Posts by joea99
('06-'08)
1 - 20 of 43 Posts
I am rebuilding EJ253 SOHC with a short block from subaru and the old head via local machine shop.
All bolted up and getting ready to install timing belt. I should say I got the heads back with all valves closed and the cam gears installed. And that is how I installed them.
The right (hex shaped center) has the timing mark clearly seen on the rim, with some white paint highlighting it. The left (spoked) was installed with the white mark "up" (valves all closed) but the initial fit of the timing belt did not alight on that side. So I looked more closely.
Turns out the paint mark is just that, a paint mark, there is no mark under in, in the metal rim of the cam sprocket. There does appear to be a mark (line) in the rim elsewhere on the edge and there is an "arrow" cast into one of the spokes.
I am now at a standstill as I can find online is about changing belts which rely on marks one paints on at the time. The FSM is not helpful. At least I have not found anything to easy my mind.
All bolted up and getting ready to install timing belt. I should say I got the heads back with all valves closed and the cam gears installed. And that is how I installed them.
The right (hex shaped center) has the timing mark clearly seen on the rim, with some white paint highlighting it. The left (spoked) was installed with the white mark "up" (valves all closed) but the initial fit of the timing belt did not alight on that side. So I looked more closely.
Turns out the paint mark is just that, a paint mark, there is no mark under in, in the metal rim of the cam sprocket. There does appear to be a mark (line) in the rim elsewhere on the edge and there is an "arrow" cast into one of the spokes.
I am now at a standstill as I can find online is about changing belts which rely on marks one paints on at the time. The FSM is not helpful. At least I have not found anything to easy my mind.
@adc The water pump came with the short block. The other stuff is from a Gates kit. This is not a typical timing belt replacement. In any event, I went with the "built in" mark on the Left sprocket and ignored the painted on mark. Even sanded it off.
All appears to be in order, but I still have to install the flywheel, clutch, etc and stick in in the vehicle before trying to fire it up. But. the marks all line up after several manual revolutions, so, I guess it is good.
All appears to be in order, but I still have to install the flywheel, clutch, etc and stick in in the vehicle before trying to fire it up. But. the marks all line up after several manual revolutions, so, I guess it is good.
06 2.5 SOHC 5 speed. Replacing flywheel, clutch, etc. Slipped while installing the pilot bearing supplied with LUK kit and seeking a replacement. The one supplies was KBC (Korean) 6201-Z (metal shielded). Rock auto sells a few top names but none are metal shielded. Which may not be really necessary anyway.
So, who makes the best? I don't want to put in iffy off brands and hate the world in a few thousand miles.
So, who makes the best? I don't want to put in iffy off brands and hate the world in a few thousand miles.
New timing belt on a Subaru reman short block and locally redone heads.
I've done a few timing belts, mostly on Toyota 4's but a couple v6. It is pretty clear when you are off by half a tooth. If you miss that, they idle very poorly.
I want to avoid any chance of being off when I finally re-install the engine and started worrying if I am off a tooth at the crank. I'm just not real confident about the timing marks.
The crank pulley marks bother me (it's a new part) as the outer arrow and inner line do not seem to agree with each other. I don't really know with is "authoritative". I provide a link to some pictures, but it is difficult to get a "square on" shot with a phone camera. So I also shot a short video of the crank pulley. If you get asked to create an account or login at drop box, just click past it.
Suggestions, etc. appreciated.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/pwvs54qgrn...22234.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/4kefqfd86u...22256.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/j4feu7ha0n...22314.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/bkqc3vii05...31435.mp4?dl=0
I've done a few timing belts, mostly on Toyota 4's but a couple v6. It is pretty clear when you are off by half a tooth. If you miss that, they idle very poorly.
I want to avoid any chance of being off when I finally re-install the engine and started worrying if I am off a tooth at the crank. I'm just not real confident about the timing marks.
The crank pulley marks bother me (it's a new part) as the outer arrow and inner line do not seem to agree with each other. I don't really know with is "authoritative". I provide a link to some pictures, but it is difficult to get a "square on" shot with a phone camera. So I also shot a short video of the crank pulley. If you get asked to create an account or login at drop box, just click past it.
Suggestions, etc. appreciated.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/pwvs54qgrn...22234.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/4kefqfd86u...22256.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/j4feu7ha0n...22314.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/bkqc3vii05...31435.mp4?dl=0
Interesting, but that is not what my issue is. The Gates belt marks lined up perfectly. Its the marks on the crank pulley that have me questioning myself.South Main Auto
Bolting up the new engine and cannot find notes or photos of where they go. Sure, they go in the holes, but two of the bolts have additional "brackets" on them, presumably for attaching cables, wires, etc. I also presume they are the two uppermost bolts, one also holding the starter in. The FSM is no help and all the photos I have found of engine bay does not seem to show them.
