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05MY Second SG6 4EAT > JDM 5MT
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so, you've completed the mechanical part of your 4eat to 5mt swap and are stumped with the wiring. well, you've come to the right place. if you're able to get the complete bulkhead dash harness, do it (along with the 5MT ECU). otherwise, read on...

since i haven't been able to find anything clear online to be completely successful, i ordered me the FSM and picked my brain with a ton of wiring diagrams. i'll only be explaining my process as done on my 05MY FXT. though, the premise of this process should apply to other models as well.

for the wiring underneath the car and to keep things plug-n-play as much as possible, i reused the existing 4EAT harness and repinned as much as i could.


left: 4EAT sensor harness with the three sensors (torque converter turbine speed, front vehicle speed sensor 1, rear vehicle speed sensor 2)
right: 4EAT harness for inhibitor switch

i'm on a 5MT ECU, now. but even when i was running the 4EAT ECU, i still was not using the 4EAT TCM and was able to get around town. no matter what combination of those three plugs i had plugged into the TCM, my OBD-ii port wasn't functional. i couldn't use either my AP or a code reader tool unless i removed the TCM. so, i left it out. because of this, instead of running separate wires from the tranny into the cabin, i reused what wiring was already there that ran between the tranny and the TCM.


the following items are what will need to be tackled:
  • key interlock switch
  • clutch switch
  • reverse light switch
  • neutral safety switch (nss)
  • vehicle speed sensor (vss)


here's how to read the pin numbers for the Male and Female plugs...





key interlock switch
so you can remove your key from the ignition, you'll need to jump (forgot what pin numbers) the black and the white wire. i reused the wiring from the 4EAT shift lever assembly that included the lightbulb...




clutch switch
i used this so i can start the engine like on any other MT vehicle. from the clutch switch, i ran a couple wires down to pins 11 and 12 of the 4EAT inhibitor switch harness. this is to mimic Park/Neutral. (this is the only separate wiring i ran. i'm sure i could have used existing wiring like i did with my vss process, but that idea came later. and there were enough wires left to do so.)


reverse light switch
reverse switch and nss are joined to a 4-pin connector. i repinned 2 and 4 to pins 9 and 10 of the 4EAT inhibitor switch harness coupler.


neutral safety switch (nss)
reverse switch and nss are joined to a 4-pin connector. i repinned 1 and 3 to pins 1 and 4 of the 4EAT inhibitor switch harness coupler.


vehicle speed switch (vss)
(NOTE: it's important to understand that i'm using the wiring that ran between the tranny and TCM as a way to avoid running my own separate wiring. because of this method, i highly encourage not plugging in the TCM!)

the 5MT vss has three wires (signal, ground, power)...
speed sensor 1 of the 4EAT sensor wiring harness has two wires. i used one to run signal up to the cabin; the other to run ground up to the cabin. the speed sensor 2 of the 4EAT sensor wiring harness has three wires. i used one to run power up to the cabin. that covers all three wires of the vss up to the cabin.

vss pins (sensor on tranny):
pin 1 // signal
pin 2 // ground
pin 3 // power

4EAT sensor wiring pins (reused harness from inhibitor switch):
pin 14 // speed sensor 1 signal used for vss signal
pin 18 // speed sensor 1 ground [this wire is shielded to ground as well] used for vss ground
pin 9 // speed sensor 2 blahblahblah used for vss power

those three lines run up to the middle plug (medium-sized) that plugs to the TCM. (REMINDER: you're not to plug the TCM!)


^
tap from B55 plug (middle plug)
pin 6 // signal line
pin 15 // ground line (just ground this to chassis)
pin 24 // power line


^
to B56 plug (larger plug)
pin 1 // signal line (runs directly to both speedometer and ECU)
pin 31 or 21 // +12v IG ON line

(should you decided to keep the TCM, starting from the vss, you'll have to use another ground and power source. for the signal, you may still use pin 14 of the sensor wiring harness. for the MT, the speed signal goes directly to both the speedometer and ECU. for the AT, the speed signal goes to the TCU first, then to both speedometer and ECU.)



(this post will be updated as needed to better clarify exact plug identification pin/wiring colour, etc. as i go back and review diagrams, notes and pictures.)
 

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05MY Second SG6 4EAT > JDM 5MT
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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
since i'm now running an originally 5MT ECU (even though both sets of AT and MT maps are on all the ECUs) still with the 4EAT bulkhead harness, the 5MT ECU requires pin 34 of plug 134 (first plug on the left) to be grounded. pin 19 of plug 136 for the non-turbo 5MT ECU. i don't really understand how for the earlier subarus they refer to it as an identifier switch. i don't see that anywhere on the FSMs. it just seems like the MT ECUs just has an extra slot where ground needs to be (without any description) because the ATs and MTs are just wired a little differently. and it seems the older subarus were able to get away with being less fussy because they have more leeway than the newer, pickier subarus. i'm sure it's mostly an emissions thing.

no crazy fans and raised idle speeds as though i'm driving when i'm really idling. no switching back and forth between the ECU thinking i'm parking and driving while clutching and shifting gears. and no annoying CEL + blinking 'curse' light because the 4EAT is still looking for the TCM. no loopy engine RPMs when coming to a stop because the ECU thinks it's in Drive yet the shifter contradicts by saying it's in Neutral and then just dies (a few times) because the RPM dipped too low. this shiz was scary when i couldn't stop the car (no booster assist) from rolling forward, dodging a car in front of me.


(i really have ~40K mi less. i swapped to a 5MT gauge cluster.)

i got to test CC on a long stretch. worked both downhill and back uphill.
 

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05MY Second SG6 4EAT > JDM 5MT
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
sorry. i'm short for time, but just really quickl...

i mostly left colour coding out, because Subaru seems to be all over the place with them. i'd follow pin numbers instead. once you get in there, the above will make more sense.

if you have any particulars, just lmk.
 

