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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all,
I'm trying to remove my right rear axle from the hub on my 2000 Forester. I have everything apart but it won't come lose. Any ideas?
531562
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2009 Legacy
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Put the nut back on, reverse, but only a couple of threads - This way you have something to hit without it buggering up the threads on the axle (unless you don't care and will replace it anyway, that is)
Then hit the nut with a mallet. There should at least be play. Once that axle is loose and to get it, you may need to pop the lower joint out.
 

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How about a puller like puller like this?
It is labeled "hub puller" but I don't think that's the proper name. I have had one for years so actually forgot what the proper name is. Edit: that is indeed a hub puller.
Put a decent amount of tension on and then whack it with a dead blow hammer. Eventually it will be shocked loose.
 

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If you have access to an air hammer try hitting the end of the axle with it. If not try a puller like Remco described, or brass drift. Here are pages from the FSM. Once the axle is loose, there's more disassembly to remove the axle. Be careful removing the axle from the differential, disassemble enough of the suspension to be able to pull it straight out of the differential, to avoid damage to the seal. I have never worked on a 2000, but it looks like all the suspension joints are nut and bolt, so worst case you grind them off and get new nuts and bolts.

Mr Subaru did a remove and replace on a 98 youtube
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well nothing is working so far. The axle connected to the differential came out but the hub end still won't. It turns inside the hub but it won't come out :(
 

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It should just come out. In your case it clearly take some violence.
You have the axle and hub out as an assembly, I take it?
Do you have access to a press? Where are you (near me, by chance? I have one).
If not, you could rig that 'assembly' on a table somehow and whack it with a well aimed sledge.
 

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It should just come out. In your case it clearly take some violence.
You have the axle and hub out as an assembly, I take it?
Do you have access to a press? Where are you (near me
If not, you could rig that 'assembly' on a table somehow and whack it with a well aimed sledge.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I'm thinking about taking the whole thing to a shop and see if they can get it out. The only thing really keeping it in there is the sensor is still connected and the emergency brake line. I might just disconnect that and take it to a shop. I don't have access to a press. This is pretty frustrating. There's a chance also that I might take the lift off and put it back to stock height. The lift installing experience was actually pretty painful. I love the height. I've only had it on the car for about two weeks. I digress lol
 

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Yeah, I feel your pain there, Brother: I put a 2" lift on my wife's Legacy. It took me swearing like two boat workers to get it done.
Just weird yours got stuck that badly.. You're in the rust belt like me?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I'm actually in Southern California my brotha. Everything came apart really easy so I can't understand why this thing is stuck. Yeah man that lift wasn't easy. I have the ADF 2inch front 2 3/8 in the rear.
 

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Wow.. SoCA? I didn't think out there you had our issues with rust. Up here, stuff rusts the day you drive it off the lot so it always take a fair bit of violence to make it come apart. It can't be rust in your case..
I take this exercise is done to replace he bearing?

How about a hub puller like this?
That hammer head literally take a beating, shocks the assembly and will turn that large screw a bit at a time. I used a full sledge on my 52 dodge to get the rusted drum off. Its axle is cone shaped and keyed so was practically fused on. It took a couple of days, after work.
As a positive, it also gets rid of work related frustration.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yeah that's why I was surprised it's stuck on there. I was hearing a loud hum coming from the rear at about 40+ mph. I figured it would be about an hour just to check the bearing and see if it was bad. Well, here I am a week later lol
Well it did get some frustrations out in the beginning, now it's adding to them lol
 

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I would imagine it would fit. It says on that particular unit that the maximum reach within the bolt pattern is 7.5". Those arms move. Mine may or may not be that exact unit but, at first glance, it looks just like that so could have a look later to see whether it would fit.

Thinking about this some more, I did forget that you have the older style bearing:
Your bearing and hub is not one single unit - yours has a separate bearing. If you use that tool, you may pull the hub and bearing race out before the axle gives way. Not that this would be disastrous because that's the part the axle is attached to. Doing it this way would worry me because that axle usually isn't that stuck. I don't know whether this violence does any damage to parts you don't want to damage. Proceeding, I'd first remove the speed sensor. This things are fragile and want to snap off.
Something will definitely give and, in my case, it was not the tool.

As we agree, ideally that axle should be free before you start taming that bearing. Getting that bearing out is a total mother in law up here so you want to get that axle to cooperate first.

Looking at one of your pictures, I see there's a large washer still in place (the one under the axle nut). It looks like that washer. Or is it the inner bearing - I can't tell. If that's the washer, does that come out? It should. Maybe that sucker is jambed in there, holding it all up?
 

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Be careful with the puller. I once separated a bearing that way...

I would have suggested the same thing Remco already suggested: Put the nut back on, backwards and pound it with a sledge.

At this point, a replacement axle is going to be cheaper than your time! Just pound the crap out of it!
 
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