Thanks. I will wait for the write up before I attempt them on my 99 SF.
2008 - DIY - N/A Spark Plug Replacement [Anal]!
N/A Spark Plug Replacement
Yes I am extremely anal when it comes to this stuff.
First Impressions:
1. First time is gonna' be long
2. Do the passenger side first bc after you remove the air filter housing..room is abundant. This will make it easier and make the driver side easier (for your first time).
3. Remove the air filter housing. Although I removed the Battery . it is NOT necessary
4. Changing plugs at 30K miles is nowhere necessary. But its good to do bc they will come out easier next time.
5. Have two 3" extensions ready on the driver side. You need to put the socket in in two steps (probably)
6. Do the job when the engine is cold.
7. Be prepared for a skinned knuckle or two
8. Its unlikely you will be able to use a torque wrench on the driver's side. Passenger's side probably you will be able to use one.
I have done several dozen plug changes in 45+ years and I would rate this as a '6' or '7' difficulty comparatively.
WRITEUP
Tools:
1. 5/8" Spark Plug Socket
2. two 3" extensions. (Driver side)
3. 8" to 10" extension (Passenger side).
4. Short handle ratchet (especially for driver's side)
5. 12 mm socket (Air Filter Housing hold-down bolts)
6. 8mm socket (Hose clamp -Air filter Duct to Housing)
7..Duct tape (Taping extensions/socket together)
8..Sharp Knife (Cutting away Duck Tape
) (or slashing your wrists-j/k)
9. Rubber Hose (Sucking/blowing debris out of spark plughole)
10. Anti-seize (Plug Thread * )
11. Dialectic Silicon Gel (Plug boots/Plug insulator)
11. Various Cleaning Supplies, flashlight, mirror, bandages, Whiskey, Beer, etc.
12. New Plugs
13. Ohm Resistance Meter (Optional)
Procedure:
* Gather up all tools ahead of time..make sure you are in the mood for this job.
* Do passenger side first.
* Insure car is cold.
* Remove air filter element
* Break connection where duct hose engages filter housing.
* Duct Tape upper filter housing toward the the fire Wall (so its out of way)
* Remove Lower bolts for lower filter housing (two- 12 mm). 10" extension is nice here.
* Housing may stick to lower mounting bolts-break free.
* Pull lower housing away from fender (air inlet) - remove from compartment.
![]()
* This is what you should be dealing with:
![]()
* Loosen guides for spark plug wires so you have flexibility in the wires.
* Grab the rubber handle on the boot and attempt to rotate the boot say 45 degrees in both directions.
* I'm not really sure rotating breaks it free at boot. Might be a waste of time.
* DO NOT PULL ON WIRE !
* Grab Boot at handle or anywhere except wire and Pull like hell..It may be ugly.
* Take piece of rubber hose, insert in hole and blow out debris.
* Tape 5/8" socket to 10 extension and put in hole and engage plug. (Insure you are engaged.
![]()
* Break Plug free and loosen very slowly. If it sticks go count clockwise and then counterclockwise in small increments
* Someone previously indicated spray brake cleaner for sticking plug (with extension spray tube).
* Remove plug, use hose to again blow out hole.
* Clean threads on old plug, lube with anti-seize* and run totally home using hand (no wrench)
* Lube new plug anti-seize* and use dialectic liberally on insulator.
* Run plug totally to seat using no wrench. Insure several times that it is seated.
* Torque to spec. (15.6 lbs) I used less ...(11 ft. lbs) With Anti Sieze
* The manual says to use 1/3 less torque when using anti-sieze. So that's about 11 ft. lbs
* The the correct torque will be 1/2 of a turn ( MAX) after "hand" contact
* Lube around housing and boot seal with dialectic.
* If you are going to check Resistance in Plug wires do it now
** Should be 9 to 16 Ohms. Use dialectic when reinstalling boots on supply end of wire.
* Push boot on plugs and 'feel' engagement.
* Repeat with other Plug.
* Reinstall Air filter Housing and filter.
*** Driver's side: (Battery removal not necessary)
![]()
* Utilize 3" extensions..tape one extension to socket.
* For removal, if extensions come apart its not a big problem you can push them together even if in hole.
