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04 Forester XT 5MT
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The H1 bulb is not twist lock like the 9003. It has wire retainer clips that have to lock the bulb in place. I might opt for brighter halogens for the low beams as I've seen several posts from people saying I'll blind people with LED's in the stock reflector housings and I should only put LED's in the high beams. Does anybody have any recommendations for good halogen bulbs besides Silver Stars? I want them to be a cooler color tone (6000 or 6500ºK), so Silver Stars might be about it.

Also, can anybody give me a hint how to get the eyebrow bulb out? I can't seem to find where it is on the back of the headlight housing. I'd like to swap those for LED's too if I can.
You misunderstood my explanation. 9003 is the same sort of mount set up as H1 and uses a tension wire clip to hold it in as well. The LED headlights I am using have a removable mounting ring. It's not a twist lock, but the ring is removable so you can fasten the tension wire to the ring first, then reinsert the entire LED light back into the ring, and turn the light back to level (or any other position if it doesn't mount straight and level).

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Check your LED, the ring is probably removable, and the instructions probably won't tell you. It should be held in place by an o-ring. Some are, some aren't.

And just so you know, Silver Stars are only like 4000K (according to Sylvania). Osram Nightbreaker Lasers are 4300K, but just like Silver Stars, they won't even last a year. The ZXE bulbs are closer, like 5000K, but they don't put out nearly as much light because of the film on the glass. ZXE is more for the look than the output.

I'm pretty sure you have to remove the headlight in order to get to where the brow light is located. I have the same issue on my 04, so I would assume it is the same on 06-08.
 

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2017 Forester XT Touring CVT
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Discussion Starter #22
You misunderstood my explanation. 9003 is the same sort of mount set up as H1 and uses a tension wire clip to hold it in as well. The LED headlights I am using have a removable mounting ring. It's not a twist lock, but the ring is removable so you can fasten the tension wire to the ring first, then reinsert the entire LED light back into the ring, and turn the light back to level (or any other position if it doesn't mount straight and level).

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Check your LED, the ring is probably removable, and the instructions probably won't tell you. It should be held in place by an o-ring. Some are, some aren't.

And just so you know, Silver Stars are only like 4000K (according to Sylvania). Osram Nightbreaker Lasers are 4300K, but just like Silver Stars, they won't even last a year. The ZXE bulbs are closer, like 5000K, but they don't put out nearly as much light because of the film on the glass. ZXE is more for the look than the output.

I'm pretty sure you have to remove the headlight in order to get to where the brow light is located. I have the same issue on my 04, so I would assume it is the same on 06-08.
Thanks! I see what you mean now. I’ll have to check the bulbs I have to see if the adapter ring is remove-able. If so
I’ll order the rubber dust caps and make the switch to LED’s. Ultimately I’d love to have a set of full projector retrofits made but they’re so expensive that they’re a low priority....other stuff to do first to get this car fully sorted.


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2018 FXT-T CVT / 2007 FXT 5MT
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I had decent cutoffs with properly built LEDs that put the diodes at the same spacing. Cutoff was the same as the halogens. I used Katur H1 as they were the right size for the cap and all in one with no external driver.
 

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Thanks! I see what you mean now. I’ll have to check the bulbs I have to see if the adapter ring is remove-able. If so
I’ll order the rubber dust caps and make the switch to LED’s. Ultimately I’d love to have a set of full projector retrofits made but they’re so expensive that they’re a low priority....other stuff to do first to get this car fully sorted.


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Just retrofit some yourself. It's really not that difficult, and quite a rewarding experience. I made some for my WRX and was really happy with the results. I watched every how to video on Youtube and then some. For about $150 you get everything you would need from The Retrofit Source, and their customer service is top notch. The Acme Mini H1 projector is a great kit for the price, but it's HID, not LED. LED projectors are quite pricey right now, even the generic ones on Amazon.

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2017 Forester XT Touring CVT
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Discussion Starter #25
Just retrofit some yourself. It's really not that difficult, and quite a rewarding experience. I made some for my WRX and was really happy with the results. I watched every how to video on Youtube and then some. For about $150 you get everything you would need from The Retrofit Source, and their customer service is top notch. The Acme Mini H1 projector is a great kit for the price, but it's HID, not LED. LED projectors are quite pricey right now, even the generic ones on Amazon.

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Thanks! Not sure I’d know where to begin but I’ll start researching it. I think I have to start with new housings, as it doesn’t make sense to do a project like this with old sketchy lenses, so I can add about $300. is it hard to aim them properly?


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Believe it or not, those are junkyard score OEM headlights. I cleaned and polished them really well both before and after I was completed. Aiming really wasn't difficult. First, before you put everything back together, you clamp the assembly down to a level surface/bench, measure 10-12 ft from the wall and apply 12V power, then adjust the level/tilt of the projector and tighten the aluminum lock ring. Then you put them back together, install in your vehicle, park 25 ft from a large wall, and use the OEM adjustment bolts to properly aim and adjust.height of the cut off.
 

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2017 Forester XT Touring CVT
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Discussion Starter #27
Believe it or not, those are junkyard score OEM headlights. I cleaned and polished them really well both before and after I was completed. Aiming really wasn't difficult. First, before you put everything back together, you clamp the assembly down to a level surface/bench, measure 10-12 ft from the wall and apply 12V power, then adjust the level/tilt of the projector and tighten the aluminum lock ring. Then you put them back together, install in your vehicle, park 25 ft from a large wall, and use the OEM adjustment bolts to properly aim and adjust.height of the cut off.
Thanks again. I just wish I could find a thread that details this (parts and procedure) for my '07 Sport headlights. I am handy and have no problem doing it, but want to make sure I buy the right parts. I haven't been able to find half way decent headlights in a junkyard, but I'm specifically looking for the '08 Sport (blacked out) housings.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
One other quick question...since you went with the Bi-Xenon kit, what did you put in your high beam reflector? I think it would look odd to have it empty.
 

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One other quick question...since you went with the Bi-Xenon kit, what did you put in your high beam reflector? I think it would look odd to have it empty.
Yeah, you're out $400 for OEM 06-08 Sport headlights. As for the hi-beams, I stuck a 9006 LED headlight bulb in there. The hi-beams have a splitter, so both the bi-xenon and the hi-beam LED function at the same time, putting out a TON of light. I had to reposition the twist lock flange on the hi-beam mount so the LED would be aligned correctly, but that was pretty easy to do with a drill and a dremel.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
So one of the things that has been bothering me on my recently purchased '07 FXT are all the rusted screws and bolts under the hood. Does anybody make a kit with all varieties of sizes to replace them all? It's the only thing rusted on this 13 year old car....not surprising here in PA considering these screws aren't stainless. I'd also like to replace some of the other rusty brackets and clamps. Am I being too nitpicky with this stuff, or is it worth going through the trouble of swapping these parts?
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no such kits exist..you'd be tracking down every clamp and bolt individually which really isn't necessary for the most part. Most of what I'm seeing in your pictures is surface rust and no real risk to the integrity of the hardware. If I were you I'd hit it all with some rust preventative products to stop further development of the rust..something that's safe for most rubbers...Lanolin oil like you'd find in fluid film is a great non permanent coating that will slow/stop the rust.
 
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