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2008 Forester Sport 2.5X AT
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I tried to change the front differential fluid this morning. Unfortunately I found the drain plug was super tight.... I couldn't loosen it and probably ruined it:icon_sad:. I did use a T-70.
Now I 'm soaking the plug with PB blaster and hope to give it another try in the coming week. The question is that should I replace the plug if I manage to get it out? If I have to do so, what is the part number of this drain plug?
BTW: The car is a 08 4EAT.

Many thanks.
 

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2019 Crosstrek 2018 XT
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14,701 Posts
How did you do that?? Well its done. Putting it on a ramp using a breaker bar and making sure you were in there straight would have prevented that. What I would do is get some JB weld and put the T70 in the plug and fill the gaps. But make sure this time you do it right (ramps/breaker bar).

Shortcuts rarely are.

I would not do the impact..that's just me.
 

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2014 328i xDrive Wagon 8 spd Auto
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I'd try adc's approach first, its the more conservative, safer approach. After that an impact wrench is probably your next best bet, but there's always a risk of cracking the case.
 

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2010 Forester Premium X AT
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OP, I would replace the plug if you get it out. For something like this I think you'd have to call in to find the part number. Jackie at annapolis subaru I've heard would be a good place to start. Or call into any online places like www.subarupartsforyou.com and they should be able to special order it for you. You wont be able to roll into any parts store for this specialty part. FWIW, this damage is what Torx bits usually do and whoever did the last change obviously overtightened it. i'm not sure putting it up on ramps is going to do anything. A knucklehead mechanic who changed my diff fluids did the same thing. I had it up on ramps with a 3-foot cheater on a 2-foot breaker and the plug wouldn't budge and at that point I said it wasn't worth breaking my hand and took it to a dealer to change out the diff fluids. Once I got it home, I immediately broke free all the diff plugs and havent had issues since.
 

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2008 Forester X Premium 5MT
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2019 Crosstrek 2018 XT
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i'm not sure putting it up on ramps is going to do anything. A knucklehead mechanic who changed my diff fluids did the same thing.
I would have to disagree. Torque is 32.5 ft lbs. I put 25 ft lbs on mine last time I changed. I had to do exactly what I said..ramps..positioning the tool perfectly and had to pull my guts out with an 18" bar. Just barely got it.
 

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2008 Forester Sport 2.5X AT
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
How did you do that??
I did use ramps. However, before I put my T-70 into the slot, there were already some dents/damage on the teeth of the plug. What I did made things worse...

According to the maintenance records, the previous owner brought the vehicle to Jiffy-Lube for a `differential service'. In the receipt, only `rear differential service' shows up. Most likely the Jiffy-Lube guys attempted to drain the front differential but once they dented the drain plug they gave up.

I will definitely try your JB weld trick. But I won't touch the plug until I get the correct part for replacement.
 

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2008 Forester Sport 2.5X AT
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
http://opposedforces.com/parts/fore..._converter_and_converter_case/illustration_1/

Plug # 32103AA080
Gasket # 806913060

Disclaimer, Always confirm the part numbers your self with your dealer.
Thanks a lot! I will swing by the local dealer in the coming week. Although I really don't want to deal with them. They jack prices up on everything.

On the first day I purchased this vehicle from the previous owner, the dealer charged me 140$ for a buyer's inspection. Just out of curiosity, I asked the cost for a head gasket replacement. They shocked me with a $4000 price label...
Later on I bought an OEM oil filter from them by paying $11....and I do know it's just a $6-7 piece from this forum...


As for getting it out, I have a set of extractors that work great when people butcher allen and torx bolts.
Snap-on Tools
Just in case the JB weld trick didn't work, which extractor should I buy for getting this particular plug out? A set of extractors seems like an overkill in my case.
 

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2008 Forester X Premium 5MT
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Hard to say, I start small and work larger as needed, in some cases drilling a pilot hole.

Only had to do a few of these plugs, but they have all come out.
 

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2008 Forester X Premium 5MT
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But if you bust off a smaller extractor you are kinda screwed.
In 15+ years of owning that set, I have never had any of them break. They will grip and screw/cam in until they bottom out in the hole or on the shoulder of the extractors body and either turn the bolt out or round out the hole again, then move up to the next size.

In the case of larger torx/allens that are butchered I will drill it out enough to remove the hex/torx shape and to get a full depth drip of the extractor.

I have learned over the years that generally most extractors work as designed, it is the operator who makes a mistake and or doesn't know when to stop that makes the situation worse.

I also almost always use heat when I can when using an extractor.
 

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I would have to disagree. Torque is 32.5 ft lbs. I put 25 ft lbs on mine last time I changed. I had to do exactly what I said..ramps..positioning the tool perfectly and had to pull my guts out with an 18" bar. Just barely got it.
Yea, but you're a sissy :) Really depends on who tightened it last. I would try it on ramps, but wouldn't be surprised if he couldn't break it loose that way. I had my breaker/cheater setup bending at least 2-feet and it wasn't going anywhere even with a good dose of MAP gas.
 

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A hammer and punch works wonders. Put a dent into the outside of the plug, then walk the plug loose in the left rotation.

I do it with an air chisel all the time at work haha. If I can't get it broken loose in 2 minutes with a breaker bar and hammer tapping the housing, I blast it out. Replace the plug.
 

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2019 Crosstrek 2018 XT
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I use these impactors often they are great on motorcycles with smaller bolts and screws. I seriously cout it would work here.t work on this plug. I think burnwood's idea would work better.. And of course the ultimate is the extractor.
 

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2016 Forester Touring 2.5 non-turbo.
I did the same thing. I had the car on jacks and I stripped the 8mm hex plug with my 1/2” drive breaker bar. The plug is torqued too tight. Subaru needs a larger plug made from a harder metal than aluminum. I haven’t tried any extractors yet. That’s my next battle.

Post Script: I was able to get the stripped fill plug out. I used Harbor Freight's Pipe Nipple Extractor Set. I put the 1/4" size in a 3/8" socket on the end of a long extension and hammered it into the stripped plug. Worked like a charm, but still required a lot of force to remove. I had already bought a new fill plug from Subaru. (P/N 80701070) The drain and overflow plugs came out fairly easily and I reused them. I torqued the fill plug 5ft.lbs. less than specified and used a dab of anti-seize on all plugs. The oil looked fine, so I'm not sure if all this was a waste of time and money. But it couldn't hurt and it's done. Reminder: ALWAYS remove the fill plug before removing the drain plug.
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