[Cpip1218]

Hey guys I recently have done sti bolt ons to my fozzy
Vf39 turbo
STi TMIC w/ sti bov
Accessport v3
Invidia downpipe w/ High flow cat
Catless STi uppipe
AEM fuel pump 320lph
K&N intake
Mishimoto PCV hoses
Mishimoto radiator
GrimmSpeed ebcs
Perrin turbo inlet
Turboxs catback

The reason I'm here is I'm having a couple problems. My car is burning a good bit of oil when I took a 450 mile trip going 80-90mph mostly highway I used a whole quart of oil. I use a lot less oil when driving around town. I've had a compression and leak down test down a 5th gear performance who works on mostly Subaru and they said I have 90 psi across all 4 cylinders and 5-10% leakdown on cylinder 4. I was under the impression I had Ringland failure and to rebuild the engine.
They told me if it was there car they would wait to rebuild it. And said if I had Ringland failure I'd see blue smoke under WOT. My car runs great and I'm running a tune from Eric at Torqued Performance.
Does anyone have any suggestions could it be a bad turbo even though I bought new on eBay..

 

[x05]

Oil manufacturer, product and grade?
Mileage on the engine?
90 PSI for each cylinder sounds kinda low...
An AOS might help reduce oil consumption.

 

[montanasuby]

Well it’s going somewhere, it’s either leaking or burning it, in this case if you aren’t leaking it then it’s going out the tailpipe. I’d maybe consider a second opinion and have someone review the work performed. A simple turbo install shouldn’t equate to an oil burning situation. Something isn’t right.

I will say if you are using mobile 1 5w30 that might be your problem because turbo subarus eat that stuff up.

Keep in mind the psi on the cylinder is altitude dependent so it would be different for you at sea level then in Denver.

Technical Articles at Greg's Engine & Machine

 

[Cpip1218]

Oil manufacturer, product and grade?
Mileage on the engine?
90 PSI for each cylinder sounds kinda low...
An AOS might help reduce oil consumption.

I just ordered an aos I just feel if it’s being burned it can’t help to much. But hopefully. Right now I’ve just been refilling with cheap gas station 10w40. But my last oil change was with Amsoil 10w40. Engine has 130000

 

[Cpip1218]

Oil manufacturer, product and grade?
Mileage on the engine?
90 PSI for each cylinder sounds kinda low...
An AOS might help reduce oil consumption.

i last did an oil change with amsoil 10w40 And since have just been refilling with cheap oil when I fill car up at gas station. I just ordered a aos last Friday. But if it’s being burned I just can’t see it helping much:/ engine has 130000

 

[Cpip1218]

Well it’s going somewhere, it’s either leaking or burning it, in this case if you aren’t leaking it then it’s going out the tailpipe. I’d maybe consider a second opinion and have someone review the work performed. A simple turbo install shouldn’t equate to an oil burning situation. Something isn’t right.

I will say if you are using mobile 1 5w30 that might be your problem because turbo subarus eat that stuff up.

Keep in mind the psi on the cylinder is altitude dependent so it would be different for you at sea level then in Denver.

Technical Articles at Greg's Engine & Machine

I’m in Tennessee I performed the work and know everything went on as it should. I don’t have any leaks it sits on a cement driveway and can’t see any visible signs under car. I’m gong to try and post a pic of my tailpipe. The exhaust is 2 weeks old and definatly got black on the inside quick but no oily residue

 

[x05]

My 2005 FXT is also using quite a bit of oil, which appears to be somewhat normal for stock internals.

Oil is a touchy subject, but IMO you should not be mixing cheap conventional oil with quality true full synthetic oils like AMSOIL, Red Line, ENEOS, Driven, Motul, etc.

You want to use a true full synthetic oil that has the lowest volatility (NOACK) percentage, which measures how prone it is to oxidizing (burning off).

It’s been awhile since I researched NOACK and not all manufacturers provide NOACK numbers, strangely.

From what I found, most Red Line oils have the lowest NOACK numbers of 6%. I believe AMSOIL is around 9% while the others I mentioned don’t post their NOACK numbers (at least the last time I looked).

Aside from that, what’s also very important (perhaps even moreso) is wear resistance. If you’ve ever seen the 540 RAT blog, this guy focuses on and ranks oils based on wear resistance. However, it is a behemoth of a document and the information is all over the place. A lot of the newer oils aren’t listed and he doesn’t provide an easy method of contacting him to submit samples for testing.

It’s been awhile since I looked at it, so I’ll read it again.

