2006 - joea99 SOHC rebuild with short block
('06-'08)
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2017 Forester Premium 2.5i, 6-speed manual, moon-roof, fog lights, skid-plates, winch, 2nd bedroom
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While you don't want to unplug the fuel pump it is easy on most cars I have done.
Both my 2017 Forester and my 1999 Rav4 have a panel under the backseat with 4 screws. Under the panel is the top of the fuel tank and the electrical connector for the fuel pump, unplug it.
Your 2006 could be the same.
Both my 2017 Forester and my 1999 Rav4 have a panel under the backseat with 4 screws. Under the panel is the top of the fuel tank and the electrical connector for the fuel pump, unplug it.
Your 2006 could be the same.
That ended up being the easiest.
Did try removing the glove box but could not decipher which relay it actually was. One U toober with an 06 claims it was the one all the way in back (toward firewall) and I gave it up after a bit.
Disconnecting at the fuel pump was easy in comparison, even fighting those evil clips.
Decided to put rebuilt injectors in my rebuilt engine. One of them leaks badly at the supply junction seal. I ordered a warranty replacement and a set of seals as well.
However, before I get into it again, thought I would ask what else could cause this leak? I doubt very much the supply pipe was damaged while it was sitting aside off the engine or while I reinstalled the injectors.
If it should leak again, what should I look for?
However, before I get into it again, thought I would ask what else could cause this leak? I doubt very much the supply pipe was damaged while it was sitting aside off the engine or while I reinstalled the injectors.
If it should leak again, what should I look for?
TSB 02-96-05 apparently deals with reman short block "dry startup" for the 2.5L engine.
It is referred on a "yellow card" included with short block, warning about "dry startup".
Where can I get a copy to read?
It is referred on a "yellow card" included with short block, warning about "dry startup".
Where can I get a copy to read?
Finally fired up a rebuild. SOHC 2.5 AVLS, 5 speed. Short block from Subaru, heads done by local good shop. Rebuilt injectors.
Runs very rough at idle. First start was a bit scary, immediate check engine light. Stopped to check codes and there were at least 4 all sensor related. Cleared them, restarted and no more CEL so far.
Cleans up nicely above 2000 RPM. Shut it down after a minute or two to check fluids and found a "trail" of mouse house apparently blown out the tail pipe. The car did sit for some time, with exhaust open at both ends.
Started again, it will idle, sort of, but very "lumpy". It will occasionally die a idle, sometimes with bit of a "bang" from under the car, driver door open, sounds like from around the rear cat.
Total run time is probably under 5 minutes so far. I could use ideas at this point.
Runs very rough at idle. First start was a bit scary, immediate check engine light. Stopped to check codes and there were at least 4 all sensor related. Cleared them, restarted and no more CEL so far.
Cleans up nicely above 2000 RPM. Shut it down after a minute or two to check fluids and found a "trail" of mouse house apparently blown out the tail pipe. The car did sit for some time, with exhaust open at both ends.
Started again, it will idle, sort of, but very "lumpy". It will occasionally die a idle, sometimes with bit of a "bang" from under the car, driver door open, sounds like from around the rear cat.
Total run time is probably under 5 minutes so far. I could use ideas at this point.
I did not actually see a mouse, just the nesting material. I guess it could have run off by the time I got there. I suppose there is no way to test, other that to take it all down and see?
Update - I had it "relearn" idle, by disconnecting the battery, etc. It went right to fast idle and slowed to normal after a bit. Very lumpy idle and could see the engine rocking on the mounts.
As it warmed, it occasionally "hickupped" and threw P302 and P304 codes. I let it warm for a bit, shut it off and restarted, It fired right up but was still lumpy.
Pretty sure the timing is correct as I had others look at pictures of my timing belt install. Checked the plug wires and connection to the coil pack. I kind of doubt it is the coil pack or wires as this was not a problem on the old engine. The plugs are also from that engine and, while not "pristine" should not be bad.
I just don't want to spend any more money on this until I have a pretty solid reason to. What should I be looking at?
As it warmed, it occasionally "hickupped" and threw P302 and P304 codes. I let it warm for a bit, shut it off and restarted, It fired right up but was still lumpy.
Pretty sure the timing is correct as I had others look at pictures of my timing belt install. Checked the plug wires and connection to the coil pack. I kind of doubt it is the coil pack or wires as this was not a problem on the old engine. The plugs are also from that engine and, while not "pristine" should not be bad.
I just don't want to spend any more money on this until I have a pretty solid reason to. What should I be looking at?
@joea99, Is it still showing P302 and P304? Have you tried swapping plug wires and/or spark plugs to the opposite side of the engine? 2 and 4 are on the same side. Subaru also uses a wasted spark ignition: Ignition Coil Testing “Waste spark ignition system”: | Subaru Idiots
Make sure your cam and crank sensors and wiring are in good shape as well.
Move fuel injectors around as well.
Make sure your cam and crank sensors and wiring are in good shape as well.
Move fuel injectors around as well.
I have not cleared the codes yet. Just talked to someone that thinks the cam timing must be off. I'm pretty sure it's OK, as I had some people double check my lineup, via photos of the sprockets, and they all said it was fine. I don't know enough about Subaru's to know if it would run at all if it was off a tooth.
@joea99 It kind of makes sense the cam timing may be off, as the issue is only affecting the one side of the engine. So it's worth double checking the timing alignment, along with my list of suggestions. It can run off 1 tooth. Keep in mind it's a interference engine, meaning if it's off too much, valves will crash into the pistons.
OK, thanks. I was worried about the crank marks. Thinking it was "half a tooth" off(Toyota and VW experience), but could not get it any closer.
Here is a vid I took trying to get a better look at the crank mark.
Yeah, I thought it should do that as well. Here's a vid I took of angles on the crank viewing.
Just to update those waiting breathlessly for a resolution. Problem solved. Timing belt is fine, apparently.
There was a very good and very simple reason for P0302 and P0304 (cylinder misfire). Some idiot, known to me but who will remain unshamed here, had the ignition wires for cylinders 2 and 4 reversed. Yes. I am an idiot.
It now runs perfectly at idle, cold and warmed. And shows how long it's been since I had a Subaru above 2000 RPM, to know what it SHOULD sound and act like.
Ok
There was a very good and very simple reason for P0302 and P0304 (cylinder misfire). Some idiot, known to me but who will remain unshamed here, had the ignition wires for cylinders 2 and 4 reversed. Yes. I am an idiot.
It now runs perfectly at idle, cold and warmed. And shows how long it's been since I had a Subaru above 2000 RPM, to know what it SHOULD sound and act like.
Ok
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