* For installation, it the socket sticks to plug and the extensions come apart. You may need to:
*** Remove plug or
***Put a hook on a piece of wire and hook the pieces out (I needed to do this)
* Its unlikely that you will be able to use a torque wrench. Develop feel on Passenger Side ones. ( approx just about 3/4 turn after hand seating)
Other suggestions/Problems:
* Do two plugs and test drive, After cooling, do the other two,
* I didn't intend to do the job but after I pulled 2 plugs I went and bought Autolites bc NGK not available. Second time used NGK
* There is controversy about using anti-seize. I used it this time. I used 11 ft lbs with a small bit of anti-seize but later found: (from Subaru) Use 1/3 less torque with thread lubricant..11 ft lbs
* If you disconnect the battery, vehicle will not start on first try. Should start on second try.
If anyone thinks of other things, I'll add them
Oh..here's how the plugs looked after 31K miles
![]()
Yes I am extremely anal when it comes to this stuff.
First Impressions:
1. First time is gonna' be long
2. Do the passenger side first bc after you remove the air filter housing..room is abundant. This will make it easier and make the driver side easier (for your first time).
3. Remove the air filter housing. Although I removed the Battery . it is NOT necessary
4. Changing plugs at 30K miles is nowhere necessary. But its good to do bc they will come out easier next time.
5. Have two 3" extensions ready on the driver side. You need to put the socket in in two steps (probably)
6. Do the job when the engine is cold.
7. Be prepared for a skinned knuckle or two
8. Its unlikely you will be able to use a torque wrench on the driver's side. Passenger's side probably you will be able to use one.
I have done several dozen plug changes in 45+ years and I would rate this as a '6' or '7' difficulty comparatively.
WRITEUP
Tools:
1. 5/8" Spark Plug Socket
2. two 3" extensions. (Driver side)
3. 8" to 10" extension (Passenger side).
4. Short handle ratchet (especially for driver's side)
5. 12 mm socket (Air Filter Housing hold-down bolts)
6. 8mm socket (Hose clamp -Air filter Duct to Housing)
7..Duct tape (Taping extensions/socket together)
8..Sharp Knife (Cutting away Duck Tape
) (or slashing your wrists-j/k)9. Rubber Hose (Sucking/blowing debris out of spark plughole)
10. Anti-seize (Plug Thread * )
11. Dialectic Silicon Gel (Plug boots/Plug insulator)
11. Various Cleaning Supplies, flashlight, mirror, bandages, Whiskey, Beer, etc.
12. New Plugs
13. Ohm Resistance Meter (Optional)
Procedure:
* Gather up all tools ahead of time..make sure you are in the mood for this job.
* Do passenger side first.
* Insure car is cold.
* Remove air filter element
* Break connection where duct hose engages filter housing.
* Duct Tape upper filter housing toward the the fire Wall (so its out of way)
* Remove Lower bolts for lower filter housing (two- 12 mm). 10" extension is nice here.
* Housing may stick to lower mounting bolts-break free.
* Pull lower housing away from fender (air inlet) - remove from compartment.
* This is what you should be dealing with:
* Loosen guides for spark plug wires so you have flexibility in the wires.
* Grab the rubber handle on the boot and attempt to rotate the boot say 45 degrees in both directions.
* I'm not really sure rotating breaks it free at boot. Might be a waste of time.
* DO NOT PULL ON WIRE !
* Grab Boot at handle or anywhere except wire and Pull like hell..It may be ugly.
* Take piece of rubber hose, insert in hole and blow out debris.
* Tape 5/8" socket to 10 extension and put in hole and engage plug. (Insure you are engaged.
* Break Plug free and loosen very slowly. If it sticks go count clockwise and then counterclockwise in small increments
* Someone previously indicated spray brake cleaner for sticking plug (with extension spray tube).
* Remove plug, use hose to again blow out hole.
* Clean threads on old plug, lube with anti-seize* and run totally home using hand (no wrench)
* Lube new plug anti-seize* and use dialectic liberally on insulator.
* Run plug totally to seat using no wrench. Insure several times that it is seated.
* Torque to spec. (15.6 lbs) I used less ...(11 ft. lbs) With Anti Sieze
* The manual says to use 1/3 less torque when using anti-sieze. So that's about 11 ft. lbs
* The the correct torque will be 1/2 of a turn ( MAX) after "hand" contact
* Lube around housing and boot seal with dialectic.