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com

Also, I’m not a believer of the “thicker grade protects better” dogma. That is an outdated mindset. As long as oil pressure is sufficient (general rule of thumb is 10 PSI per 1000 RPM), thinner grades can be used as long as the chemical additive packages provide excellent wear resistance, which is where the 540 RAT blog comes in handy as a reference.

In a nutshell:
*True (PAO-based (Group IV) or ester-based (Group V) full synthetic oil
*Lowest NOACK %
*Highest wear resistance
*Thinnest grade that maintains 10 PSI / 1000 RPM (or thinnest you are comfortable with)
*Don’t mix with conventional oils
*Don’t overfill the oil system
*Higher flashpoints are better to reduce fuel dilution impact (from blow-by) and reduce pre-ignition risk

 

[x05]

Additionally, thinner grades will result in less oil windage resistance, which frees up more power across the entire RPM range, especially up high.

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/ctrp-0603-oil-pan-design-windage-tech/

https://blog.wiseco.com/common-causes-of-blowby-and-oil-consumption

http://www.lcengineering.com/LCNewsletter/2015/MARCH/CrankScrapers_TECHNOTE.html

https://crank-scrapers.com/What is a crank-scraper.html

Windage screens/trays, additional baffling and crank scrapers also help reduce loss due to windage. I’m in the process of finding relevant products that are compatible with EJ25X oil pans and crankshafts.

 

[Cpip1218]

My 2005 FXT is also using quite a bit of oil, which appears to be somewhat normal for stock internals.

Oil is a touchy subject, but IMO you should not be mixing cheap conventional oil with quality true full synthetic oils like AMSOIL, Red Line, ENEOS, Driven, Motul, etc.

You want to use a true full synthetic oil that has the lowest volatility (NOACK) percentage, which measures how prone it is to oxidizing (burning off).

It’s been awhile since I researched NOACK and not all manufacturers provide NOACK numbers, strangely.

From what I found, most Red Line oils have the lowest NOACK numbers of 6%. I believe AMSOIL is around 9% while the others I mentioned don’t post their NOACK numbers (at least the last time I looked).

Aside from that, what’s also very important (perhaps even moreso) is wear resistance. If you’ve ever seen the 540 RAT blog, this guy focuses on and ranks oils based on wear resistance. However, it is a behemoth of a document and the information is all over the place. A lot of the newer oils aren’t listed and he doesn’t provide an easy method of contacting him to submit samples for testing.

It’s been awhile since I looked at it, so I’ll read it again.

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com

Also, I’m not a believer of the “thicker grade protects better” dogma. That is an outdated mindset. As long as oil pressure is sufficient (general rule of thumb is 10 PSI per 1000 RPM), thinner grades can be used as long as the chemical additive packages provide excellent wear resistance, which is where the 540 RAT blog comes in handy as a reference.

In a nutshell:
*True (PAO-based (Group IV) or ester-based (Group V) full synthetic oil
*Lowest NOACK %
*Highest wear resistance
*Thinnest grade that maintains 10 PSI / 1000 RPM (or thinnest you are comfortable with)
*Don’t mix with conventional oils
*Don’t overfill the oil system

Additionally, thinner grades will result in less oil windage resistance, which frees up more power across the entire RPM range, especially up high.

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/ctrp-0603-oil-pan-design-windage-tech/

https://blog.wiseco.com/common-causes-of-blowby-and-oil-consumption

http://www.lcengineering.com/LCNewsletter/2015/MARCH/CrankScrapers_TECHNOTE.html

https://crank-scrapers.com/What is a crank-scraper.html

Windage screens/trays, additional baffling and crank scrapers also help reduce loss due to windage. I’m in the process of finding relevant products that are compatible with EJ25X oil pans and crankshafts.

Thankyou for all this info I plan to read more into it. I’m taking a trip to Florida and would like to change my oil before leaving what do you recommend I change it with? Only reason I started adding cheap oil into it was because I didn’t wanna pay for nice oil if my engine was gonna go out soon:/ but I will continue to put good stuff in it in hopes to maximize her life

 

[x05]

AMSOIL Signature Series 0W-20 is #2 on the 540RAT wear resistance list at 134K PSI and AMSOIL SS 5W-30 is #3 also at 134K PSI.

For something you can buy at WalMart or most auto parts stores, Quaker State Ultimate Durability (QSUD) 5W-30 is #20 (113K PSI) with very low (3.7%) durability performance loss at extremely high temperatures.

If you want to stick with a 40 due to your low compression issues, I’d go with QSUD Euro 5W-40. A 10W is way too thick as the vast majority of wear happens during warmup. You ideally want a 0W to get oil at startup to operating temp as quickly as possible.

