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2009 - How-to: SH Disable automatic A/C on defrost (manual controls).

('09-'13) 
23K views 62 replies 22 participants last post by  Corno007 
#1 ·
In response to the thread: http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f77/air-conditioning-always-2010-forester-82090/, I have made this guide to show how to disable the feature that turns the air conditioner on, and fresh air vents when you turn the control knob to either of the window defrost settings.

This should work for a 2009+ Forester.

Once disabled, you can always manually enable the A/C and outside vent to accelerate defrosting. I live in Texas, so I need this feature about three out of the year.

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1: Remove the glovebox.
-Open the glovebox
-Remove contents
-Remove the small damper arm at the right
-Pry in the top edges until the stops allow you to open the box fully
-The box will simply pull away after that.



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2: Remove the small side panel at the far right of the dash.
-This is done by simply prying it away, or pushing from the back once you have the glove box removed.



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3: Remove the gauge surround.
-This just pulls away



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4: Disconnect the Vent control cable.
-This is located to the left of the A/C controls, behind the steering column.
-Take care NOT to bend the wire past the yellow plastic as it will make changing the vent position difficult.
-There is a small tab holding the loop onto the white plastic arm
-There is a spring tab holding the yellow plastic cable surround in place.



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5: Remove the temperature control cable.
-This is located on the right hand side of the A/C control,s behind the glovebox.



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6: Carefully Remove the silver trim.
-Remove the single screw at the far right
-Starting from the right carefully pull the plastic away from the dash, there are many snaps to deal with on this piece.
-I also removed the radio trim so I didn't scratch it.



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7: Disconnect the A/C control wires.



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8: Turn the A/C controls over and look at the back/bottom
-Here's your problem. A small control arm that presses on a button when you turn the knob to the to defrost.



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9: Remove the small control arm.
-Simply push the two small tabs together and lift.



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10: Flip the control arm over, and re-attach.
-This way you don't loose it if you ever want to reverse this modification.
-Then put everything back together the way you found it.

 
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#33 ·
So, there was one other member that did this with a 2011....but I am confused as to how that person did this mod.

I just disassembled everything a few mins ago...and the actual HVAC control internals in my 2011 are different. There is no white piece on the back of the HVAC function selection knob[far left knob] that you take off and flip over. The green switch that activates the AC is there and is now actuated by the knob itself....it is all one piece. So, eliminating the AC function when you turn the knob to defrost can only be done by cutting or breaking off a tab on the back of that switch.

This change may be better as you can know just pull that knob off and cut off that tab. It is a permanent change, though, until you buy a brand new switch. I do not know if you have to pull off the entire silver trim piece to get the knob to pull off or not...which would make it really easy :)

You could have two knobs in the car...one modified and one unmodified for whatever catches your fancy.
 
#38 ·
Bada-bing bada boom!! You can just pull out the knobs on the 2011+ SH!!

You have to pull hard and wiggle a bit, but they come right out!

In the pic below, the tab in the circle needs to be cut off. The red arrow points to the top of the knob [where the selection indicator light is].



Really, could not be easier!
 
#40 ·
So....I did the mod...no dice. Sorry, my fault entirely. I need to look more into this as if you pull the knob off, and manually turn the post the knob controls, the A/C comes on at the defrost settings. So, there is something else deeper in the unit that is actuating the green switch for the A/C on with defrost.

I will have to look more in there and see...:shrug:
 
#41 ·
I just did this mod on my '12. That gauge trim was the hardest thing to pull off, and that yellow cable was a PITA to get at. You definitely have to disconnect the blue and yellow cables; there isn't enough slack to get at that arm underneath. You probably don't have to disconnect the 3 electrical plugs, but they're so easy that it doesn't matter much. Thanks for the excellent write-up!
 
#46 · (Edited)
I did it months ago on my 2015 Forester, pretty easy, I'll try to get some pics and instructions up soon. Have to take the center console apart and remove the section with three knobs, like on 2010, but at least you don't have to take half the dash apart to get there. :)

For some reason I didn't get the usual email reminder that you'd replied to this thread, wth?
 
