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2000 forester L
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Discussion Starter #1
2000 Forester L auto, 145,000 miles, rear drum brakes, just purchased from a friend saying there is a humming sound but it's due to bad tires... NOT! passenger side right rear tire making a killer humming sound.

I tried driving and doing the "turning right & left" to see if the sound when away and the sound didn't change. Jacked up the car and tried shaking the tires, no rattleing or shaking. rotating the tires back left to back right then front right to back right and driving around.... same noise.

So my question is:

should I change both rear wheel bearings
should I change the just bearings or the entire assembly
I see rock auto selling just the pair of bearing for about $60, anyone have a recommendation for other places to purchase.

planning to do it as a "weekend adventure". confortable with tools and able to do the work.
 

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I changed RR wheel bearing on my Forester. I pulled the entire wheel knuckle assy and took to a local machine shop who pressed out old and installed new bearing for $25. Relatively easy job this way.

good luck
 

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04 Forester X, MT
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1,039 Posts
not all that hard. be sure you get new axle seals too, in addition to the bearing.

i did my 2004 but i don't think i did either 2000 i had. to get clearance to remove axle, I removed big, long lower bolt from control arm linkage so the whole strut and brake assembly would swing away from the car (rather than removing knuckle or dropping diff etc.)

get a hubshark kit and you won't have to take the knuckle off. like this, although I don't yet have this exact one to use on a forester:

FWD Front Wheel Bearing Adapters

 

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Without a press and the right adapters it would be a hard job to do yourself. I did it on my 2000 OBS but I had access to everything I needed. You can easily destroy a new bearing if you're not careful too.

On the question of doing both sides? The right rear went on my 2001 Forester L at about 54K. The left side held in there until almost 160K miles. So in your situation I'd do both if you plan on keeping the car for a few more years or just the right if you'll be trading up soon.

Guy
 

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2000 forester L
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Discussion Starter #5
I changed RR wheel bearing on my Forester. I pulled the entire wheel knuckle assy and took to a local machine shop who pressed out old and installed new bearing for $25. Relatively easy job this way.

good luck
I don't have the press equipment, think I'm gonna do the same as you did with removing the assembly and take it down to a shop and have them press it in.
 

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377 Posts
A downside of removing the knuckle is disassembly and reassembly of the brake shoes. Not terribly difficult, but tedious. No special tools though.

good luck
 

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03 Forester X
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136 Posts
I bought the kit shown above. Not to bad of a job but I wouldn't want to take everything apart to do it. Good luck
 

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2004 Forester 4EAT
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5,462 Posts
If you pull the knuckle, you will need an alignment. It's easy enough with the harbor freight bearing tool and a rented slide hammer. Also rent the steering wheel puller while at the parts store. The adapter in the slide hammer will not fit our 5 x 100 hubs.
 

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2001 Forester Slushbox
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1,777 Posts
No alignment needed on the rear if you just disconnect the knuckle from the arms.
Only adjustment on rear is toe in/out and it's on the inside bolt of the rear arms.
 

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2004 Forester 4EAT
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5,462 Posts
No alignment needed on the rear if you just disconnect the knuckle from the arms.
Only adjustment on rear is toe in/out and it's on the inside bolt of the rear arms.
No camber adjustment on two strut bottom bolts?
 

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2001 Forester Slushbox
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1,777 Posts
No camber adjustment on two strut bottom bolts?
Not in the rear.
You can get camber bolts put in if you mod the suspension but they don't come on them stock.

(and the go in the top bolt hole like the fronts)
 

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2000 forester L
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14 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
If you pull the knuckle, you will need an alignment. It's easy enough with the harbor freight bearing tool and a rented slide hammer. Also rent the steering wheel puller while at the parts store. The adapter in the slide hammer will not fit our 5 x 100 hubs.
after buying the press kit plus P/H, renting a slide hammer and a wheel puller?my cost just went totally over what it would cost to have a shop press it in for me.
 

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2000 forester L
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Discussion Starter #13
I changed RR wheel bearing on my Forester. I pulled the entire wheel knuckle assy and took to a local machine shop who pressed out old and installed new bearing for $25. Relatively easy job this way.

good luck
do you recall when removing the bad bearings if there was any physical dammage you could see? what there a alot of grease? I was thinking maybe I just need to repack some grease in there.
 

