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Discussion Starter #1
When you did your last timing belt , did you use a breaker bar or an impact wrench to loosen the pulley bolt. I have a Milwaukee 2654 3/8 M18 impact, and wondering if that will take the bolt off.
 

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You need quite a bit of break away torque to get that bolt off. I think to tighten it takes about 130 foot pounds.
Break away torque is lots more so it will be close for that tool. 3/8" tools don't have that much oooomphm.

When I did my last belt, I used a Matco air gun. It has about 450 ft/lbs break away.
I since got a Milwaukee 1/2" electric gun. It has an insane amount of break away torque (>1000) and a mechanism that supposedly backs the hammering off when it detects movement so you don't snap the hardware. It seems to work.
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I used a breaker bar with a 3-foot cheater pipe and using a crank holder tool. It took so much torque that the holder tool pins bent over.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
You need quite a bit of break away torque to get that bolt off. I think to tighten it takes about 130 foot pounds.
Break away torque is lots more so it will be close for that tool. 3/8" tools don't have that much oooomphm.

When I did my last belt, I used a Matco air gun. It has about 450 ft/lbs break away.
I since got a Milwaukee 1/2" electric gun. It has an insane amount of break away torque (>1000) and a mechanism that supposedly backs the hammering off when it detects movement so you don't snap the hardware. It seems to work.
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I was thinking of upgrading to a Milwaukee 2861 with 450 ft-lbs Fastening torque and 600 ft-lbs Nut-Busting torque. the Mid torque 1/2. Do you think that will do it? Is there any fear of snapping the crank pulley bolt?
 

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I was thinking of upgrading to a Milwaukee 2861 with 450 ft-lbs Fastening torque and 600 ft-lbs Nut-Busting torque. the Mid torque 1/2. Do you think that will do it? Is there any fear of snapping the crank pulley bolt?
No, I don't think you'll snap it. That should take it off without too much of an issue. You don't want to rattle the crank too much. You'll want to hold it down while that gun it doing its business.

Pulley hold downs exists that make that job a little easier. I forget where I got mine but it basically consists of a thick plate you thread bolts into that fit into the pulley holes. You hold that plate down with a 1/2" breaker bar. I'll check tomorrow and see if there's a mark on the tool to let you know.

Edit: Had to get something from the shop so took some pictures of the hold down. No mark on the tool, tho.
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Discussion Starter #6
No, I don't think you'll snap it. That should take it off without too much of an issue. You don't want to rattle the crank too much. You'll want to hold it down while that gun it doing its business.

Pulley hold downs exists that make that job a little easier. I forget where I got mine but it basically consists of a thick plate you thread bolts into that fit into the pulley holes. You hold that plate down with a 1/2" breaker bar. I'll check tomorrow and see if there's a mark on the tool to let you know.
For a hold down tool I made one of these in the attachment from 1/4 aluminum plate. Someone on the Outback forum had posted it. I was hoping to save the $60 for a company 23 tool.
 

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For a hold down tool I made one of these in the attachment from 1/4 aluminum plate. Someone on the Outback forum had posted it. I was hoping to save the $60 for a company 23 tool.
That'll work - I found the receipt for the one I have. Made by grimmspeed.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I have through holes in the plate, and use a nut to hold the screw. I guess I could install helicoils.
 

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I have through holes in the plate, and use a nut to hold the screw. I guess I could install helicoils.
I've actually used a strap wrench before. Once your gun starts rattling, it will come off quickly.
Your tool will do a good job.
No worries.
 

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At the top of the bell-housing is an inspection hole that gives you easy access to the fly-wheel/ring-gear (there's a rubber plug covering the hole). You can easily stick a pri-bar or screwdriver into the hole to stop the crank from spinning. No need for special tools.
 

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When you did your last timing belt , did you use a breaker bar or an impact wrench to loosen the pulley bolt. I have a Milwaukee 2654 3/8 M18 impact, and wondering if that will take the bolt off.
I not only used a breaker bar from Harbor freight, but i attached a metal pipe to it.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Does anyone know the diameter of the four holes on in the 09 Forester Harmonic Balancer? I know, I should just go and look at the car, but the Forester is away with my daughter in school. I'm preping to do the timing belt over Thanks Giving.

I realized the tool I made I used on an 08 Outback. I drilled all 8 holes, all 3/8 in the tool I made. I thought the Forester had a smaller holes than the Outback.
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They are like piddly 1/4" or 5/16" diameter. This is why they bent over on my company 23 tool If I can find them before someone else chimes in, i'll put a caliper gage on them and let you know.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
I maybe over thinking the tool also. If I use Grade 8 - 1/4 inch bolts with a nut holding in place, on the tool/plate I drilled, torqued the h*** out of them so they don't move when holding the pulley, that would probably be good enough

I have a 2009 SOHC base model.

They are like piddly 1/4" or 5/16" diameter. This is why they bent over on my company 23 tool If I can find them before someone else chimes in, i'll put a caliper gage on them and let you know.
thanks Inspector!
 

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Did you figure it out? My newborn kiddo is messing with my free time :) Might still be able to dig it out and measure if you really need it.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I haven't yet, if you have time to check thank you. I'm visiting her this weekend and fit check the tool anyway. If my home made doesn't fit i'll order the Company 23 tool. I keep searching ebay thinking someone bought a company 23 tool and has since sold their Subaru, I've yet to see a used tool for sale.
 

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I haven't yet, if you have time to check thank you. I'm visiting her this weekend and fit check the tool anyway. If my home made doesn't fit i'll order the Company 23 tool. I keep searching ebay thinking someone bought a company 23 tool and has since sold their Subaru, I've yet to see a used tool for sale.
Why not use the inspection hole in the top of the bellhousing? No need for special tools...
 

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Discussion Starter #20
If anyone is still following this thread: I checked the harmonic balancer on the 09 this weekend. The hole pattern is the wider diameter and the holes are smaller, a 1/4 bolt fits in the holes, 3/8 bolt does not. I made new tool. Material is 3/8 aluminum. I laid out the four holes using the pattern above. Cut the center hole with a Milwaukee hole saw. Drilled two 1/2 inch holes and then using a Foredom rotary tool and hand file, squared the holes to receive a 1/2 inch socket. Drilled the 4 holes 15/64". I made these slightly undersize. The material is aluminum, so I pounded 1/4 grade 8 bolts in for a snug fit in the plate, the shoulder of the bolts are a snug press fit. . If shorter bolts are needed, I can change out. Should work fine as a crank holding tool. If you have access to scrap aluminum plate, this seems like a good option. If you have to buy , you might just as well buy a tool for $30.
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