#48 ·
Watch youtube video how to swap out stereo unit and you can see how the dash comes apart (that's what I did), then the cables disconnect from ventilation doors very similar to 2010 models. Under the left (ventilation selector) knob there is a micro switch on the upper right side of the pcb (printed circuit board), when depressed this micro switch turns on AC same as pressing AC button. I used a sharp utility knife to shave the protruding black plastic switch off, then put a drop of CA (super glue) on the remainder so that it could never get pressed. Probably unnecessary, but I like overkill lol. Reassemble in reverse order, it's that easy! :)
 
#49 ·
Nice. I just watched a vid on taking the stereo out. Looks easy to get the assembly off.

I'd like it to be reversible if possible, so I'll pass on using cyanoacrylate, lol. Is the switch you're referring to depressed directly by the knob or is there some removable thing in between that could be replaced should I change my mind? I'd rather not shave plastic off anything that isn't easily replaced.

Thanks for the info, BTW I really appreciate it.
 
#50 ·
Dash apart after watching youtube vid how to remove stereo.




Backside of the climate control panel after removal from center console.




Carefully pry the perimeter plastic tabs and pull the front fascia/trim piece off. It pulls off over the knob.




Then there are about six little phillips head screws to be removed, they are down in these holes as shown just above the stamped white number.




I carefully pried the little plastic tabs and removed the left knob to see what neeeded to be removed next and because I like to know how stuff works.




Knob was here lol. The two little white rectangles at lower part of hole on pcb are smt (surface mount) soldered tiny LEDs that backlight the control knobs.




This will leave you with the pcb in the back half of the plastic housing. In the through hole on hte left, you can see the micros switch protruding from the upper right corner.




Close-up of the switch.

 
#51 · (Edited)
Front side of the knobs and plastic housing. IIRC, it's possible to shave plastic off the knob instead of cutting the micro switch piece off, but the switch is easier to cut and I don't want to go back, I know how to push the AC button and turn heat on with defrost for extreme conditions...it's easy. :wink2:




Backside of same.




Close up with one of the knobs. IIRC, the extra black plastic part of the gear drive know at the base is what presses in on the micro switch as the ventilation control/selector knob is rotated to defrost position. If you cut this piece off carefully, it could be CA'ed (super glued) back on easily thus reversing this modification.

 
#56 ·
Done! That was a massive pain in the backside. I took no new pics as they are now readily available. (special thanks to Natedog!)

I have a 2016, in which the stereo system is different than the 2014-15. The entire radio/Starlink module/HVAC knobs are screwed together in one big assembly. I found a youtube vid to remove the 2016 stereo as the HVAC knobs are attached to it instead of the trim/bezel.

Subaru, in their wisdom, buried a couple screws deep in the side of the center stack making it very hard to get the radio assembly out. I had to remove the knee airbag trim (which was a bit scary) and the narrow trim next to the stack. And the glovebox, of course on the other side. And naturally I dropped the passenger side screw down into the stack. GRRRR! I'm glad I had a fishing magnet.

Anyway, once I unplugged the 14 or 15 things on the back and disconnected the ducting cables, I finally got it out. Pain in the butt!

After getting everything apart...

Natedog's pics of the HVAC PCB is the same as I have in the 2016. The only difference I did is, if you look closely at his pic of the micro switch, you'll see that there is a 'lid' held onto the top of the switch. The switch is a little box which has the black plastic pivoting 'fang', a spring, and a springed metal contact on the lid. The lid is one side of the contact which is closed to turn on the AC. I removed the 'lid' and snipped it off and gutted the switch innards. (innards = the little plastic fang that pivots and a nearly microscopic spring.

Also, watch out for 6 small springs in the sandwich of the HVAC knobs and the PCB. I lost one as I wasn't expecting them. I think I'll be fine with 5. I hope it doesn't find it's way to the PCB and short something!

I looked at the conical gear and the part that flips that microswitch and I decided it would be easier to eviscerate the switch. I can't reverse it without replacing the PCB, which it probably more expensive than the conical gear on the knob. Oh well.

It works perfectly. No automatic AC with defrost. Now AC will only come on when I want it to, which is how it should be. One more small thing is now right with the world, lol.
 
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