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03 Forester X
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136 Posts
after buying the press kit plus P/H, renting a slide hammer and a wheel puller?my cost just went totally over what it would cost to have a shop press it in for me.
Except you will own the tools and be able to do the job for the price of the bearings and seals on your other bearings...and you wont have to tear apart the brakes and take off the knuckle....

the bearings on these vehicles appear to be a common failure point.... Good luck either way...
 

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2004 Forester XT Premium 4EAT
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If the bearings are bad enough to make a humming sound, chances are the hubs have already been damaged too. If you change just the bearings and reuse the hubs, you'll be having the same problem again soon.
 

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2000 forester L
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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
If the bearings are bad enough to make a humming sound, chances are the hubs have already been damaged too. If you change just the bearings and reuse the hubs, you'll be having the same problem again soon.
thnaks for the info!
been looking around online for a rear hub kit. Checkers has one for $147+s/h each. anyone has suggestions where to order?
 

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1999 Forester
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112 Posts
If there's no play, I would reuse the hub. In order to avert any confusion, the hub is the part that presses into the knuckle. You definitely want to replace the bearing, especially if they're the original caged ball bearings. In 2002, Subaru updated the part with tapered roller bearings.

I drove 40K miles on a humming rear wheel bearing and replaced just the bearing. It's been quiet and smooth for the past 40K miles. But the old one never had any play in the bearing, just noise. In general, though, I think pleiad7 is correct in saying that if left too long, a bad bearing can ruin the hub and knuckle.

You'll need to pull the inner race off the old hub. I have the the Hub Tamer kit, which comes with a puller for this task, but many shops will use a bearing separator plate.

The most difficult part of the job is removing the lateral link bolt, especially if the car sees much road salt -- not a real concern in Hawaii. But I would put some anti-seize on that whole bolt before reassembling, especially where the bolt sits inside the lateral link bushing collars.

In any case, it's a relatively straight forward and easy job from there, which is why I would reuse the hub if you're under financial constraints. Besides, you already have the tools to do the job again. If not, then all new OEM parts is always best. I usually order my parts from Rockauto.com or 1stsubaruparts.com.

Here's a helpful link:
http://www.endwrench.com/current/Current6/03/WhBearRep.pdf
 

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1999 Forester L
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12 Posts
Similar problem with my 99 Forester

I recently purchased a 99 Forester and the previous owner told me that he had the right rear bearing replaced 4 times and it kept on going bad except for the last time. It has now gone bad on me.

So here are my choices:
A. pay the dealer approx. $400 to do it
B. get a new bearing, harbor freight tools, and do it myself
C. get a new knuckle, bearings, seals and hub and change it all out (about $350 in parts from subarugenuineparts.com) and have the bearing pressed in at some garage, and install the whole knuckle assembly myself.

I'm leaning towards C because I'm worried that if this bearing has gone bad so many times, there might be a problem with the hub or knuckle.

What do you all think?
 

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2004 Forester 4EAT
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5,462 Posts
With the knowledge of all the previous problems, I agree on replacing all related parts. You'll save some hassle in the long run. But a new knuckle for that price too? Sounds like a great deal.
 

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none none
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8,844 Posts
I recently purchased a 99 Forester and the previous owner told me that he had the right rear bearing replaced 4 times and it kept on going bad except for the last time. It has now gone bad on me.

So here are my choices:
A. pay the dealer approx. $400 to do it
B. get a new bearing, harbor freight tools, and do it myself
C. get a new knuckle, bearings, seals and hub and change it all out (about $350 in parts from subarugenuineparts.com) and have the bearing pressed in at some garage, and install the whole knuckle assembly myself.

I'm leaning towards C because I'm worried that if this bearing has gone bad so many times, there might be a problem with the hub or knuckle.

What do you all think?
Buy a used knuckle (you should be able to find one at a junk/salvage yard) and press a new hub and bearing into it, then just swap the whole assembly onto your car.

On my car when I had play in my front bearing. The hub was heavily scored and was actually moving in the inner race (and this is what caused the visible play, not the bearing itself!). However the knuckle appears to be fine so far.

Also if they kept bringing it to the same shop, its possible they were doing the procedure incorrectly.
 
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