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'08 Forester 2.5X Sports 5MT
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How about windshields? has anybody every done it themselves. Best quote I got so far was $209, it's got the heating element too. Kind of stinks, looks like after that I'm about $500 put into this car to keep it going and its still got the leak. But oh well, I'm not ready stop driving this thing just yet. I really don't want the hassle of a new used car and fixing all the new things wrong with it lol. This XS is pretty nice other than the issues it has. :)
Windshield $50 or $100 deductible on CO auto insurance doesn't add a whole lot to the monthly premium...might be worth looking into?
 

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03 Forester XS and I my girl's 04 Outback H6
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Discussion Starter #42
@TMX Thanks for explaining all that. Oh man, I just dont think I'm up for the head gasket job. Sounds way above my head. I remember watching youtube videos on it and seeing all the many many parts to take apart and put back together. Even with a garage I feel like it would be part for months and too many things would go wrong. As someone earlier said, Oil is cheap! Coolant isn't too bad either and these leaks seem small, there isn't much oil spot beneath where I park my car. Just a tiny little patch.

I think I'll just find some copper antisieze and not put too much more thought into the grease.

@tcsubie24 Thats a great idea! I'll look into that, I wonder if they would flag me if I initiated a windshield repair right after adding it to my insurance. I may add it and wait a month or two.

Anyone have any thoughts on seals for the wheel bearing? Anyone ever reuse them or know where to pick up a cheap kit with all the seals and maybe the snap ring? Does it matter if they are OEM?
 

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MY05 Forester 2.5 XT 5MT
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I would get the seals personally, so if the old ones are casualties during the process, it isn't a problem and wont hold up the job. Looking at the link to the seal kit, there is usually a sachet of grease included for the seals...........Or so I thought anyway. No mention or pic of such in the link

In theory you can reuse the snap ring.......... If you can remove it without any problems. For the cost of the snap ring, which you can probably get aftermarket, I would get one just in case.

If the head gasket leak is external only and you don't have vehicle inspections over there, I would do what you are and just run it, while topping off the fluids, as long as the leaks aren't major.

For major wok, invest in a a set of coloured sharpies I think they're called in the US. Basically permanent markers and mark each end of connectors and hoses etc, so when you're putting it back together, you can match the colours. Sets of bolts/fasteners are being bagged up and labelled, for example like the oil pan bolts, so everything should go back together fairly smoothly too - With a bit of luck
 

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03 Forester XS and I my girl's 04 Outback H6
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Discussion Starter #44 (Edited)
Cool, I appreciate the input...

Thats a great idea with the sharpies. If I ever have a garage and start really pulling things apart I will remember that.

I went ahead and got the seals, I went OEM since it was all I could find in a kit. Mostly everything I got off eBay with free shipping which made it comparable to Rock Auto. The auto store isn't too far so hopefully reusing the snap ring and Axle nut will be no problem. If it is I'll just get my buddy to drive me up to the store real quick. I'm providing the beer all day, but he is an excellent drunk driver... LOL jk ;)

Are Axle nuts okay to reuse? I know you gotta undo that notch to get it off, I imagine you could just notch it back when its all put back together.

I'm going to reuse the rubber brake pin boots if I can, but if I gotta torch the bolt, We'll run to the store for replacements.

All I've ordered this far:

Wheel bearing - $31.48
Bushings - $26.51
Bearing seals - $29.36
Lateral bolt - $ 11.54
Brakes rotors/pads - $130.19
Brake pin set - $9.38
Lower ball joints - $18.56
Liquid Wrench $4.32

Total : $261.32

Beats the hell of paying a shop over $2k :)

I've been keeping tabs on all my expenses since purchasing the car and after buying those parts my total so far including purchase price is only $2427.34

@UhOh you said: "You've spent $700 and got 7000 miles of use so far." I appreciate you sharing that perspective cause I never looked at it this way before.

So far I only need 24,027 miles to make it worth it. I'm 7000 or so in so about 17000 miles to go!
 

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MY05 Forester 2.5 XT 5MT
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Which brands/models did you go with for the brakes?

Throw some of this in your cart and you should be good to go and save enough over taking it somewhere to afford the beer

Shame @RockAuto can't ship to you in Colorado. Is it a state wide thing or just some cities/counties within Colorado that they don't ship to?
If Rockauto are able to reply, are there other states you can't ship to also? I've bought from RockAuto a number of times but always international, being in the UK and find it odd they can ship to me but not to a US address......
 