Perhaps some kind soul and provide a description or some photos of them in place? Thanks.
Perhaps some kind soul and provide a description or some photos of them in place? Thanks.
Sometimes I wish there were a "delete post" available. Turns out, I found the pictures I took and know exactly were they should go. Or, at least, where they were when I tore it down.Bolting up the new engine and cannot find notes or photos of where they go. Sure, they go in the holes, but two of the bolts have additional "brackets" on them, presumably for attaching cables, wires, etc. I also presume they are the two uppermost bolts, one also holding the starter in. The FSM is no help and all the photos I have found of engine bay does not seem to show them.
Perhaps some kind soul and provide a description or some photos of them in place? Thanks.
Buttoning up after installing a rebuilt SOHC engine. While reinstalling the A/C compressor, I was perplexed, to put it mildly, that I could not see, nor find, the wire to clip into the compressor. I will confess, right here, that when I pulled what I needed off the old engine, I separated the intake manifold and wiring harness. Big Mistake! But, that is resolved. Or, giving the missing wire, is it really?
Since it is pretty chilly and was now getting dark, I accepted reality, for once, and called it a day, settling for a warming drink and a hot shower. TMI? Oh well. Sorry.
So, before I start pulling my hair out, what is left of it, perusing the FSM and wiring diagrams, should it be right there in the wire harness that go to the injectors, pressure sensors and valve solenoid on that side?
Since it is pretty chilly and was now getting dark, I accepted reality, for once, and called it a day, settling for a warming drink and a hot shower. TMI? Oh well. Sorry.
So, before I start pulling my hair out, what is left of it, perusing the FSM and wiring diagrams, should it be right there in the wire harness that go to the injectors, pressure sensors and valve solenoid on that side?
Seek and ye shall find. Part of the alternator harness. Simple, once you think about it.
Ashamed to say I thought I was about done re-assembling and re-installing a EJ253 SOHC. Some time has passed since I tore it down so followed the FSM for major steps, like installing intake manifold.
Suddenly I realize what I have left, a T shaped pipe and hose assembly that looks like it vents the cam covers via a small vacuum line to the intake manifold forward of the throttle body, look like it should have been installed BEFORE installing the intake. If I was absolutely certain of the routing, I might be able to squeeze it in, but it looks dicey.
I cannot find a proper routing diagram and the online parts diagrams are not very specific in that area. What are the chances the Subaru TIS subscription site will help me out?
What are the chances someone here know what I am babbling about?
Suddenly I realize what I have left, a T shaped pipe and hose assembly that looks like it vents the cam covers via a small vacuum line to the intake manifold forward of the throttle body, look like it should have been installed BEFORE installing the intake. If I was absolutely certain of the routing, I might be able to squeeze it in, but it looks dicey.
I cannot find a proper routing diagram and the online parts diagrams are not very specific in that area. What are the chances the Subaru TIS subscription site will help me out?
What are the chances someone here know what I am babbling about?
Again, one wishes for a delete option. Upon reflection, in the clear light of day, in a warm room, the dight lawns. What I was attempting to rationalize as being part of the PCV system is actually the hose assembly from the water pump to the heater and "bypass".
This has been described as "pursuing an untamed ornithoid without cause" by some.
The cold must have been restricting blood flow to my brain. Wonder if wearing a hat will help?
This has been described as "pursuing an untamed ornithoid without cause" by some.
The cold must have been restricting blood flow to my brain. Wonder if wearing a hat will help?
Is there any way to disable the fuel pump and allow engaging the starter without removing the fuel plump relay or disconnecting at the fuel pump?
I tried removing fuse SB5 which does disable the fuel pump, but also seems to disable cranking. Am I wrong there? I know it supplies some other stuff, but can't seem to decipher the schematics.
I tried removing fuse SB5 which does disable the fuel pump, but also seems to disable cranking. Am I wrong there? I know it supplies some other stuff, but can't seem to decipher the schematics.
@donkpow,
The issue is getting to the relay. I'm getting lazy and don't want to remove the kick panel under the glove box. May have to apparently.
The issue is getting to the relay. I'm getting lazy and don't want to remove the kick panel under the glove box. May have to apparently.
Trying to "pre lube" my rebuilt, with Subaru short block, per the tag on the block. Basically, turn off fuel, remove plugs and crank it 15 seconds, I think 3 times, till the oil light goes out.
