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2005 - How to ► wire your 4EAT to 5MT swap!

90432 Views 106 Replies 25 Participants Last post by  krausenoel
6
so, you've completed the mechanical part of your 4eat to 5mt swap and are stumped with the wiring. well, you've come to the right place. if you're able to get the complete bulkhead dash harness, do it (along with the 5MT ECU). otherwise, read on...

since i haven't been able to find anything clear online to be completely successful, i ordered me the FSM and picked my brain with a ton of wiring diagrams. i'll only be explaining my process as done on my 05MY FXT. though, the premise of this process should apply to other models as well.

for the wiring underneath the car and to keep things plug-n-play as much as possible, i reused the existing 4EAT harness and repinned as much as i could.


left: 4EAT sensor harness with the three sensors (torque converter turbine speed, front vehicle speed sensor 1, rear vehicle speed sensor 2)
right: 4EAT harness for inhibitor switch

i'm on a 5MT ECU, now. but even when i was running the 4EAT ECU, i still was not using the 4EAT TCM and was able to get around town. no matter what combination of those three plugs i had plugged into the TCM, my OBD-ii port wasn't functional. i couldn't use either my AP or a code reader tool unless i removed the TCM. so, i left it out. because of this, instead of running separate wires from the tranny into the cabin, i reused what wiring was already there that ran between the tranny and the TCM.


the following items are what will need to be tackled:
  • key interlock switch
  • clutch switch
  • reverse light switch
  • neutral safety switch (nss)
  • vehicle speed sensor (vss)


here's how to read the pin numbers for the Male and Female plugs...





key interlock switch
so you can remove your key from the ignition, you'll need to jump (forgot what pin numbers) the black and the white wire. i reused the wiring from the 4EAT shift lever assembly that included the lightbulb...




clutch switch
i used this so i can start the engine like on any other MT vehicle. from the clutch switch, i ran a couple wires down to pins 11 and 12 of the 4EAT inhibitor switch harness. this is to mimic Park/Neutral. (this is the only separate wiring i ran. i'm sure i could have used existing wiring like i did with my vss process, but that idea came later. and there were enough wires left to do so.)


reverse light switch
reverse switch and nss are joined to a 4-pin connector. i repinned 2 and 4 to pins 9 and 10 of the 4EAT inhibitor switch harness coupler.


neutral safety switch (nss)
reverse switch and nss are joined to a 4-pin connector. i repinned 1 and 3 to pins 1 and 4 of the 4EAT inhibitor switch harness coupler.


vehicle speed switch (vss)
(NOTE: it's important to understand that i'm using the wiring that ran between the tranny and TCM as a way to avoid running my own separate wiring. because of this method, i highly encourage not plugging in the TCM!)

the 5MT vss has three wires (signal, ground, power)...
speed sensor 1 of the 4EAT sensor wiring harness has two wires. i used one to run signal up to the cabin; the other to run ground up to the cabin. the speed sensor 2 of the 4EAT sensor wiring harness has three wires. i used one to run power up to the cabin. that covers all three wires of the vss up to the cabin.

vss pins (sensor on tranny):
pin 1 // signal
pin 2 // ground
pin 3 // power

4EAT sensor wiring pins (reused harness from inhibitor switch):
pin 14 // speed sensor 1 signal used for vss signal
pin 18 // speed sensor 1 ground [this wire is shielded to ground as well] used for vss ground
pin 9 // speed sensor 2 blahblahblah used for vss power

those three lines run up to the middle plug (medium-sized) that plugs to the TCM. (REMINDER: you're not to plug the TCM!)


^
tap from B55 plug (middle plug)
pin 6 // signal line
pin 15 // ground line (just ground this to chassis)
pin 24 // power line


^
to B56 plug (larger plug)
pin 1 // signal line (runs directly to both speedometer and ECU)
pin 31 or 21 // +12v IG ON line

(should you decided to keep the TCM, starting from the vss, you'll have to use another ground and power source. for the signal, you may still use pin 14 of the sensor wiring harness. for the MT, the speed signal goes directly to both the speedometer and ECU. for the AT, the speed signal goes to the TCU first, then to both speedometer and ECU.)



(this post will be updated as needed to better clarify exact plug identification pin/wiring colour, etc. as i go back and review diagrams, notes and pictures.)
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you can try. but in my case, there was no difference. even when mine was grounded, my AP still recognized it as a 4EAT ECM. I later removed the ground, then shortly after, swapped in a MT ECM. I now have the entire MT dash bulkhead harness.

just wondering.. is your Cruise light flashing?

try to get a hold of those in this thread that did the 6MT swap


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Seems like many that do this end up buying a 5MT harness - is that to just clean up the wiring or because it's better? Just seems odd that people do it AFTER successfully hacking up the wires of the 4EAT to work with the 6MT.



