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03 Forester XS and I my girl's 04 Outback H6
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alrighty I’m embarking on this mission and first things first; I gotta get this lateral bolt off. It is certainly rusted living up to its reputation as difficult to remove.

Ive been soaking it for days with PB Blaster and the thing won’t budge even with a long piece of pipe as leverage on the breaker bar. The breaker bad was even beginning to bend.

Next move is to try to heat it up with a Mapp torch. The nut on the other side appears seized and will need to come off but what’s this line going to the brakes?

How can I remove this line so I can add heat to this area without damaging it? I already removed the bracket being held by a 12 mm but it’s still in the way.

I gotta old license plate to protect the boot above but not sure it will hold up. I would love to get this entire hub out without damaging the boot. Any thoughts before I try more things?

Knowing myself I could damage something so I’m posting here before moving too far ahead. Thanks!
Tire Automotive tire Hood Automotive lighting Motor vehicle

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper Automotive exterior Wood
 

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2004 FXT 4EAT
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I had to replace my rear bearing a few years ago. That bolt is notorious for not coming out (even if you do manage to get the nut off). I just cut the sucker in 3 pieces and ordered a replacement bot, nut and washer from the dealership (was surprisingly cheap) and a control arm (incl bushings) from rockauto
 

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That line that is in the way on the other side (last picture) is your parking brake cable.

You're doing the wheel bearing? Do you have a bearing driver set? They changed the design on the 2009+ models. But that one is a bit of a bugger to do without the right tools!

Eric does a pretty good job explaining everything... (first thing he talks about is the bolt you're fighting with) He's in the rust belt and I hope that yours isn't as bad as he's dealing with...

 

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2001 Forester S, 4EAT
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I have a Dewalt cordless impact driver, is that different from impact gun? I can’t imagine it having enough torque to turn this rusty bolt.
Without knowing how much torque the Dewalt is capable of, no way of knowing if it's even possible. You're going to need something that can produce anywhere from 500-1000 ft/lbs. I use a air impact driver and it peaks at 500 ft/lbs and it's considered a light weight.
 

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03 Forester XS and I my girl's 04 Outback H6
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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
@GusV I actually watched this video 2 years ago! I dont have ”big nasty” to go to town on it. That’s an air compressor based hammer tool right? What’s it called exactly, luckily my rust isn’t as bad as the one in South Main Auto’s video. Cutting it is a possibility with an angle grinder I would guess would be the tool to use.

It’s pretty darn rusted into the long piece back of the whole hub so I’m concerned cutting will only help a little and perhaps I could hammer the remaining bolt out of there.

I’ve had luck with super rusty things in the past with enough effort and heat from a torch. Is there a way to remove that parking break cable so I can make that rust glow?

For the wheel bearing, I’m not gonna fuss with a press. It’s gonna be a lot easier to just grab a used hub with a good wheel bearing in there for $50 from my local subie shop.

@bman400 that makes sense,I highly doubt my Dewalt will do the trick. I might have to ask my friend if he has something. I may look at harbor freight. I’m curious how much $$$ an air compressor and impact gun would set me back.
 

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2009 FXT and 2006 WRX wagon
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You will need an impact wrench, cordless or pneumatic to help here. The nut will not be the problem based on the looks of it. A few hits with the impact wrench and it will come out no problem. Hopefully you're filling the void where the long bolt's body is exposed with rust penetrant.

Your biggest problem is going to be the long bolt itself. I would go buy replacement long bolts and nuts and return what you don't end up using. You may even end up replacing the bushing(s) if they are seized to the long bolt.

Be patient, this will take a few days.

And when you reassemble that long bolt, lather it liberally with anti-seize and you'll save yourself the heartache for next time.
 

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MY05 Forester 2.5 XT 5MT
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+1 Impact Wrench should help here if heat doesn't.