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Can confirm, I’m in JeffCo and RockAuto wouldn’t ship to me. They wouldn’t ship to a friend’s in Westminster either. I ended up getting my stuff shipped to a friends work address in Golden 🤷🏻‍♀️ Not sure how that worked.
 

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@tcsubie24 Thanks. That was the stuff I was trying to link on O'Reilly's site. Link still works for me oddly.

@soobydoobydoo Have you tried taking on the work yet? Let us know how you get on.
 

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03 Forester XS and I my girl's 04 Outback H6
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Discussion Starter #49 (Edited)
Sup y'all? I've been busy with work and been learning as much as I can about these jobs i'm about to embark upon. Planning on spending Sunday at my buddy's. The last 2 days I've gone under the car and sprayed every bolt involved, nook and crevice where things could go less than optimal. 3 days of liquid wrench application, I hope will make a difference. The torch may also prove to be a worthy ally in this mission.

If I do use the torch I'm aware I'll need to protect the CV boots from damage. Could i just layer up some thick aluminum foil and be good for a heat shield? Any ideas?

I'm going to start with the front brakes and ball joints. Gonna take it super easy on the pinch bolts. Hopefully we can knock the front out early in the day and make our way to the rear. I'm thinking of doing the brakes on the passenger side first and then move to the wheel with wheel bearing job last. That way if by that point were not up for the job we can save it for another day and still get the brakes done on all 4 wheels.

@shewolves Ah dang, I've got a friend in Golden I could have shipped to. I could have sworn that wasn't on the list of cities that could do it. Turns out they wont ship to Colorado because most places in Colorado collect the city tax themselves and with Rockauto not being physical in those cities they can't sell to them. I don't think I truly understand it though Pretty lame, Something to do with a law passed last year. It's related to the case South Dakota vs. Wayfair.

I would have preferred to use Rock Auto, I would have ordered a few more things. Oh well though, @TMX I went for this inexpensive front/rear rotor/pads set. Front And Rear Drill Slot Brake Rotors + Ceramic Pads For 2002 2003 Forester | eBay I never heard of BrakeMotive, It seems kind of an off brand but I read a review that made it seem good. I probably didn't do enough research but it's all good, at least they were cheap and say they are for "performance"too. Who knows lol, hey look cool.

I also got the NTN bearing. I probably cheaped it on the ball joints, I think the brand is TRQ, but I got em both with the pinch bolts for around $20. Much more budget friendly considering I was seeing singles for over $40.

I'll let you guys know how it goes! I'm stoked to get this job under my belt and behind me.
 

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MY05 Forester 2.5 XT 5MT
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I would probably use a piece of timber to act as a temp heat shield if you needed to, soaked in water for a few hours first beforehand

I can't argue with the value of that brake kit you got. That's a lot of parts for the price!. I would be careful with drilled rotors though, as they can get hot, then drive through a puddle and can cause thermal stress and can in some cases, cause the rotors to crack between the drilled holes.......... Brembo and DBA found a way around this drilled rotor problem but not sure how they did it.......

Let us know how it goes for sure ! :)
 

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2004 Forester XS 5MT
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I would probably use a piece of timber to act as a temp heat shield if you needed to, soaked in water for a few hours first beforehand

I can't argue with the value of that brake kit you got. That's a lot of parts for the price!. I would be careful with drilled rotors though, as they can get hot, then drive through a puddle and can cause thermal stress and can in some cases, cause the rotors to crack between the drilled holes.......... Brembo and DBA found a way around this drilled rotor problem but not sure how they did it.......

Let us know how it goes for sure ! :)
What about the cryogenic rotors, anyone tried them yet? I ran Powerslot rotors when I autocrossed, used Hawk HPS pads, with stainless lines it was an amazingly good combo. I am looking at the cryo rotos now, I want a setup for longevity.
 

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@Womprat57 How long are you talking and how long do normal rotors last you? I don't know too much about the Cryogenic treated rotors as not had them personally

According to this post, I bought my Brembo Sport rotors in 2014. They're still on the car today and still have life left in them - I've been very happy with them. They don't get an easy life and no signs of warping, even with 80 mph stops coming off motorways to traffic lights
They weren't cheap, but the extra life compared to "normal" discs/rotors that last me 3-4 ish years and rust out, I'm happy with these :)
 

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03 Forester XS and I my girl's 04 Outback H6
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Discussion Starter #54
Funny, I still haven't done the the work yet. But I've been spraying liquid wrench the last few days. Today I decided to spray some inside the caliper where its apparently a seized piston or slider or something. I went for a drive and immediately noticed that startling rattle in the front every time I brake really wasn't present anymore. That was the whole reason I took it into the shop in the first place. LOL, I would probably keep driving the car the way it is if I never heard that sound. Now that I've bought the parts and gone this far into the process there is no backing out now. At least the car will be safer after this work. Wish me luck!