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05MY Second SG6 4EAT > JDM 5MT
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
okay post swap i will keep you posted and confirm it my self. maybethis will be come a 4EAT to 5MT/6MT wiring thread. lol Thank you.
sounds good!



A few questions if you would be obliged to answer, So I have the NSS and reverse lights wired, that was easy. Onto the VSS, what way should I be looking at the harness to count the pins?(clip up or down etc.) On the TCU and the VSS. It also appears that my middle and larger TCU plugs have open pin spots, am I counting those as well? If so the middle and larger plug have open pin spots where some vital connections are needed I.e. signal and power on the larger.
open slots still count.

i think it would be helpful for everyone to post their setups including model year, model, and trim line. what's yours? if i get a chance tomorrow, i'll check mine out. otherwise, won't be till this weekend.
 

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05MY Second SG6 4EAT > JDM 5MT
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
ohh.. sorry. i'm almost always viewing this site from my mobile app. i'll try to check it out later today. otherwise, tomorrow.
 

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05MY Second SG6 4EAT > JDM 5MT
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
i have pics. sorry for the delay. was really busy.

i know it took me a couple miles before my speed-/odometer registered anything. make sure you have a pretty good connection, that continuity is good. i'll update main post with images...
 

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05MY Second SG6 4EAT > JDM 5MT
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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Nice writeup!

However, I wonder how things behave on post '05 (only euro?) models employing canbus blah-blah between ECU-TCU, at least on paper.
^
sorry, i can't confirm.

Excellent writeup! I'm also wondering whether this applies to canbus/6mt swaps as well?
^
i think there was an earlier post with someone trying a 6MT.

And that doesnt throw it into limp mode? Cruise control and ABS still function properly?
^
were you responding to forester06x?
 

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05MY Second SG6 4EAT > JDM 5MT
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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
sorry. i'm out of town. i'll try to see what i can do when i fly back home in a day or two. but my harness is fully wrapped. also, i had first unpinned all my wires before i decided to reuse them in which i didn't remember where they all went, so some colours might not match up to their pin designations. but i'll go through my notes when i get back home.
 

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05MY Second SG6 4EAT > JDM 5MT
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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
ohh.. i'm glad to hear. i was actually going through what photos i took and my notes. notes just shows what i originally posted, and unfortunately, i didn't get any snaps of that harness.

will you eventually be getting the DCCD working?
 

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05MY Second SG6 4EAT > JDM 5MT
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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
sorry. i'm trying to understand that - you swapped an H6 engine into your already 5MT Baja?

assuming, you're working with similar wiring to the 4EAT, what pins are you connected to at the AT harness? if 11 & 12, they're the same for both P and N (which i used for the clutch switch to be able to start the engine). for the NSS, you need to use pin 1 & 4 at the AT harness.

if you did just that, i'd check to make sure the NSS is good. they do go bad and aren't too much to replace.
 

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05MY Second SG6 4EAT > JDM 5MT
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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
sorry. i'm away from home often, so i don't have access to my resources. but if you already have a MT, i do know the clutch switch is wired differently - there's a relay inline. since i don't have access to my resources, i can't give more details than that. but since you do already have a MT, i would think it's already wired, no?
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
even in the AT, Neutral & Gnd are never connected. the TCU looks on pins 11 & 12 in order to be able to start the engine. That's either P or N. Did you include the TCU in your H6 harness as well?

either way, just connect your NSS to your clutch switch. when the clutch is up, that should physically open the circuit.

if you still have the MT-side wiring, i would merge the H6 wiring into it. it's complete and less headache.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
if you want the ECU (AT) knowing whether it's in P or N, it's pins 3 & 4 for P, and pins 1 & 4 for N. the AT ECU will need to know that to adjust fuel curve between P, N and in gear. but, that needs to go to the TCU which is relayed to the AT ECU.
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
So i havrnt sifted through all this but from the beginning when your obd2 port wasnt functional its because of the plug from your shifter in the car has an ignition inhibitor switch. If you dont jump it out or plug in the shifter temporarily, the ign on circuit on obd2 will not function making a flash tool think car is off......you may have already gotten by that...sorryif its covered.
^
all i did was pull the TCU out, and it worked. it also solved the wacky idling and shifting issues i was having by keeping the TCU in.

For the speed sensor, i used the three wires from the origonal speed sensor harness that went to the rear speed sensor....theres 3 on your tranny....one to ground (which there is a spot for on the old harness, and the other two to the speed sensor. My odometer works just like normal on my 09 with an 04 6mt.
^
those sensors on the 6MT are very similar to the 4EAT in comparison to the 5MT and 4EAT.


Only thing i havr non functional is abs which is causing in operability of cruise control. I think i know a work around but have been too lazy to desl with it. Otherwise i have no codes on my stock auto ecu with a 6MT
^
are you CAN-BUS btw?

my CC works. idk about ABS. i haven't tried it out. i'm still actively looking for a bulkhead harness for my year anyway.
 

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05MY Second SG6 4EAT > JDM 5MT
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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
4EAT to 6MT WIRING CONFIRMED!!! This is a universal write up for 4eat to 5mt as well as 6mt. Just completed my swap and it works flawlessly.
^
glad to hear. congrats!

False. Prior to the swap my cruise control always worked even though the ABS was not working..However, I am interested as to how to get my cruise control to work..
^
i have an ongoing timing issue due to my lightened flywheel which i don't have the time to get a tune for. but every time i've had a CEL for any sort of issue, i've noticed it always kept my CC from ever working. did you never have any CEL with your non-functioning ABS prior to your swap? and do you have any CEL codes, now?
 
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