Impact Drivers are for putting screws into timber.
Impact Wrenches are for thicker bolts going to much higher torque values

I would assume a corded electric impact wrench would be cheaper than an air compressor and Air impact wrench but air compressor can run an air chisel too....
 

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2012 Forester 2.5X
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As Foz_Wgn said....lots of other great advice here too, love the South Main Auto channeltube too! I hate road salting for this reason. Do yourself a favor and have a shop press a new bearing into the hub for you, I would only install used bearing in emergency to get me home....don't want to do this job again due to used bearings.
 

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03 Forester XS and I my girl's 04 Outback H6
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Your biggest problem is going to be the long bolt itself. I would go buy replacement long bolts and nuts and return what you don't end up using. You may even end up replacing the bushing(s) if they are seized to the long bolt.
Replacing the bolt and bushings is definitely happening.
Hopefully you're filling the void where the long bolt's body is exposed with rust penetrant.
I certainly am!
+1 Impact Wrench should help here if heat doesn't.
Getting heat in there seems tricky without damaging anything. Is that parking brake cable removable at all? I'd like to get some heat in there if possible.

Regardless I made the decision and have added this to the Arsenal:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WTQW7JA
Pneumatic tool Handheld power drill Drill Hammer drill Tool

It should be here by Friday, I'm pretty excited to see how powerful this thing is. If I don't like it I may end up returning it.

I do still like the idea of getting an air compressor for the various tools it can use other than just the impact wrench but it may be a lot pricier. How do Air compressors work? do you need 120V outlet to run them? I would need it be a bit portable since I have no electrical outlets nearby.

My friend had one built into his work truck, but I hate to ask. I feel like I've exhausted all the help I can ask from him.

In the mean time I keep putting PB blaster on there, and hope to tear into this with the 700 ft lb Dewalt Impact Wrench after work on Friday.
Do yourself a favor and have a shop press a new bearing into the hub for you, I would only install used bearing in emergency to get me home....don't want to do this job again due to used bearings.
You speak a lot of sense there, I may end up doing as you suggest depending on the cost. With all the rust, seems just getting the bolts off to be a big enough hurdle as it is so I want the easy route but I'm sure with a new bearing and the job done right will be worth it. Let's see if and how much easier this impact wrench makes my life.

I still have the struts and cross member to tackle and each side will need the rusty lateral bolt removed and replaced with a new bolt and bushings. This is gonna be a fun one!
 

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2001 Forester S, 4EAT
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I do still like the idea of getting an air compressor for the various tools it can use other than just the impact wrench but it may be a lot pricier. How do Air compressors work? do you need 120V outlet to run them? I would need it be a bit portable since I have no electrical outlets nearby.

My friend had one built into his work truck, but I hate to ask. I feel like I've exhausted all the help I can ask from him.
My motivation for getting air compressor stemmed from having 3 cars + motorcycle. Needing to maintain tire pressures using 12V portable compressors were a nuisance. I started with a 3gal portable compressor as the next step, proved nearly useless: Too loud and large tires used more air than then 3 gal tank so was waiting for the compressor to keep up. I then moved to 10Gal unit. And that is what I use now. Holds enough air for me to spin wheels off when I do my annual tire rotation of all 3 vehicles. Monthly air pressure check of all vehicles. I use it for bleeding brakes on 3 cars + motorcycle.

Yes it just plugs into 120v outlet in the garage.

Given you need portable, I would skip the air compressor. The size of the tank comes into play when you're banging on frozen bolts, you'll drain the tank easily, especially my 10 gal unit, it has wheels and is portable. But after 2-5 squeeze of the trigger on the air impact wrench, you'll drain the tank and have to wheel it to an outlet to refill the tank.

If you had like a 80 gal tank, you're better off, but then 50-80 gal air compressor are not what I call portable.

Your choice of the Dewalt battery impact is a good choice. It's portable and hopefully will be enough.

Good luck.
 