* If you are going to check Resistance in Plug wires do it now
** Should be 9 to 16 Ohms. Use dialectic when reinstalling boots on supply end of wire.
* Push boot on plugs and 'feel' engagement.
* Repeat with other Plug.
* Reinstall Air filter Housing and filter.
*** Driver's side: (Battery removal not necessary)
* Utilize 3" extensions..tape one extension to socket.
* For removal, if extensions come apart its not a big problem you can push them together even if in hole.
* For installation, it the socket sticks to plug and the extensions come apart. You may need to:
*** Remove plug or
***Put a hook on a piece of wire and hook the pieces out (I needed to do this)
* Its unlikely that you will be able to use a torque wrench. Develop feel on Passenger Side ones. ( approx just about 3/4 turn after hand seating)
Other suggestions/Problems:
* Do two plugs and test drive, After cooling, do the other two,
* I didn't intend to do the job but after I pulled 2 plugs I went and bought Autolites bc NGK not available. Second time used NGK
* There is controversy about using anti-seize. I used it this time. I used 11 ft lbs with a small bit of anti-seize but later found: (from Subaru) Use 1/3 less torque with thread lubricant..11 ft lbs
* If you disconnect the battery, vehicle will not start on first try. Should start on second try.
If anyone thinks of other things, I'll add them
Oh..here's how the plugs looked after 31K miles
1 - 20 of 237 Posts
heh... I know I'll be giving this a go this summer. I'm up for a challenge.
Nice write-up. Doesn't sound too hard, just time consuming!
I'd also recommend wearing mechanic's gloves for the super tight spots.. so you don't skin your knuckles.
I'd also recommend wearing mechanic's gloves for the super tight spots.. so you don't skin your knuckles.
I think skinning your knuckles is inevitable :Banane35:Nice write-up. Doesn't sound too hard, just time consuming!
I'd also recommend wearing mechanic's gloves for the super tight spots.. so you don't skin your knuckles.
True... and nothing beats having skin on metal contact when trying to get a feel for things..
ADC, Nice writeup.
The only thing that gave me a problem in the past is too much dielectric grease on the boot(s). I've backed off to the point that I just skim the inside if the boot with my pinky finger. The Tip Connector doesnt like the grease - though in theory it shouldnt be a problem. I clean the boots inside and out using ethanol mixed with a tiny bit of distilled H2O. Plug boots dont like salt from the road OR from your sweaty palms; it only takes a little to migrate and cause a high misfire count in humid weather. Same goes for the plug socket insulator. It shouldnt transfer dirty grease onto the plug insulator. I usually weAr clean latex gloves to handle the new plugs, then thread the plugs in with a piece of fuel hose then tighten without the plug socket rubber insert. Another biggie - normal folks dont understand high-tension wires and what they like and dont like; but they surely DONT like to be under strain or torsion; so let them droop naturally the way they want to hang and try to keep that orientation when you re-insert the boot. Add these hints to your tune up list and you should have a car that runs BETTER after a tuneup other than worse. BTW, these are some of my SCCA racing secrets for extra HP, so dont tell anybody
The only thing that gave me a problem in the past is too much dielectric grease on the boot(s). I've backed off to the point that I just skim the inside if the boot with my pinky finger. The Tip Connector doesnt like the grease - though in theory it shouldnt be a problem. I clean the boots inside and out using ethanol mixed with a tiny bit of distilled H2O. Plug boots dont like salt from the road OR from your sweaty palms; it only takes a little to migrate and cause a high misfire count in humid weather. Same goes for the plug socket insulator. It shouldnt transfer dirty grease onto the plug insulator. I usually weAr clean latex gloves to handle the new plugs, then thread the plugs in with a piece of fuel hose then tighten without the plug socket rubber insert. Another biggie - normal folks dont understand high-tension wires and what they like and dont like; but they surely DONT like to be under strain or torsion; so let them droop naturally the way they want to hang and try to keep that orientation when you re-insert the boot. Add these hints to your tune up list and you should have a car that runs BETTER after a tuneup other than worse. BTW, these are some of my SCCA racing secrets for extra HP, so dont tell anybody
But NOT a twin turbo mitsubishi V6. You couldnt drop a marble under the hood and have it come out on the road or belly pan. Had to remove the intake manifold and FI to change the back bank 3 plugs:icon_eek:Here's a pic of the NA engine which has a little more room:
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