Anyone know if the harness from the actual JDM FSTI would work? Or is that a problem with the whole canbus vs OBD?
not sure about other guys. I just couldn't find a MT harness at the time of my tranny swap which is why I made the 4EAT harness work in the meantime. it was always my plan to get one.

I would think everything on the JDM harness would be reversed. that would seem like a nightmare to redo.

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Ah ok. How much cleaner does it make it? Doesn't the 5MT --> 6MT conversion also require some splicing/rewiring?

JDM...reversed. Did you mean in terms of the routing of the wiring? Hmmmmmm


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you would have to find out from those 6MT swappers. I only have a 5MT for now.

a chunk of the USDM dash harness runs between the dash and through the right fender into the engine bay as one piece. automatically, I imagine a bunch of the plugs on a JDM harness not lining up to much.


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Does anyone know if you can use a JDM Forester STI (SG9) bulk wiring harness for this conversion? Only reason I ask - it seems hard as #@&^ to find a USDM manual XT bulk wiring harness anywhere - let alone for the same year of your car you are swapping into. There are differences in the wiring harness between say, a 2005 and a 2006 (and 2004, etc.), correct?
that's why I mentioned it took me like over a year and a half to find my 05MY. idk if there were any differences between the 05 and 06-08 on the dash side, but there is at least a difference between the 04 and 05. climate control were a bit different, but one major key difference was the CC switch location. 05+ added the transponder key ignition. but I believe that can be disconnected from the whole bulkhead. 06+ added hill holder.

since I couldn't find a definitive answer anywhere, I stuck with my exact year to be safe.


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Yeah, that's what I was thinking too. But finding one is like..near impossible.

Curious, my '04 XT had hill holder. You sure the '05 didn't have it?
ahh.. I guess the 04 already had it then. maybe I'm thinking about something else with the tranny, can't remember. at least you don't have to worry about the immobilizer. but your year CC buttons are on the lower dash trim piece I believe. 05+ has it on the steering wheel. if you have to, you can merge the wires from your 4EAT harness to whichever other year you might pick up.

or

just follow this tutorial for now while your search continues.


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I had an '04 XT and have an '05 XT now - can confirm the CC is in different locations - you are correct, the '04 CC was on the lower dash trim.
since i'm now running an originally 5MT ECU (even though both sets of AT and MT maps are on all the ECUs) still with the 4EAT bulkhead harness, the 5MT ECU requires pin 34 of plug 134 (first plug on the left) to be grounded. pin 19 of plug 136 for the non-turbo 5MT ECU. i don't really understand how for the earlier subarus they refer to it as an identifier switch. i don't see that anywhere on the FSMs. it just seems like the MT ECUs just has an extra slot where ground needs to be (without any description) because the ATs and MTs are just wired a little differently. and it seems the older subarus were able to get away with being less fussy because they have more leeway than the newer, pickier subarus. i'm sure it's mostly an emissions thing.

no crazy fans and raised idle speeds as though i'm driving when i'm really idling. no switching back and forth between the ECU thinking i'm parking and driving while clutching and shifting gears. and no annoying CEL + blinking 'curse' light because the 4EAT is still looking for the TCM. no loopy engine RPMs when coming to a stop because the ECU thinks it's in Drive yet the shifter contradicts by saying it's in Neutral and then just dies (a few times) because the RPM dipped too low. this shiz was scary when i couldn't stop the car (no booster assist) from rolling forward, dodging a car in front of me.

(i really have ~40K mi less. i swapped to a 5MT gauge cluster.)

i got to test CC on a long stretch. worked both downhill and back uphill.
This pin 34 on Plug B134.. I have grounded this plug out both to Pin 2 on Plug B137 as its listed in the FSM diagram and have directly grounded it to a chasis ground and I cant get my car to accept that its now a 6MT instead of the 4EAT.. I have a VF39 and catless TBE, so the factory 4EAT tune is not an option for me, and the car was pissed on the limp home from the shop, I just wired the car so that the NSS was closed so I could start the car and limp it home and I am going to wire in the NSS/Clutch switch at home... As it sits, my AP sees my Vehicle profile as a 2004 AT Forester XT and I need it to see it as a MT to allow the proper tune to flash.
Wow.. what a great write up... just want I needed to get a grip on the wiring... Thank You !!!

Jeff
2
Just completed my 4EAT to JDM 6 speed & R180 swap.. this post helped me a lot.. Thank You !!

