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2007 Forester 2.5XT
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
*update* 05/18/2010

Here is an updated list for the full build.
  • Blouch TD05H-18G-XT Turbo (8cm)
  • SPEARCO TOP MOUNT INTERCOOLER
  • DEATSCH WERKS TOP FEED INJECTORS 750CC
  • WALBRO FUEL PUMP 255LPH
  • GRIMMSPEED Subaru Boost Solenoid
  • TGV Deletes (by IAG Performance )
  • GRIMMSPEED Phenolic Thermal Spacer 3mm
  • P&L MOTORSPORTS HighFLO Intake
  • SAMCO SPORT INDUCTION HOSE
  • BC RACING BR TYPE COILOVER
  • PERRIN SUBFRAME, REAR DIFF LOCKDOWN SYSTEM
  • STi Lateral Link Set
  • Whiteline 22mm Rear Sway Bar
  • Kartboy Rear End links
  • KARTBOY SHORT SHIFT
  • KARTBOY SHIFTER BUSHINGS
  • KARTBOY SHIFTER BUSHINGS REAR
  • KILLER B MOTORSPORT ULTIMATE OIL PICKUP
  • SPT ENGINE MOUNTS

Install dates are set for 05/19-05/22 and the pro tune is scheduled for 05/29. I'll probably end up driving it for that week on a safe tune. Ought to be miserable but well worth the wait.

I'll post dyno results as soon as I've got em.

Last year I had a Cobb TurboBack installed with a custom tune. The car is still running great but I'm ready to move up. This is my daily driver and I do not plan on any autoX, however, I enjoy 'spirited' driving. ;)

My goal is to have a 320+hp vehicle when all is said and done and my budget is around $6 -7k.

I've got my mind mulling on the following:
  • Bigger Turbo
    • Size/brand suggestions? (currently looking at the BLOUCH Dominator 2.5XT-R for no other reason other than I've heard good things about it. Although those have all been for the 4EAT and mine is a 5MT) Is this the right choice for the 2.5 engine or should I go bigger?
  • New Injectors
    • CC suggestions? (planning on 750s. Will that be enough?)
  • New TMIC
    • Currently planning on the Spearco. Thoughts?
  • Coilovers
    • From what I've read this may or may not be a good idea. I want to reduce the amount of bucking from front to rear the car exhibits in acceleration and braking. I'd also Like to improve steering response.
    • Deciding between enduratech and BC Racing. Any opinions between these two? (keeping in mind a daily driver)
  • Front + rear sway
  • Custom tune

I could really use your help on the specifics and interoperability of the components. I plan on having IAG do the installation because I'm what one would call 'mechanically challenged'.

Thanks in advance.
 

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2004 XT
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Finally someone who gives all the needed information when asking a question. He would be my reccommendations...


I've got my mind mulling on the following:
Bigger Turbo
Size/brand suggestions? (currently looking at the BLOUCH Dominator 2.5XT-R for no other reason other than I've heard good things about it. Although those have all been for the 4EAT and mine is a 5MT) Is this the right choice for the 2.5 engine or should I go bigger?
This does look like an awesome turbo and I would put this is as the biggest turbo you are looking at since anything bigger and you will be investing way more than the 6-7k since a transmission upgrade would be in your future. I also wouldn't rule out the FP hta68. $899 new and has proven to get the numbers you are looking for. check this thread it has 3 dyno charts for forester with this turbo I also would look into the new blouch 18gxt. billet wheel and your choice of 7cm, 8cm, or 10cm housing. with the billet wheel that 18g should be a spool monster

New Injectors
CC suggestions? (planning on 750s. Will that be enough?
deatshwerks has 740's which should be plenty but you could always up it to the 850's for 100 more and give yourself some headroom if you decided to upgrade later. I made 432whp on my dom4 with 816s so i think 850 would be plenty for any future plans

New TMIC
Currently planning on the Spearco. Thoughts?
cant go wrong with the best

Coilovers
From what I've read this may or may not be a good idea. I want to reduce the amount of bucking from front to rear the car exhibits in acceleration and braking. I'd also Like to improve steering response.
Deciding between enduratech and BC Racing. Any opinions between these two? (keeping in mind a daily driver).
I daily drive on my bc's and have for over 20k and they have help up as much I could have wanted for a entry level coilover. the enduratechs are very nice too from what I have heard and a little more suited for daily driving. BC goes for right around 1k and enduratecha are closer to 1700 so it comes down to how much are you willing to pay for a little more comfort