Thats too bad to hear that drilled rotors being prone to crack. I had no idea, they just looked really cool lol, hopefully these will last me til I retire this car. Any advice on making them last longer and keep from cracking?
 

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MY05 Forester 2.5 XT 5MT
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I'm not sure the Brembo sport rotors would make 100K miles of extreme use.......Maybe if you were using a soft brake pad compound. 50K miles is a lot to get out of rotors !

There isn't much you can do about the cracking in the real world, assuming you can't avoid puddles, rain and cold weather in Colorado lol I guess when coming to complete stops from speed, let the car roll forward a tiny bit, so there's not 1 hotspot in effect on the rotor, not sure how practical that is though

Sounds like liquid wrench works, if nothing else (y)
 

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03 Forester XS and I my girl's 04 Outback H6
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Discussion Starter #56
First road block snapped the pinch bolt and made it worse by snapping off an extractor bit inside the bolt.

looks like a rescue bit is our best option at the moment. Currently Trying to find one we pick up at the store.
lol, we sure have not gotten far.

anybody know what size we want to drill this out to and thread pitch for this punch bolt? Once we get it rescued that will be the next step.
544681
 

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Ouch. I'm not sure what size bolt that was. Do you have part of the bolt/nut off the car you can measure with a caliper?
Can you remember what size socket was needed? You can then look it up on this chart, to give you a good idea which diameter it was.
544733

Source: Metric Bolts - Head and Wrench Sizes
Metric Tap Sizes by TMX1, on Flickr

Drill Sizes for Tap Sizes - Metric Coarse + Metric Fine by TMX1, on Flickr

To drill bolts out, you will need HSS drill bits. To drill extractors out, you will need HSCO (Cobalt) ore even carbide drill bits - They are quite gragile and will break with any side ways movement but about the only thing that will go through a hardened extractor..........

Edit: I'm not sure where you can get hold of those types of drill bits locally but mscdirect.com will do them - They do generally enthusiast/pro-grade drill/taps and things like that.
 

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03 Forester XS and I my girl's 04 Outback H6
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Discussion Starter #58
Thank you for that info @TMX , I’m not 100% sure how to read that. I believe it’s a 14mm, I’ll know for sure when to get back to my car. If any body understands threading and tapping better and can help me understand it that would be awesome. I still have the other side to do and doubt the bolt will be any better.

I had to leave it at my buddies last night without much progress.

we did manage to get the hole drilled out, unfortunately it’s a bit wallowed. And bigger so I’m just going to have to get a 3/8 bolt, nut and washers to tighten it up.

The solution for drilling out the extra bit was two different tungsten carbide Dremel bits with some time and effort. Once through it we drilled ahole through it.

here I am looking ridiculous drilling this thing out:
544748
right now the ball joint is having trouble coming out. But I determined.
 

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@soobydoobydoo
So if you needed a 14mm socket, looking at the first table, since we know Subaru used JIS spec bolts, with smaller tool heads compared ISO/ANSI and DIN spec fasteners, we can see a 14mm tool head is an M10 bolt diameter

Then from the second table, you can see from the M10 rows, if the bolt was metric coarse, the thread pitch was 1.5mm. If the thread pitch was metric fine, it was 1.25mm (Subaru generally uses metric fine fasteners)

From the third table, if we look up M10 x 1.25, the drill bit size required to tap that hole is a 8.8mm diameter or an S size drill bit if you use Inch measurement drill bits.

(If you wanted to do the inverse and and thread a rod/bolt, the rod would need to be 11.0mm thick to turn an M10x1.25mm die on it)

When tapping the hole (Threading the hole), patience is your friend and general purpose oil or cutting/drilling fluid. If you break a tap in the hole, you're going to have a bad day and need some more tungsten carbide bits.........

I'm not sure that position is taught in Subaru Tech school :p

Sounds like she is sizing you to see if you're a worthy adversary ;)
 

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Pshaw! If you aren't doing this in 6 inches of slush....I kid, good luck!
 
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