Well, it seems to be cranking a bit slowly. Always did, as I recall. Brand new NAPA battery. Original starter, pretty clean grounds and battery connector. The oil light did not go out after a couple cranks, so decided to stop and look further.
The slow crank, may simply be a weak starter. I had considered getting another, but, sheesh, my pockets are already out of shape from my hands going in there so often. What I will do is give the battery a fresh charge and measure for voltage drops across the hot and ground wires to the starter. If those are OK. well starter time I guess.
Even with the slowish crank, I checked the oil right away and is was down half way between add and full. I had it topped off to start. So, I am going with the oil pump is working fine.
I re-used the old oil pressure switches and may put in new ones, as either one, or both, may be bad now, having sat for a while.
Any thoughts?
Well, it seems to be cranking a bit slowly. Always did, as I recall. Brand new NAPA battery. Original starter, pretty clean grounds and battery connector. The oil light did not go out after a couple cranks, so decided to stop and look further.
The slow crank, may simply be a weak starter. I had considered getting another, but, sheesh, my pockets are already out of shape from my hands going in there so often. What I will do is give the battery a fresh charge and measure for voltage drops across the hot and ground wires to the starter. If those are OK. well starter time I guess.
Even with the slowish crank, I checked the oil right away and is was down half way between add and full. I had it topped off to start. So, I am going with the oil pump is working fine.
I re-used the old oil pressure switches and may put in new ones, as either one, or both, may be bad now, having sat for a while.
Any thoughts?
That ended up being the easiest.While you don't want to unplug the fuel pump it is easy on most cars I have done.
Both my 2017 Forester and my 1999 Rav4 have a panel under the backseat with 4 screws. Under the panel is the top of the fuel tank and the electrical connector for the fuel pump, unplug it.
Your 2006 could be the same.
Did try removing the glove box but could not decipher which relay it actually was. One U toober with an 06 claims it was the one all the way in back (toward firewall) and I gave it up after a bit.
Disconnecting at the fuel pump was easy in comparison, even fighting those evil clips.
Decided to put rebuilt injectors in my rebuilt engine. One of them leaks badly at the supply junction seal. I ordered a warranty replacement and a set of seals as well.
However, before I get into it again, thought I would ask what else could cause this leak? I doubt very much the supply pipe was damaged while it was sitting aside off the engine or while I reinstalled the injectors.
If it should leak again, what should I look for?
However, before I get into it again, thought I would ask what else could cause this leak? I doubt very much the supply pipe was damaged while it was sitting aside off the engine or while I reinstalled the injectors.
If it should leak again, what should I look for?
TSB 02-96-05 apparently deals with reman short block "dry startup" for the 2.5L engine.
It is referred on a "yellow card" included with short block, warning about "dry startup".
Where can I get a copy to read?
It is referred on a "yellow card" included with short block, warning about "dry startup".
Where can I get a copy to read?
Finally fired up a rebuild. SOHC 2.5 AVLS, 5 speed. Short block from Subaru, heads done by local good shop. Rebuilt injectors.
Runs very rough at idle. First start was a bit scary, immediate check engine light. Stopped to check codes and there were at least 4 all sensor related. Cleared them, restarted and no more CEL so far.
Cleans up nicely above 2000 RPM. Shut it down after a minute or two to check fluids and found a "trail" of mouse house apparently blown out the tail pipe. The car did sit for some time, with exhaust open at both ends.
Started again, it will idle, sort of, but very "lumpy". It will occasionally die a idle, sometimes with bit of a "bang" from under the car, driver door open, sounds like from around the rear cat.
Total run time is probably under 5 minutes so far. I could use ideas at this point.
Runs very rough at idle. First start was a bit scary, immediate check engine light. Stopped to check codes and there were at least 4 all sensor related. Cleared them, restarted and no more CEL so far.
Cleans up nicely above 2000 RPM. Shut it down after a minute or two to check fluids and found a "trail" of mouse house apparently blown out the tail pipe. The car did sit for some time, with exhaust open at both ends.
Started again, it will idle, sort of, but very "lumpy". It will occasionally die a idle, sometimes with bit of a "bang" from under the car, driver door open, sounds like from around the rear cat.
Total run time is probably under 5 minutes so far. I could use ideas at this point.
I did not actually see a mouse, just the nesting material. I guess it could have run off by the time I got there. I suppose there is no way to test, other that to take it all down and see?If a mouse was blown out the tail pipe, I would hazard a guess there is/was more than just mouse still clogging the exhaust.
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