Front + rear sway
always helps handling but be wary of your lateral link support tab breaking when upgrade to a stiffer rear sway bar. if youve got the extra funds a sti lateral link set would be a nice upgrade to throw in here as well

Custom tune
a must for safety and for drivebility and since you are going with IAG jorge is one of the best subaru tuners in the country

I could really use your help on the specifics and interoperability of the components. I plan on having IAG do the installation because I'm what one would call 'mechanically challenged'.
IAG basically built my car from the ground up so(suspension, fully built engine, custom turbo kit, 6 speed swap), and have done quite a bit of work on other members cars(sirwilliam, toddlamp, declansdad, marcmtb35...). so i obviously have nothing but good things to say about them. they have super fair labor rates(79/hour) and the staff there will always take care of you.


I would also recommend if you can get them at the time since you are doing a ton of labor to begin with, TGV removal, phenolic spacers, and some kind of ported and polished exhaust manifolds. though these things aren't necessary, they are nice for improving spool which is always good on a street car

turbo-1195(18gXT)since it was in the middle
intercooler-900
injectors-500
tune-500
coilovers-1000
front and rear sway bars/endlinks ~500

right there you are at $4500. that is without tax(i always seem to forget that when factoring it in and at 6% it is something to note) and labor. those parts are all new part pricing from IAG's website but I am sure with patience you can hunt and find used deals.

hope this helps
 

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2007 XT Sport 5MT
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deatshwerks has 740's which should be plenty but you could always up it to the 850's for 100 more and give yourself some headroom if you decided to upgrade later. I made 432whp on my dom4 with 816s so i think 850 would be plenty for any future plans
Since he's an '07 he'd need top-feeds, and Deatschwerks has 750s in that configuration as I'm currently running them.
It couldn't hurt to go with the 850s though, headroom is always a good thing.

I'm pretty sure you can get softer spring rates for the BC's if you contact them directly. 1k softer front and rear could make the difference for a DD setup.
 

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Since he's an '07 he'd need top-feeds, and Deatschwerks has 750s in that configuration as I'm currently running them.
It couldn't hurt to go with the 850s though, headroom is always a good thing.
.
little known fact but im running top feeds as well. when i did the 35r i went with perrin top feed rails and dw 1100's

and to the OP you will need a walboro or some other comparable fuel pump as well
 

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2007 Forester 2.5XT
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Discussion Starter #5
This helps out immensely. Thanks a ton, Vinnyd. That last sentence was strange to type for me. My name is Vinny and my last name also begins with 'D'. I ran into sirwilliam when I was having my car tuned last year and he asked me if I was you. Weird.

Anyway, I'll look into the spring rates for the BCs. I might splurge for the enduratechs if they are truly provide a better street ride. Are there any other benefits of the endura's over the BCs? If the price is justified I may just go with those.

Thanks for the heads up on the link set. I do remember reading about that issue somewhere but it had definitely slipped my mind. This is the first time I've heard about the phenolic spacers but after a bit of reading it makes good sense especially for the price. The TGV is also a new term for me. "Tumble Generator Valve", correct? I wasn't aware that the removal was a performance enhancement but it makes sense. You've definitely given me some more homework. :biggrin:

Thanks again, guys. I'll let you know how it all goes down. Still need to work out the schedule and details with IAG but I'm already getting excited.
 

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where in md are you. once i get my car back you can go for a ride and feel the bc's even for being 20k miles old they still are pretty comfortable. imho i would say save the 600 or so and get the sti links. my car is actually at IAG now
 

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Discussion Starter #7
where in md are you. once i get my car back you can go for a ride and feel the bc's even for being 20k miles old they still are pretty comfortable. imho i would say save the 600 or so and get the sti links. my car is actually at IAG now
That would be great man. I appreciate the offer.

I'm not far from Columbia at all. I'm working on a contract in Hanover by the Arundel Mills Mall. Shoot me a PM when you get your car back and maybe we can get together after work or something.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I also would look into the new blouch 18gxt. billet wheel and your choice of 7cm, 8cm, or 10cm housing. with the billet wheel that 18g should be a spool monster
Which housing would be most appropriate for a street car? I'm thinking the 8cm right now as my understanding is that 10cm housings produce more power around the 4-7k rpm range while the 7-8cm produce more power in the lower ranges 3-5k rpm. Is this correct?

I'm really considering pulling the trigger on that 18g xt. Just sent blouch a PM via the nasioc forums.
 

