Subaru Forester Owners Forum banner
101 - 117 of 117 Posts

·
Super Moderator
2001 Forester S, 4EAT
Joined
·
3,222 Posts
@trdriver71 If you want to continue down the path it maybe fuel, the only other thing I can think of is to pull each fuel injector out and rig up a system where you can push liquid (water?) through each injector to see if you are getting a fine mist. But you kind of already proved that as @donkpow suggested, which is pull the plugs to see if they are wet, which you have stated they are not. So never mind. Next idea!
 

·
Registered
2010 X Limited, 2.5L NA, 4AT. Purchased as the second owner in 2020 with ~126K miles.
Joined
·
391 Posts
If there is one thing that is annoying, it is basing a troubleshooting plan on a false assumption. You might as well just take a wild guess and go with that, save yourself the work. The troubleshooting procedure in the manual is laid out in a logical manner. I'd like to think that the engineers who put it together based the procedure on pertinent information. On my recent fail to start problem, I found myself wanting a pressure test port in the fuel system. If I run into a sticky situation in the future, I'll put one in. Speculation can be a time killer.

You can find a local shop, maybe a specialty or speed shop, with an injector test stand. Should be cheap just to look at one injector
 

·
Registered
2007 subaru forester sohc 2.5L
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter · #104 ·
@donkpow I am doing basic trouble shooting. check for spark which i have now check for compression which i have done it is low but it is there check for fuel which I can't confirm is getting to the cylinders. but if i can get all three i should be able to start it.
 

·
Registered
2010 X Limited, 2.5L NA, 4AT. Purchased as the second owner in 2020 with ~126K miles.
Joined
·
391 Posts
yeah, what's the spark plug look like, wet?

When I first read your comments, I got the impression that the engine might be trying to start. If you have no fuel and/or no spark, the engine just spins with no reaction whatsoever. If you have spark and some fuel, it will lope while spinning. Sometimes, slightly. But it still won't start. If you are unsure of difference between these two conditions, disconnect your coil and crank the engine. Then, reconnect the coil and try again. See what it sounds like and if you can hear any difference.
 

·
Registered
2007 subaru forester sohc 2.5L
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter · #107 ·
Can someone tell me what the resistance should be on the injector coil on the fuel injectors?
 

·
Registered
2010 X Limited, 2.5L NA, 4AT. Purchased as the second owner in 2020 with ~126K miles.
Joined
·
391 Posts
Is it true that you have not had the valve covers off of the engine?
 

·
Registered
2007 subaru forester sohc 2.5L
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter · #111 ·
i had one side off why do you ask this what should i be looking for with the valve covers off? Do rocker arms break often in these cars?
So since I last posted I tested the injector coils resistance and I had 3 at 11 and one at 12 ohms and i also tested the injector plugs for pulses and all test good and i get 13.5V on the positive side of the injector plugs.
 

·
Registered
2007 subaru forester sohc 2.5L
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter · #112 ·
Most of my subaru's where ea81 and a ea71 this is my first subaru with a ej25 engine. My brother also owned a ea81 engine but his was a turbo and he put around 750000km on it before he sold the car to a friend who drove it many more km at the time he sold it still didn't burn any oil.
 

·
Registered
2010 X Limited, 2.5L NA, 4AT. Purchased as the second owner in 2020 with ~126K miles.
Joined
·
391 Posts
I am thinking. Did you have the timing cover off with the opportunity to verify timing?
 

·
Registered
2007 subaru forester sohc 2.5L
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter · #117 ·
Update: So i replaced the engine and the car started right up. So what ever was wrong must have been in the engine or the parts attached to it like the injectors or the throttle body. I got lucky spent $180 for an engine from the local pick n pull tested compression and it was good 170psi but replaced the rear main seal and the timing belt and idlers and valve cover and pan gaskets as the engine we got was covered in oil so i thought i would do that while the engine was out to make it easier
 
101 - 117 of 117 Posts
Top