Couple of points regarding my install (04 FXT 4EAT):

1) Cruise Control
- To enable cruise I had to connect wires 11 & 12 together on the 4EAT inhibitor switch harness (instead of running them to the clutch switch). Cruise works with these wires connected but the engine will start no matter what position the clutch peddle is in.
- To enable cruise disable when clutch peddle is depressed, I inserted the clutch peddle switch (connector B107 in the image) to the wiring off of the stop light and brake switch (connector B65 in the image).

2) Enable Launch Control and Flat Foot Shifting

*** I am certified to tune my own cars using Cobb Accesstuner. I also tune using Romraider/ECUFlash.

*** This requires flashing the MT ROM to the AT ECM.. do so at your risk...it worked for me !!!

- First step is to enable the clutch switch to notify the ECM when the peddle is depressed, to do so, you must run a separate wire from clutch switch pin 2 (connector B107 in the image) to the ECM unit pin 1 on connector B134 on the ECM (not shown in image)

- If you are tuning with Cobb Accessport, unmarry the port from your ECM
- Obtain the stock ECM ROM calibration file for the MT ECM from the RomRaider site. (my case the stock AT ROM was A2ZJ201D, I used MT ROM: A2ZJ500I)
- Test write/flash the MT ROM file to your AT ECM, watch for any errors.
- If no errors, write/flash the ROM to your AT ECM
- If you are tuning with Cobb Accessport, marry the port to the AT ECM (which you just flashed the MT ROM onto)
- Enable Launch Control / FFS and set parameters in the tuning software.

Jeff

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Looking for anyone who as figured out how to get ABS to work with auto manual swap.... I want to understand how you achieved it... thanks

Update - I got ABS working simple as plugging in the TCM back in (only B54 & B56)... I had to cut the datalink wire (B56 12) to get Accessport reading ECU but that's it...
@TurboQueef Any chance you have a manual page you could reference for this so I don't muck it up on my car? I have the whole mechanical part done. Doing the wiring now, glad someone else has posted "recently". I would have been done alot sooner if I had a damn garage. It's a pain relying on weekends and cooperative weather. However, I did do some additional items in the process.
Ok I'm a little confused I got the mechanical parts stuff done now I can get the car to start and take the key out of the ignition but I have all the lights on check engine cruise control don't work ABS lights on and airbag light. And I have cut out at about 4500 RPMs I'm thinking it's from it not knowing it's in drive I don't have the inhabitor switch wires cuz I got mine from the junkyard I kind of got you guys on the wiring part I'm just not understanding maybe I just need to look at it and do it at the same time I don't know but it's a really good write-up I like it
Get into the wiring. I just finished mine this past year on an 04 FXT. I bought the iWire plugs to finish it completely with the auto harness but didn't end up using them because I was able to source a manual harness, ECU, ABS module etc. I still have the plugs/wiring if you're interested in it at all. You can reuse/rewire some of your auto harness to make it work as well. Run through this thread again, it'll likely be more clear when you get into reading along and looking at the actual condition on the car.
iWire plugs

I do know, switching to the full manual harness, I also needed to swap the ABS module. I wouldn't expect that to be an issue if you're still using the auto harness, and as someone else pointed out, splicing out one specific wire.

That said, I was also able to get mine to work with the auto harness, temp wiring and test drive it before swapping to manual. Somewhere along the way I lost my cruise control. It activates from the dash, but doesn't work otherwise.
Get into the wiring. I just finished mine this past year on an 04 FXT. I bought the iWire plugs to finish it completely with the auto harness but didn't end up using them because I was able to source a manual harness, ECU, ABS module etc. I still have the plugs/wiring if you're interested in it at all. You can reuse/rewire some of your auto harness to make it work as well. Run through this thread again, it'll likely be more clear when you get into reading along and looking at the actual condition on the car.
iWire plugs

I do know, switching to the full manual harness, I also needed to swap the ABS module. I wouldn't expect that to be an issue if you're still using the auto harness, and as someone else pointed out, splicing out one specific wire.

That said, I was also able to get mine to work with the auto harness, temp wiring and test drive it before swapping to manual. Somewhere along the way I lost my cruise control. It activates from the dash, but doesn't work otherwise.
I just need to get the car to think it's in dr and speed sensor
Basically, yes. I only offer the wire harness stuff to make it a cleaner install. I don't need it, if you're interested shoot me a PM and we can discuss further. shipping and a few bucks for time/burden is all I'd be looking for.

Also note, keeping the auto harness and ECU, you may still want to get a tune to allow for the idle speed to be a bit higher than it would be with an actual manual harness/ECU. People often end up having problems with the car stalling out rolling to a stop.
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