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i think the 18gxt 8cm would be an AWESOME street turbo. I would definitely consult rick/JJ before you pull the trigger. My car will be at IAG for a little bit since my appt isn't until early may for my brembo upgrade
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Cool. The reason I'm so eager is because blouch has a thread over at nasioc advertising the new turbos for $1100 until this friday. :icon_frown:
New Products from Blouch Turbo (billet inside) - NASIOC

Oh well. Worth waiting to hear back from IAG first.

No rush on the ride. Let me know when you get it back and we'll set somethin up. Thanks again for your help.
 

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2006 Forester XT Limited 4EAT
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Really good info in here.
I would have to say that you should seriously consider your housing size based on your goals. Talk to your tuner and be explicit about what you are trying to accomplish.
I'm on the fence about the 10cm^2 I have. I really need to get into a VF-xx to refresh my memory.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
for that price and a brand new turbo jump on it and let them know later. that is a steal!!!
Tussen; said:
I would have to say that you should seriously consider your housing size based on your goals. Talk to your tuner and be explicit about what you are trying to accomplish.
I was able to get them to lock the price in until Monday. Hopefully I can steal a few minutes of Rick's time to pick his brain about that unit and place the order next week.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
So i ordered the TD05H-18G-XT (here's a post of some pictures a tuner over at iwsti took of th same turbo: IWSTI.com: Subaru WRX STI Forums - View Single Post - Mike's blown-engine'd WRB 04 STi - new sponsor: LiteSpeed Peformance!) from Blouch today after talking to Rick from IAG. He had suggested an intake as well as a new MAF sensor (or a sensor valve... i think). I haven't been able to find much info about the sensor. Most of what I've found is related to the airflow around the sensor like the Perrin Big MAF which seems to only be a housing around the sensor, correct? Or does it come with a new sensor as well?

Also, regarding the intake it seems that most people are building custom airboxes for them. I'm guessing the purpose of the airbox is to pull in cooler air than what is floating around in the engine compartment but is it really necessary?

Either way, The ball is rolling. I'm psyched to see what this thing will do with the new parts installed. :biggrin:
 

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wish you went w/ the hta68 instead of the 18g. they seem to perform on par if not better than the 18g variants. then again maybe this new billet wheel will impress... you could have also get a package from import image on nasioc for $1350 (hta68, injectors, fuel pump) for $1350. then id pickup a txs or perrin tmic($6-750), the spearco is also nice but a lot more money. as far as intake goes, CAI all the way(id do an aps - $190). anything that draws in air from the engine bay will be counter productive.

then id top it off w/ a nice strut/spring package. coilovers are pointless on a daily, and will ride ruff in comparison.

all of this will come in way under budget even w/ dynotime and protune.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
wish you went w/ the hta68 instead of the 18g. they seem to perform on par if not better than the 18g variants. then again maybe this new billet wheel will impress... you could have also get a package from import image on nasioc for $1350 (hta68, injectors, fuel pump) for $1350. then id pickup a txs or perrin tmic($6-750), the spearco is also nice but a lot more money. as far as intake goes, CAI all the way(id do an aps - $190). anything that draws in air from the engine bay will be counter productive.

then id top it off w/ a nice strut/spring package. coilovers are pointless on a daily, and will ride ruff in comparison.

all of this will come in way under budget even w/ dynotime and protune.
I'm hoping this new XT with the billet wheel is going to be something special. We'll see. For what it is, I feel like $1100 is a pretty good deal. As for the TMIC, I definitely still have time to reconsider a less expensive option. I won't be getting these parts installed or tuned for another few weeks so I do plan on shopping around a bit. When I made the list of components I was less concerned with the brand and price and more focused on the 'which parts do I need to get it done' aspect.

I'll definitely look into the APS. I agree that the cold air is the way to go but I'm still a little confused about the airboxes. Would that APS cai benefit from one? Is there a manufacturer that sells a prefabricated airbox for the CAIs?.

I'm still torn about the suspension setup. All i know is that I want a tighter handling ride. When I start researching all the options and parts in the how-turn-better-than-sti-cheap guide, I just get overwhelmed and confused. I think I will likely go with whatever IAG suggests because ultimately they will be the ones performing the installation and configuration so whatever they are most familiar with will likely be what I will choose. Cost effective? probably not. Functional? I hope so. :icon_redface:

Looks like dinotheo is in the same boat regarding the suspension. I'm interested to see what he ends up with as well.
 

