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2001 Forester S auto
210 Posts
Discussion Starter #22
Aww hell! Bobby, look what happened to the alternator and reworked wiring just over 2 years after I initially replaced the wiring and the alternator itself.... nevermind all that, just look at the state of the battery and it's tie downs... this is seriously wrong!


2007 Forester Sports XT 4EAT
36,584 Posts
@SueBrew my observations...

The cable on the alternator appears to have gotten wet & corroded. Crimping only isn't the best way to go for the DIYer. The factory alternator cable is crimped & soldered. That's an added expense, so if the factory does that, it's not optional!

I would have crimped & soldered. The solder will fill the voids between the strands & the terminal barrel. There will be voids even if the terminal barrel is crimped. Then I'd coat the cable insulation & crimp barrel with electrical grease, following up with shrink insulation. This will totally seal the cable, preventing water wicking into the cable, causing hidden corrosion.
The other option is to use adhesive, glue lined shrink tubing.

When connecting to the alternator stud, electrical grease should be used on the stud, terminal ring & nut to seal the metal to metal connection.

Aftermarket batteries are know to seep... boil over, especially as they age & the water level has been allowed to drop. So called maintenance free wet batteries still need to have the cell water level checked. The combination of water & sulfuric acid is VERY corrosive! One of the reasons I choose to go with Optima Yellow top dry batteries in our vehicles.

Note that the Subaru placed the battery where it gets wet. Water on the top of the battery, around the vents caps will wick battery acid out onto the battery top, which will drip down onto the chassis battery platform. If not addressed, the battery acid can do some serious damage!


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