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2000 Forester
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36 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2000 Forester (EJ251 auto trans) with a rod knock. I've been looking everywhere, and cannot find an EJ251 for less than king's ransom. I cannot even find a rebuild kit for it! :mad:

I'd like to know what's so special about this engine that I could not use an engine or a rebuild kit for a different year? Is there a reference for interchangeability?

Thanks in advance for any advice.
 

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2007 Forester XT Sports 4EAT
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542 Posts
I have rod knock and piston slap in my 2000, I hope some info pops up here as I haven't started looking.
 

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2008 Forester X Premium 5MT
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8,073 Posts
Any EJ25 NA will do. You may have to swap over the intake/wiring harness from your old engine along with the crank/cam pulleys as the triggers for the sensors may or may not be different depending on the year the engine cam from.

No real rebuild kits for subaru engines.
-Spec your crank, the order bearings.
-Spec your cylinders then order pistons to fit.
-Buy gasket set.
 

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2000 Forester
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36 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Any EJ25 NA will do. You may have to swap over the intake/wiring harness from your old engine
I'm from a county in PA that has emissions testing. Is the absence of an EGR on a different engine likely to make any substantial difference?

You mention swapping cam and crank pulleys. Is the EJ25D a suitable swap, or are the cam pulleys substantially different for DOHC?

And finally, I've been told by some that my block likely cannot be bored over because the sleeves aren't thick enough. True or false?

I'm a total Subaru noob, so I really appreciate the advice.

Thanks
 

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2006 V50 T5 6spd Manual
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2,510 Posts
I'm from a county in PA that has emissions testing. Is the absence of an EGR on a different engine likely to make any substantial difference?

You mention swapping cam and crank pulleys. Is the EJ25D a suitable swap, or are the cam pulleys substantially different for DOHC?

And finally, I've been told by some that my block likely cannot be bored over because the sleeves aren't thick enough. True or false?

I'm a total Subaru noob, so I really appreciate the advice.

Thanks
I believe all of the Subbies have some sort of EGR. I believe frogstar7055 did a similar swap once. Might look him up.

EJ25D = bad mojo. :lol: It wouldn't work with your ECU and the harness is drastically different for the DOHC (or so I recall). They were also prone to frequent internal headgasket leaks. Basically any SOHC EJ25 N/A will work. :smile: I have one identical to yours in my Outback, so be sure to check out the other Subaru models if you haven't.

Can't be bored over? I don't buy it. I mean, a regular rebuild overbore on a Chevy small block is .030". Not that much, I don't think. Maybe the Subaru requires more, but I think there should be enough for a regular bore/hone job. I've never rebuilt a Subbie though, so I couldn't tell you for sure.

I'm sure flstffxe knows. He's the engine building guru. :biggrin:
 

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2008 Forester X Premium 5MT
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8,073 Posts
^^ Thanks for the kind words, but I don't consider myself a guru.

The EJ25D short block will work, but is not a drop in. You would have to swap your SOHC heads on to it along with your intake, wiring, sensors, crank pulley(t-belt).

As far as the pulley swaps go they are all related to the timing belt. Even through the years of the SOHC the crank pulley and the cam pulley may have a different number of triggers for the cam/crank position sensors to read. You need to stay with the same as what your ECU is set to read. Swap them if needed.

As far as the EGR again is hit or miss depending on the years. If you have one there will be a steel pipe on the drivers side of the intake that runs down the the back side of the drivers side head. This pipe has 2 different thread sizes that could be used where it attaches to the head. If you have a EGR and you buy a none EGR engine, it still has the boss on the head where the EGR pipe would screw into. It just does not have the threads and is not drilled. It can be drilled and tapped to make it functional or you can swap out the head for yours.

They can be bored over up to 100mm(aftermarket). Subaru also does offer a few over sized pistons factory. Subaru engines use two size categories for pistons "A" and "B" sizes. The block is stamped with the size pistons that were installed factory, you could have any combination of "A"s and "B"s. The stamping is laid out in a box shape and the location corresponds to the cylinder. IE:

Front of engine
AA
AB
Rear

In this case the rear passenger side is a "B" piston.

