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2018 2.5i Manual
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Discussion Starter #1
I am putting in springs and want to make sure this goes well. I did the front. Just like 04-08. The rear multi-link is a different set up so I want to make sure I do it correctly.

Looks like the strut bolt comes out (torque on this for installation?), the camber bolt looks like it has to come out as well as the lat link bolt then the top two bolts holding it in from the top.

Is this correct?
 

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2015 XC diesel CVT
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a couple of nuts on the top mount, pull the bottom bolt, and it's free. Torque settings are in the manual...
 

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09 FXT Stage 2 4EAT
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I am putting in springs and want to make sure this goes well. I did the front. Just like 04-08. The rear multi-link is a different set up so I want to make sure I do it correctly.

Looks like the strut bolt comes out (torque on this for installation?), the camber bolt looks like it has to come out as well as the lat link bolt then the top two bolts holding it in from the top.

Is this correct?
The other thing you should do is disconnect the endlink from the lower control arm. This aids in removing the strut from the lower control arm. All the bolts you have to remove the rear strut is the two top hat bolts and one lower bolt that hold the strut in the lower control arm. That's it. Oh, the other tip I have is sometimes you have to have a friend stand or put pressure on the hub to separate the strut from the control arm.

P.S there is no camber bolt in the rear.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Oh ok. It looked like you might have to remove that pivot bolt closer to the brake caliper on the opposite side of the endlink. It had a painted mark and I assumed it had adjustment to it. I did notice that pressure down was going to be needed. In guess you then push it out the direction of the endlink?

Does anyone have the manual for torque specs?
 

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09 FXT Stage 2 4EAT
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Oh ok. It looked like you might have to remove that pivot bolt closer to the brake caliper on the opposite side of the endlink. It had a painted mark and I assumed it had adjustment to it. I did notice that pressure down was going to be needed. In guess you then push it out the direction of the endlink?

Does anyone have the manual for torque specs?

Just push down and you might want a dead blow hammer to aide you in popping the strut out of it slot. In my strut installation write on this forum, I posted a video that has all the torque specs in it.
Here's a link to the video-
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Where do I send the money sir. :icon_wink:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Springs are in! Thanks Raptr your vid helped. Now an alignment on Monday.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Didn't take much before but I do have a couple so I will try and get a couple together to compare.

Looks good though. Better control driving and the sticker tires a lot better. Still needs bars and perhaps a couple of bushings as I feel a bit of jitter that is coming from soft rubber somewhere.
 

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Didn't take much before but I do have a couple so I will try and get a couple together to compare.

Looks good though. Better control driving and the sticker tires a lot better. Still needs bars and perhaps a couple of bushings as I feel a bit of jitter that is coming from soft rubber somewhere.
Thats the best part about the SH chassis is that most of all the GR WRX/STi rear end bushings work on our setups. Whiteline, Kartboy, Powerflex, etc makes some good stuff. I've been thinking about doing the rear subframe and diff bushings next.
 

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2018 2.5i Manual
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Discussion Starter #13
dolphan, I put in Swift springs. Very mild drop and only somewhat stiffer. I think the SG chassis swifts were made for a slight stiffer ride but then the mult link rear will ride better so it is hard to tell.

The contiextreme DW is a pretty aggressive tire (I am running 235/50/17) and makes a big difference in grip.

Raptr, I want to do bushings but I also am a bit reluctant to just throw everything at it. I did that with my SG and it ended up adding more NV than I wanted. I think the trans and exhaust rubber will stay stock. Those two can contribute a lot of NV.

I still get a bit of elastic feel over bumps and such but not as much with new springs and tires. I am positive that strategic bushings are the answer. I am also reluctant to drop in big sway bars but at least the rear.
 

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2010 X-Premium M/T
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Frito - I'm assuming you still have the stock dampers (front and rear) - if so, did the stiffer springs seem to aggrevate (sp?) the already "weak" damping - particularly in the rear? Or, did is somewhat alleviate this issue?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Einy, I simply have not driven it enough to come to any sort of conclusion. I will post my feelings once I do however.
 

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2010 Forester 2.5XT
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48 Posts
Frito - I'm assuming you still have the stock dampers (front and rear) - if so, did the stiffer springs seem to aggrevate (sp?) the already "weak" damping - particularly in the rear? Or, did is somewhat alleviate this issue?
I would be particularly interested in anyones thoughts on this question as well. I am currently having a disagreement with my dealer about fitting aftermarket springs as he is of the belief the current Forester XT dampers wont work with aftermarket shorter springs. My current thoughts are for Legacy aftermarket springs from H&R?

and before you say I should do it myself, here in Switzerland you have to have everything dealer fitted and approved by the authorities and put into your official papers or you can be fined massively :shake:
 

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Discussion Starter #19
The springs to not seem to aggravate nor alleviate the damping control.

All I can say is that Swift of Japan and King of Australia both manufacture springs (Kings are standard height and 15-20% stiffer and Swifts are a small drop and 20-25% stiffer) designed to work with the factory struts/shocks.

You may be able to get a statement from either company to saying that.
 
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