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2002 Forester 4 speed auto
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29 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Heads mounted and torqued.

These Home Depot PVC schedule 1-1/4 plugs were ideal to push in the camshaft seals and rear plugs.
Heads were torqued bypassing bolts stretch sequence since they had already been used on this motor before. Sequence I did for torquing them was:

11 ft/lb all bolts
25 ft/lb A & B bolts(center bolts)
90 degrees all bolts
90 degrees all bolts

Filled the holes with oil first, then drained them, then oiled the bolts also, not a single bolt screeched.
I know this is a long time ago, but I read back through your postings to double check all my work and learn from some things. Yesterday I got the heads mounted and torqued on my new short block. However, the passenger's side had one bolt that got tight after a few turns, so I decided to take the head back off and inspect the block before I messed something up while all the bolts were finger tight. For both sides I oiled the block holes, drained them, and then oiled the bolts themselves and shook the excess off. However, when I pulled the head off to look, I saw a little bit of oil covering the head gasket/surfaces. Was that because I pulled the head off after I oiled the bolts or did the oil from the bolts seep onto the gasket while the head was mounted on the block?? I'm worried about the other side because I never took it off once I set it on. Good news is that one bolt that wouldn't thread I just gave it a little ratchet and it freed up and had no issues. But what about the oil? I cleaned everything off when I put it on the second time and everything is torqued down
 

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2001 Forester 4EAT
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347 Posts
^^This guy right here knows a lot more than me.. but, I'd say it was simply some excess oil that seeped through and got in between the block/gasket/head once the bolts were torqued.

You're progressing quick!
 

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1999 Forester S
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428 Posts
If Subaru didn't specifically recommend lubing the head/gasket/block with clean engine oil prior to install, my guess is that they want clean, dry mating surfaces for the gaskets.

I only suggested using the moly grease because it won't flow like the engine oil did.
 

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2001 Forester 4EAT
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347 Posts
Should I take the heads back off and redo them? Are my head gaskets ruined?
Not sure which HGs you bought, but the (Six Stars) brand I got are made of three sheets of steel riveted together(MLS), I don't see why they would get damaged from oil.
The motor oil I used to lube the holes/bolts/assemble the engine in general was thicker than regular oil.
Remove the bolts/heads and clean/spray the HGs with alcohol thoroughly, and blow them with an air compressor, be careful not to bend them.
Then repeat the oiling/ molly grease process on bolts. I poured oil in the holes because some of my bolts were screeching and you avoid this with the oil. God forbid one of those bolts snap, then you're really screwed. If you do use oil, make sure to drain the holes longer.

This guy in the video is a Subaru Master Mechanic, I referred to his videos a lot.
At minute 7:45, he talks about the oiling process for the bolts.. Good Luck!
 

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2002 Forester 4 speed auto
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29 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Not sure which HGs you bought, but the (Six Stars) brand I got are made of three sheets of steel riveted together(MLS), I don't see why they would get damaged from oil.
The motor oil I used to lube the holes/bolts/assemble the engine in general was thicker than regular oil.
Remove the bolts/heads and clean/spray the HGs with alcohol thoroughly, and blow them with an air compressor, be careful not to bend them.
Then repeat the oiling/ molly grease process on bolts. I poured oil in the holes because some of my bolts were screeching and you avoid this with the oil. God forbid one of those bolts snap, then you're really screwed. If you do use oil, make sure to drain the holes longer.

This guy in the video is a Subaru Master Mechanic, I referred to his videos a lot.
At minute 7:45, he talks about the oiling process for the bolts.. Good Luck!
I did the exact same process, I let the oil drain out for about 2-3 mins each side. I’m pretty certain now that it was just from lifting the head back off and putting the bolts in and out several times. The other side was a one and done. I used Fel-Pro Perma Torque MLS HG’s, which from what I hear are pretty durable
 

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2001 Forester 4EAT
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347 Posts
FelPro MLS HGs have great reputation too, they’re very much like SixStars, but have a green coating on them. Did you retorque the bolts then? I would think if there was a bit of oil left on the surface, it’ll get burned out once the engine starts and heats up to operating temperature.
 

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2002 Forester 4 speed auto
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29 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
FelPro MLS HGs have great reputation too, they’re very much like SixStars, but have a green coating on them. Did you retorque the bolts then? I would think if there was a bit of oil left on the surface, it’ll get burned out once the engine starts and heats up to operating temperature.
When that one bolt wasn’t threading right, they were all just touching the head (hand tight). I did not start the torque sequence. Before I put it back on after fixing the bolt issue, I wiped all the surfaces and the head gasket with brake cleaner, dried it and did not re-oil any of the holes or bolts. Everything is torqued down now and none of the bolts screeched
 

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90% of Six Stars is rebranded OEM parts.
Also, a master tech of 30+ years, who is a friend of mine, soaks head bolts in clean engine oil during repairs and light wipes them down before install
 
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