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03 Forester XS and I my girl's 04 Outback H6
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
@bman400 Thank you for explaining all that about air compressors! I certainly want a good one whenever I am able to settle down with an actual garage in my life.

I got the impact wrench but have not been able to give it a shot at removing this bolt yet. I finally have a day off to do it today and then it ends up raining all day long, so thats a little disappointing, oh well. I'll get after it soon enough!

I'm curious does anyone have an opinion on battery's for a tool like this?

I believe if you buy the whole package it comes with the 5 amp hour 20v Max XR battery. I bought the tool only and I just have the regular old 20V Max Lithium Ion ones. I'm assuming that just means it will last longer before dying. From my limited research it seems the "XR" is referring to the brushless tool, not the power I believe.

Would the power of the impact wrench be lessened at all by not using a 5AH battery?
Pneumatic tool Green Drill Computer keyboard Yellow
 

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MY05 Forester 2.5 XT 5MT
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The Voltage relative to the maximum voltage determines the oomph the tool has.

The Amp Hours determines how long it has that oomph for. So no it wont affect how effective your tool is, just how long it is effective for.

Hope that makes sense.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Turns out the new toy was not able to do the trick.
I was able to get after it this evening and it's not budging even with the impact wrench.
I've liberally applied PB Blaster all over every part of this bolt several days over the last week and a half.
I attempted to add heat with mapp torch but couldn't torch long enough, things got too hot. The license plate I was using as a heat shield started to get hotter than I like so I didn't go any further as it was too close to damageable things like the cv boot.
Any thoughts?
I'm I using my new impact wrench correctly? It just wont budge and the tool is on it's highest setting.
I really don't to have to break down and pay a shop to do my dirty work if I can help it.
 

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You are using the impact wrench correctly.

That is frustrating to hear the toy didn't do its thing - Especially when they quote "
"1/2 inch cordless impact wrench has up to 700 ft-lbs of max torque and 1200 ft-lbs of max breakaway torque"

If you want to avoid heat, the next option would be cutting the bolt as it appears it is only threaded on the end to a nut and passes through the rest of the parts with no threads so perhaps splitting/cutting the nut is an option, then air hammer/ hammer and chisel the bolt out? But that really is not a nice job to do and I would be inclined to let someone else deal with it at that point.... You may be looking at new bushes for the arms too.

I ended up paying someone to change the bushings and let them fight with the bolts. The poor guy spent 9 hours on that bolt on just 1 side of my Forester......

Hopefully someone else can come up with some ideas........

Would Amazon let you return the toy if you wished? If you have a power outlet nearby, what is Harbor Freight's returns policy like, if you could use a mains powered impact wrench if those are more powerful ?

It might be worth talking to your neighbour with the air compressor on a truck you mentioned and see if he has an air powered impact wrench and or air chisel/air hammer (Same thing) you could make use of ?

It might be worth searching Nasioc and other Subaru forums in case there is a trick to that bolt ? The Forester and Impreza both have those bolts. I'm not sure of the Legacy/Outback setup and if that is different

On the plus side, if you manage to get this bolt out.........Since you've done a head gasket job already, you're 2/3rd's of the way to being a Subaru technician - Just need to rebuild a shortblock and you're pretty much an honorary Subaru Specialist Technician :LOL:
 

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is the nut off on the other end? you should be able to fit the socket over the nut by moving the parking brake cable slightly.

My guess is that the bolt is seized to one or both bushings. Worst case, and it's slightly possible, is that it's also seized to the knuckle.

