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2013 2.5X Touring 5spd Manual
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Been experiencing a hesitation between 900 and 2000 for the last month or so. Sometimes a full 2 to 3 second delay before acceleration.
Drives well over 2000 but now the check engine light has finally come on.

Have checked fuel filter (good) and replaced air filter
Have not done spark plugs however (tight spots)

220000km and head gasket was done at 200


thank you for any help or advice

take care

Jake
 

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1999 Forester S 5-Speed Manual
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Your first thing is to have your Check Engine codes read and report back with that they say. Advance Auto Parts and AutoZone are just two places that will scan your Diagnostics free of charge.

It's hard to say without knowing the code, but the first two things that come to mind is a spark plug and/or ignition wires fouling out (cheap fix) or the catalytic converter has failed and is clogging (not so cheap).

Let us know the codes, and we'll do our best to help you out from there.

Cheers,
Matt
 

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1999 Forester S 5-Speed Manual
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Thanks Matt...yeah a cat clog would suck.
Found out my plugs/wires were done less than 30k ago....
possible moisture in the tank/gas?

I am going to try the additive 1st to see if it helps

Rislone Super Concentrated Water Remover Fuel Dryer
Water Remover Fuel Dryer (p/n 34735) | Products | Rislone - Premium Automotive Chemicals


J
I'd honestly get the codes checked before spending money on ANY additive. Moisture in fuel is a rarity, and would typically cause a more-noticable misfire or engine stall. The one time that did occur to me with a 1993 Saturn SL2, it didn't even throw any codes - just stalled the engine.

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Closest autozone is over an hour away. I have added the 5$ fuel dryer and about 80% of the problem has disappeared. Have disconnected the battery and the check engine light has not returned. Will still be having it checked thoroughly if it's not gone by Wed.

Thank you
J
 

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Hmmm....it might ACTUALLY be a case of bad fuel then. I'd run your tank down as close to empty as possible, then refuel with a different brand from a different station and see if that clears everything up.

I just had a similar issue with my other car (2004 Saturn Vue 2.2 Manual) on Friday night. We had torrential rain here (about 11" in 48 hours) and after either my wife or I accidentally hitting a deep puddle, the Check Engine lamp came on. Code that came up was P0340 - Camshaft Position Sensor. However, the GM 2.2L ECOTEC motors don't use one - they rely on a pulse from the Ignition Control Module to signal the ECU as to what position the camshaft is in. When I started my car this morning to take it over to my mechanic, the MIL turned off and stayed off the entire time I was driving. Mechanic said since the light is off, there's really nothing to diagnose as long as the engine is performing normally, which it was.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
2004X Hesitation part 2 ...caused from rear ending??

Can being rear ended impact the emergency shut off for a fuel pump?

Last week my concerns came from my car hesitating upon acceleration and some bucking between the 1200 and 2000 rpm mark.
Plugs and air filter are new, fuel filter has been checked.
After the check engine light came on, I put in some fuel dryer and it greatly relieved the problem up to 80%...check light came off but only for a week.
It's back...and idle is dropping to 400/500 periodically.
Also the revs stay up for a second or 2 after letting go of throttle.
Autozone is over 4hrs away so getting codes checked is not attainable right now.

I was hit from behind with medium force at the end of the summer and come to think of it, that's when this stuff started happening.
Is a bang like that capable of causing these issues?

wondering if this is a possible fuel pump problem (or clogged cat conv)


thank you

J
 

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2004 Forester 2.5X 5 speed manual
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Could be your ignition coil dying as well, they can be had for fairly cheap online. Were repairs made to your car following the rear ender by an insurance approved body shop? If they were then the repair facility may be responsible for fixing the issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have not had it in for repairs yet....there was barely any damage other than the vibrating from the rear bumper cover. More annoying than cosmetic. The claim has been made and its all covered tho since I was not at fault. I am taking it 2moro for re-assessment.
Is an ignition coil or fuel pump something I can do myself...or too complex?


thanks gang :)

J
 

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If a shop is that far, I'd consider just picking up a cheap code reader, they're only about $25. Or you could pickup a vagcom or tactrix cable to read the ecu with a laptop. The code will tell you exactly what "system" in the car is having a problem. It's possibly something like the charcoal canister which is behind the rear pass side wheel iirc, or possibly even the timing belt skipped a tooth, hard to know where to even begin looking without the code.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
2004X Hesitiation....got the code :)

Finally was able to have the codes read.....(reader is $75 in BC, Canada)
P0303...Cyl 3 Misfire
which could be...

code P0303 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:

Faulty spark plug or wire
Faulty coil (pack)
Faulty oxygen sensor(s)
Faulty fuel injector
Burned exhaust valve
Faulty catalytic converter(s)
Running out of fuel
Poor compression
Defective computer

My shop, before I had them read said I should have 30 000 still left on the plugs, since the head gasket was recently done at 220 000k.

Should I be able to have them check this free of charge?
...or is that an unreasonable request?

thank you
J
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
....moisture on the plug and was shorting out.
So was told I needed one new plug and new wires.
No prob...will do next payday.
When putting the plug back in however, the car works fine.

Wondering if I really need the wires now and not just one new plug

J
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Nope....needed the wires more than the plug. problem solved :)

J
 
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