The "A" piston has an outer diameter of 99.505 — 99.515 mm (3.9175 — 3.9179 in)
The "B" piston has an outer diameter of 99.495 — 99.505 mm (3.9171 — 3.9175 in)

I don't recall the sizes they offer, but off the top of my head I recall a .06mm(.0023")(relative to the "A" and "B" sizes), this was used for piston slap TSB service work but I have used it in my personal rebuilds and one other larger .__mm size(.2mm?). In some cases you can use a "A" size piston as a replacement for a sloppy "B" piston.

Once you start replacing pistons I tend to go with the smallest over bore size I can and still clean up the cylinder. The issue with some shops not wanting to bore Subaru blocks is they may not have the equipment/tooling to do the boring. Subarus basically have a cylinder that can be compared to a blind hole(non-through hole) due to the webbing/main bearings. But yes it can be done and the parts are out there. You just have to measure and know what you have to work with.
 

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2000 Forester
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36 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
^^ Thanks for the kind words, but I don't consider myself a guru.

The EJ25D short block will work, but is not a drop in. You would have to swap your SOHC heads on to it along with your intake, wiring, sensors, crank pulley(t-belt).....
:icon_eek: Uh?

If you don't mind my asking, how did you find all this stuff? Is there some authoritative tome of Subaru lore that I should read?

Right now I'm trying to get running ASAP. I'm checking my options and might have to buy something (as cheap as possible for the moment.) I've never rebuilt before, but my brother who is a small-block geek saw this and definitely wants to tinker with the leftovers.("Freaky engine man! Looks like a jigsaw puzzle!") Neither of us have time right now, but it looks like a build is definitely in our future (my first ever, his first Subaru). So a reference would definitely be a plus.

And many thanks a lot for your input. You've given me many more options than I had a day ago.
 

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01 Forester S
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102 Posts
Nearly any SOHC 2.5 can be used to replace your 2000 engine. I just put an '09 in my wife's '99. If yours has the EGR pipe, just remove the plug that's on the replacement engine to install it. Haven't seen one yet (around 15 engine builds so far) that isn't at least set up for EGR, but I could be wrong.

The trick with later model engines (the pulley discussion) has to do with the cam timing nubs on the back of the driver's side cam pulley, and the crank timing nubs on the timing belt pulley at the crankshaft. You'll need to use your old parts. Don't know off the top of my head when those changed over. Anybody?

Good luck!
 

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2008 Forester X Premium 5MT
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8,073 Posts
:icon_eek: Uh?

If you don't mind my asking, how did you find all this stuff? Is there some authoritative tome of Subaru lore that I should read?
Found it the same way you are right now, research. I had a '03 Subaru baja that at 73K had a wrist pin clip dislodge allowing the wrist pin to walk into the wrist pin access hole, thus shattering the piston breaking the rod, cracking the cylinder wall and wiping out the other side.

Since doing that I have done a few for local people in similar situations as you. For a decent reman engine you may want to look into Remanufactured Subaru Engines they may not be on the low budget side but offer a better warranty then you will get by doing the work your self. By the way what happened to yours? why the need for a rebuild/replacement?








Oh by the way swapping your SOHC heads onto a DOHC block will drop the compression ratio about a 1/2 point due to the pistons in the DOHC block. Performance loss is negligible.
 

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2008 Forester X Premium 5MT
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8,073 Posts
Actually if you look at my 5th pic, the one with the piston with the broken rod sitting on top of the block. You can see where the block is stamped with the "A" and "B" piston sizes.

Just above the piston at about the 1 O'Clock location there is a bolt partially threaded into the block. Just above the head of the bolt you can see the flat with the "A"s and "B"s stamped in it.
 

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2000 Forester
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36 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
By the way what happened to yours? why the need for a rebuild/replacement?
Dunno. It's got a loud rap. My brother (the smallblock guy) says he's sure it's a rod bearing. He's never worked on a Subaru, but I should think he'd still be able to recognize the sound. :shrug:

I have a lot of automotive experience - just not engine experience. Back when I was in school I worked for a shop doing everything but engine - suspension, alignment, brakes, exhaust, cooling, etc, etc. Basically, my shop drew the line at pulling heads.

Anyway, the engine was like this when I bought it (uber-cheap!). I planned to drop another one in it - I just didn't realize how rare they were. :icon_rolleyes:

Anyway, tonight I start ripping and I'll find out for sure if my brother is right.

One forum member has already stepped forward with a nice offer on a short block. So I may be in good shape.

The forester was the car I wanted - not the car I could afford. I figured maybe a little work would get me there.
 
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