I could be wrong and I understand your concern with the CV boot, but I think as long as you're aiming the mapp torch away from what you don't want to get torched, you'll be fine. I've once torched the trailing arm bushing that's in the same knuckle until it melted off and the boot remained fine. It really does take cycles of heat, rust penetrant and impacting over and over. You can even impact it both tightening and loosening since the nut is off and you're just trying to break the seizing. If you keep trying and it just isn't coming out, you'll probably have to cut the long bolt between the lateral link and knuckle. I think I previously said you'll probably have to replace the bushings. I have a few spare old ones if you want them just message me. Once you cut the bolt on the side of the bolt head, use the nut as a "puller" by tightening it so the remaining long bolt body is moved within the knuckle. Or you can cut the nut side and impact the bolt head - vice versa. The goal here is to just not have both bushings preventing the removal. Once you break the seizing, it's just a matter of finessing it out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
That is frustrating to hear the toy didn't do its thing - Especially when they quote "
"1/2 inch cordless impact wrench has up to 700 ft-lbs of max torque and 1200 ft-lbs of max breakaway torque"
You're not kidding!
the next option would be cutting the bolt
Yeah, I'm definitely considering it. I'm a little concerned though if I'm not able to get it out and will need to bring it to a shop anyway. I assume there is no way to tow a car on jack stands right?
You may be looking at new bushes for the arms too.
The bushings are definitely toast and need to be replaced.
I ended up paying someone to change the bushings and let them fight with the bolts. The poor guy spent 9 hours on that bolt on just 1 side of my Forester.
Another reason I'm scared to bring it to a shop. I was quoted 1 1/2 hours per side just to replace the lateral bolts at $120 per hour and I'm afraid with all the rust that could quickly snowball so DIY is preferred!
Would Amazon let you return the toy if you wished?
Yeah totally, Amazon is easy to return to. Harbor Freight is pretty easy too, I could check that out. My buddy could possibly throw me a cord from over his fence. I'm actually going to see if he has any ideas as well
It might be worth talking to your neighbour with the air compressor on a truck you mentioned and see if he has an air powered impact wrench and or air chisel/air hammer
He might come through, he knows I ran into that road block with impact wrench and said he'd come by sometime soon and possibly help. same guy that got that broken head bolt out so I'm hopeful he has some ideas.
It might be worth searching Nasioc and other Subaru forums in case there is a trick to that bolt
Great idea! I need to do this! So challenging right now fitting all of this between my full time on my feet all day job, but I shall overcome!
On the plus side, if you manage to get this bolt out.........Since you've done a head gasket job already, you're 2/3rd's of the way to being a Subaru technician - Just need to rebuild a shortblock and you're pretty much an honorary Subaru Specialist Technician :LOL:
Hell yeah! So true, I've actually thought about applying to Subaru but not sure I wanna be a mechanic all day long and then still have my own car to work on after work, but I sure would learn a bunch. I really do love learning the nuts and bolts of all this car stuff. I feel like next time I buy a used car I will now what to look out for way better than before.
Is the nut off on the other end? you should be able to fit the socket over the nut by moving the parking brake cable slightly.
No the nut is still on but great idea! I'll see if I can impact wrench it off, that might give me something to hammer on and hopefully loosen it from within the knuckle and the bushings
but I think as long as you're aiming the mapp torch away from what you don't want to get torched
Thanks dude, you give me a bit more confidence and trying a bit more heat with this endeavor
If you keep trying and it just isn't coming out, you'll probably have to cut the long bolt between the lateral link and knuckle.
I'll save this as a last resort, I'm gonna give it some more love with the torch and impact. I like your idea of going forward and reverse as well to break the seizing.

I have a few spare old ones if you want them just message me
I appreciate the offer! are they used old ones? I should probably grab new ones I assume right?

It really does take cycles of heat, rust penetrant and impacting over and over.
Thanks, this gives me more confidence too . I am pretty a pretty stubborn individual. I do believe if I just keep at it long enough I will emerge victorious.

How badly do the bushings seize to the bolt? If I just completely melt the bushing as you did will eventually the bolt just free up from that spot?

I really do believe this bolt is rusted through out the exposed part of the knuckle and where goes inside the knuckle so it's pretty darn gnarly!

it's 9:30pm, and I got work at 8:00am so I'm gonna try and give this a few more whacks and call it a night.

Thanks for chiming in with your help y'all!
 
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