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Discussion Starter #1
I drive a 2001 Subaru Forester S2.5L So about 5 months ago I was driving on the free way and my car didn’t shut off but when I stepped on the gas (like floored it) it would only go like 2 mph. I got to the side of the road and had my car towed home, since then I’ve replace my fuel filter, fuel pump, air filter, harmonic balancer, water pump, timing belt, AC belt, Engine belt, valve cover gaskets, cabin air filter, spark plugs, spark plug boots, engine coil, and IAC valve and ice cleaned my Mass flow sensor. I’m completely stumped because whenever I idle it’s like my car is choking, like it’s going to die but it hasn’t. Any idea on what the heck could be wrong?
 

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MY05 Forester 2.5 XT 5MT
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2,809 Posts
Welcome to the forum,
Any engine warning lights on?
How was the fuel mpg before these troubles started?

Automatic or manual?

How long ago was the timing belt changed?

How is it for starting when cold and when the engine is already warmed up?
Is the fuel pump original?

Assuming you're in the US, does your state do emission testing with an exhaust probe? If so, how was the last test performance?

Have you done an engine compression test? This is what I would be starting with and go from there :)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It was normal fuel range I feel like when the problems first started, no check engine lights now(I replaced everything that was throwing a code) I just replaced the fuel pump 4 days ago because I thought might be it. I drive an automatic
 

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Discussion Starter #4
My last emissions test was fine, passed with flying colors. Now it’s like it starts up fine and drives okay but when I stop it’s jumps like it’s wants to die but doesn’t actually die and it’s ping while driving too. But not as often as when I’m stopped with my car in Drive and foot on the brake
 

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MY05 Forester 2.5 XT 5MT
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Ok, so assuming the fuel side of things is ok with the fuel pump and filter changed and the spark side of things is ok.............
That leaves the air side of things, so I would definitely consider a compression test to rule out anything major. Has the exhaust sounded louder more recently?

Have you checked or cleaned the fuel injectors?

Interesting it's an auto. Have you checked the fluid level and colour/condition for the transmission? Does the engine rev freely etc when in neutral? Does it display any problems when in park/neutral or reverse by chance?

Any signs of corrosion at the grounding and battery terminals? I can't see that being an issue but nice to rule that stuff out.
 

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G'day & Welcome @Hannahisntreal
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2012 Forester 4 speed auto
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1,072 Posts
Are you sure you have a Mass Air Flow sensor and not a MAP sensor? Check for intake air leaks. Disconnect the MAF and see if it runs better.
 

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2004 FXT 4EAT
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846 Posts
Vacuum leak?

To test if your exhaust is plugged, you could drop the exhaust headers down (at the head). (you don't need to take the exhaust off completely, just loosen the bolts about 5 turns.

It will be super loud, but you only need to run it for a few seconds to find out if it runs better...
 

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1999 A/T - 235,000 mi. WA state
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750 Posts
Sounds like the cartalitic converter on the exhaust needs replacing very expensive. Have that checked out.
Blocked muffler?
Be my guess too. Subie cat conv are said to be poorly constructed in the internal joints and if they fail/rattle into a position to block the exhaust then the car can't get out of its own way. My '99 had its CC replaced (had been rattling long time) a few yrs ago, ~$700 at this quality independent shop.
 

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2012 Forester X Auto
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1,987 Posts
Good cautionary tale of finding root cause before throwing parts at a problem that has not been diagnosed...
I'm with the emerging consensus opinion... Exhaust is very likely plugged.
 

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"Now it’s like it starts up fine and drives okay but when I stop it’s jumps like it’s wants to die but doesn’t actually die and it’s ping while driving too. "

If this is accurate, meaning that the problems are at low speed/stop, that's pretty much the opposite of what holds true with a restricted exhaust. Working off the foot on the brake complaint, have you considered a leaking booster? DIsconnect and plug the vacuum line, and see if pressing brake still has an effect.
 

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99 L 5MT
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Could be a lot of things but it sounds a lot like a small vacuum leak to me - look into troubleshooting that so you can cross it off the list.

Also if you've been disconnecting the battery a lot recently to do this stuff, from what I understand the car needs some time to relearn it's idle. If you plug in a ODB reader it will say something like 'IM Readiness Status Not Ready'. I have no idea if this is actually even related to idle but when I was in a similar position where the idle was a bit rough/chokey after disconnecting stuff, once I drove 50 miles on the highway or whatever to reset that I noticed my idle was a lot better too
 
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