However, I wonder how things behave on post '05 (only euro?) models employing canbus blah-blah between ECU-TCU, at least on paper.
^Excellent writeup! I'm also wondering whether this applies to canbus/6mt swaps as well?
^And that doesnt throw it into limp mode? Cruise control and ABS still function properly?
Yes, i have a 5MT baja, i swapped in an H6 from a 4EAT Outback Sedan. runs and drives.sorry. i'm trying to understand that - you swapped an H6 engine into your already 5MT Baja?
assuming, you're working with similar wiring to the 4EAT, what pins are you connected to at the AT harness? if 11 & 12, they're the same for both P and N (which i used for the clutch switch to be able to start the engine). for the NSS, you need to use pin 1 & 4 at the AT harness.
if you did just that, i'd check to make sure the NSS is good. they do go bad and aren't too much to replace.
yes, the 11 and 12 pins will keep it from starting if they arent bridged, thats just the ignition interrupt, i suppose i can connect that to the clutch in switch. but that isnt really my issue so much as the computer knowing if it is in neutral or in gear. i'll keep messing with it i guesseven in the AT, Neutral & Gnd are never connected. the TCU looks on pins 11 & 12 in order to be able to start the engine. That's either P or N. Did you include the TCU in your H6 harness as well?
either way, just connect your NSS to your clutch switch. when the clutch is up, that should physically open the circuit.
if you still have the MT-side wiring, i would merge the H6 wiring into it. it's complete and less headache.