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no need for a box w/ the cai, it moves the filter out of the hot engine bay.

always remember the shop is going to push what they sell... i auto-x my car heavily and am obssesed w/ handling. my tokicos + rce springs are top notch and drive civily on the street. konis + springs is another great option that will come in @ the same price if not a tad more than bcs. however they are not height adjustable. if you just want so cheap entry level coils, the BCs will be fine - just get some custom softer spring rates.

i eventually will step up to coilovers, but not cheapos. everything i am looking @ starts @ 1800+ w/out camber plates... good handling isnt cheap! if you want something nice, german coils are where it is @, the japanese stuff tends to ride real stiff and is made for uber smooth roads.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
no need for a box w/ the cai, it moves the filter out of the hot engine bay.
Sweet.

always remember the shop is going to push what they sell... i auto-x my car heavily and am obssesed w/ handling. my tokicos + rce springs are top notch and drive civily on the street. konis + springs is another great option that will come in @ the same price if not a tad more than bcs. however they are not height adjustable. if you just want so cheap entry level coils, the BCs will be fine - just get some custom softer spring rates.
I won't be doing any auto-x. My goal with the suspension is to

  1. remove the bucking and diving from the front of the car during accelerating and braking (respectively)
  2. Increase steering responsiveness. The steering wheel feels very loose when compared to any other sports car (Makes me miss my 99 Z28). Comes with the 'compact suv' territory i know, but if I can stiffen that up, i would love to
  3. Decrease body roll in cornering. The car feels top heavy. This is most notable to me in off/on ramps from the highway or in some of the twisty back roads of my area.
  4. Maintain drive-ability in less than normal road conditions. I do a good bit of hiking/climbing/mountain biking and some of the trailheads require some dirt road driving with plenty of dips/dives and potholes.


Basically, I'd like it to ride a little tighter than a stock WRX. (minus the bucking and diving of the front end)

I'm not at all concerned with the aesthetic details of the suspension. 1", 2", 1.5" is all the same to me as long as in the end, the car handles more precisely. If I could maintain the current ride height of the car while meeting my above mentioned goals I would like to do that, but from what I understand that is just not possible.

i eventually will step up to coilovers, but not cheapos. everything i am looking @ starts @ 1800+ w/out camber plates... good handling isnt cheap! if you want something nice, german coils are where it is @, the japanese stuff tends to ride real stiff and is made for uber smooth roads.
I was looking at the endura-tech package that IAG has on their site when considering coilovers. Do you think that set would meet my goals, or would I still be better off with a strut/spring combo. I'm also assuming there is more than just the struts/springs to consider when not going the coilver route, like bushings and such, correct?
 

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the bucking and diving can be remedied by just putting in a pitch stop mount and some stiffer springs. your steering on the other hand isnt as easy to fix w/out swapping in a sti/wrx steering rack. the steering rack bushings + a front sway will help, but i find the foz's steering very unattached and vague.

if you are going to be going on dirt trails, the coils def arent for you. id start w/ swifts, if thats not enough for you, kyb gr2 wrx fitment struts and some stock sti or prodrive/epic springs. that accompanied by the sways will really tighten things up!

checkout the suspension forum, tons of valuable info in there. i dont wanna get too far off topic in the powertrain area...
 

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You might also want to consider upgrading/adding the following:

MAF Tube (ZeroSports, Perrin, APS, COBB, etc) - OEM tube is corrugated and seen as a restriction.

Turbo Inlet (Samco, APS, Gimmick, AVO, Perrin) - OEM inlet occasionally tears where it connects to the turbo.

TGV Deletes (KS Tech, Grimmspeed, APS, do-it-yourself) - This is an emissions device and seen as a restriction in the intake tract. You can gut the entire TGV housing, or just remove the butterfly valves, sensors, and motors.

Phenolic Spacers (KS Tech, Grimmspeed) - Reduces heat transfer to the intake manifold.

Boost Controller/Solenoid (Prodrive, Grimmspeed, TurboXS, Greddy, etc) - I'm a fan of the Grimmspeed EBCS, since it plugs directly into the factory plug. Tuners seem to like it too, but check with yours.

Larger Scoop (OEM 02/03 STi, Seibon, C-west, eBay) - More air onto your scoop. :)

You'll also need new hoses and clamps, if the OEM hoses don't fit with the TMIC. Check out HoseTechniques Silicone Turbo Hose, Buy Direct from Manufacturer, Best Quality / Best Price - Hose Techniques established 1983 - Quality, Performance, Style and SILICONE HOSE,SILICONE HOSES,TURBO HOSE,TURBO HOSES,INTERCOOLER HOSE for those.
 
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