.

528143
 

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Hey guys,

I just had a 2011 STI steering rack fitted to my 2011 Forester SH and am now encountering the SAS/VDC issue. I've disconnected the yaw sensor as a temporary fix but would like to pursue installing the arduino signal interceptor. Before I even start I just want to throw out a huge thank you to hired-goon, murfnamedsmurf and skirbykat for creating/documenting this process as much as you guys have. Very clever stuff!! I have no experience with arduinos but I'm a bit of a tinkerer so I'm very eager to jump in and use this as a learning project.

For starters, I've found a company in the UK who appear to sell the arduino box as a complete unit, including the OEM connectors. I've contacted them to see if this is still a service they provide. That would save me the hassle of ordering and sourcing all the components individually.

Failing that I'll go ahead and order the components in a few weeks time as I'm currently in the middle of shifting to a new city in New Zealand. No doubt I'll be running into my own issues so if you guys could possibly continue to monitor this thread in any capacity I'd really appreciate it!

Thanks again
Monolith NZ
 

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Discussion Starter #77
Hey guys,

I just had a 2011 STI steering rack fitted to my 2011 Forester SH and am now encountering the SAS/VDC issue. I've disconnected the yaw sensor as a temporary fix but would like to pursue installing the arduino signal interceptor. Before I even start I just want to throw out a huge thank you to hired-goon, murfnamedsmurf and skirbykat for creating/documenting this process as much as you guys have. Very clever stuff!! I have no experience with arduinos but I'm a bit of a tinkerer so I'm very eager to jump in and use this as a learning project.

For starters, I've found a company in the UK who appear to sell the arduino box as a complete unit, including the OEM connectors. I've contacted them to see if this is still a service they provide. That would save me the hassle of ordering and sourcing all the components individually.

Failing that I'll go ahead and order the components in a few weeks time as I'm currently in the middle of shifting to a new city in New Zealand. No doubt I'll be running into my own issues so if you guys could possibly continue to monitor this thread in any capacity I'd really appreciate it!

Thanks again
Monolith NZ
Welcome! I'm glad this project is getting more and more attention / interest. It will surely help others in their searching for solution until it becomes more mainstream.

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Hey guys,

I just had a 2011 STI steering rack fitted to my 2011 Forester SH and am now encountering the SAS/VDC issue. I've disconnected the yaw sensor as a temporary fix but would like to pursue installing the arduino signal interceptor. Before I even start I just want to throw out a huge thank you to hired-goon, murfnamedsmurf and skirbykat for creating/documenting this process as much as you guys have. Very clever stuff!! I have no experience with arduinos but I'm a bit of a tinkerer so I'm very eager to jump in and use this as a learning project.

For starters, I've found a company in the UK who appear to sell the arduino box as a complete unit, including the OEM connectors. I've contacted them to see if this is still a service they provide. That would save me the hassle of ordering and sourcing all the components individually.

Failing that I'll go ahead and order the components in a few weeks time as I'm currently in the middle of shifting to a new city in New Zealand. No doubt I'll be running into my own issues so if you guys could possibly continue to monitor this thread in any capacity I'd really appreciate it!

Thanks again
Monolith NZ
That's awesome. We will definitely keep an eye out, let us know what questions or trouble you encounter. It doesn't really matter to the project as far as we can tell but out of curiosity which vehicle market is offered in NZ?

You're probably looking at the same UK website I saw. Hopefully you will have better luck, I didn't seem to get any response from them and was confused they seemed to offer a lot of products / services and nothing else similar to this one.

I'm also very glad to see this picking up again. I did everything to make sure it was right mechanically and still had issues, so without this project I'd either be without traction control or having constant issues. On snow or ice, the aggressive torque vectoring braking would actually likely cause me to skid, so that's a no-go.

As a side note, I do plan to add a timer to the door/light circuit as I've found over the past few weeks that I'm apparently just too quick/impatient with the key. Sometimes even when I deliberately try to be slower (but not painstakingly slow) I'm still not quick enough.
 

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Hi everyone,

I've created a new How-To article for those of you who are newly joining this project. The thread below has a PDF document attached detailing the project. You'll still need to familiarize yourself with Arduino if you haven't already, but otherwise I think most of the questions that came up along the way should be covered in there. Feel free to continue posting questions / progress in our current thread here, or it's fine to include them in the how-to thread.




As noted in that thread, IWire is working on obtaining connectors that will plug into the SAS male and female harnesses. I couldn't find these anywhere else other than cutting one off of an old SAS and the other off the car side harness. If you have a friendly pull-a-part yard this is fine (it was like ten bucks for me), but otherwise you might have to buy that entire interior bulkhead harness to the tune of a couple hundred bucks. Or cut the factory wires, of course.

I'm curious to see how the micro boards work out. I might try using them with a future project.
 

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You're probably looking at the same UK website I saw. Hopefully you will have better luck, I didn't seem to get any response from them and was confused they seemed to offer a lot of products / services and nothing else similar to this one.
The guys that run that UK site contacted me for help getting it working. They had their own car they made one for then kept it as a product on their site.
 
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