If you need to add oil, you can add single bottles of QSUD 5W-30 or even 0W-20 to see how your engine deals with thinner viscosity over the life of a single change interval.

Only fill it to 1/4 below the full line to see if oil loss is reduced due to less windage and less parasitic drag on the splash-lubricated rotating internals. Fuel economy should go up.

 

[x05]

Found a baffle from Killer B for the 2.5L that acts as both a windage tray, quasi-scraper and is gated/louvered:
http://www.killerbmotorsport.net/oiling-products/oil-baffes/oil-baffle-windage-tray.html

The factory oil pickup tube is also known to fail without warning. Killer B has a beefy oil pickup tube available for the 2.5L:
http://www.killerbmotorsport.net/oiling-products/oil-pickups/ultimate-oil-pickup-ej25.html

More info about the factory oil pickup tube problem:
http://www.killerbmotorsport.net/blog/pickup1
http://www.killerbmotorsport.net/blog/vspost/

Also some oil pan info:
http://www.killerbmotorsport.net/blog/oilpanidentifier/

{EDIT} Need an STi oil pan for the oil pickup tube. Won’t fit with the FXT oil pan.

 

[montanasuby]

Thankyou for all this info I plan to read more into it. I’m taking a trip to Florida and would like to change my oil before leaving what do you recommend I change it with? Only reason I started adding cheap oil into it was because I didn’t wanna pay for nice oil if my engine was gonna go out soon:/ but I will continue to put good stuff in it in hopes to maximize her life

Save your money on the amsoil stuff and look at the 0w40 castrol euro spec available at Walmart for @25 bucks for 5quarts. It has a -60 degree pourpoint and is a true Full Synthetic.

 

[montanasuby]

Found a baffle from Killer B for the 2.5L that acts as both a windage tray, quasi-scraper and is gated/louvered:
http://www.killerbmotorsport.net/oiling-products/oil-baffes/oil-baffle-windage-tray.html

The factory oil pickup tube is also known to fail without warning. Killer B has a beefy oil pickup tube available for the 2.5L:
http://www.killerbmotorsport.net/oiling-products/oil-pickups/ultimate-oil-pickup-ej25.html

More info about the factory oil pickup tube problem:
http://www.killerbmotorsport.net/blog/pickup1
http://www.killerbmotorsport.net/blog/vspost/

Also some oil pan info:
http://www.killerbmotorsport.net/blog/oilpanidentifier/

{EDIT} Need an STi oil pan for the oil pickup tube. Won’t fit with the FXT oil pan.

I have this upgrade and it’s as nice as it looks. You have to use sti oil pan, windage tray and dipstick

 

[montanasuby]

I’ll add there is nothing normal about oil use, sorry, I ran my stock motor for 200000 miles with little to no oil usage.

Whatever you do don’t use mobile 1 5w30 it’s on the thinner side of 5w30 and turbo subarus eat it for lunch.

 

[x05]

@montanasuby
Did you see your oil consumption reduce once you added the baffle?

Agreed on Mobil 1; garbage for turbos, causing sludge issues due to poor oxidation performance. Seen it wreck a few turbos on another platform.

 

[montanasuby]

@montanasuby
Did you see your oil consumption reduce once you added the baffle?

Agreed on Mobil 1; garbage for turbos, causing sludge issues due to poor oxidation performance. Seen it wreck a few turbos on another platform.

I didn’t have any oil consumption, I added the sti oil pan and windage tray and pickup fro killer b during my motor upgrade.

Here’s a link to my build and that section of it.
https://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/3774530-post3.html

 

[Cpip1218]

AMSOIL Signature Series 0W-20 is #2 on the 540RAT wear resistance list at 134K PSI and AMSOIL SS 5W-30 is #3 also at 134K PSI.

For something you can buy at WalMart or most auto parts stores, Quaker State Ultimate Durability (QSUD) 5W-30 is #20 (113K PSI) with very low (3.7%) durability performance loss at extremely high temperatures.

If you want to stick with a 40 due to your low compression issues, I’d go with QSUD Euro 5W-40. A 10W is way too thick as the vast majority of wear happens during warmup. You ideally want a 0W to get oil at startup to operating temp as quickly as possible.

If you need to add oil, you can add single bottles of QSUD 5W-30 or even 0W-20 to see how your engine deals with thinner viscosity over the life of a single change interval.

Only fill it to 1/4 below the full line to see if oil loss is reduced due to less windage and less parasitic drag on the splash-lubricated rotating internals. Fuel economy should go up.

This is some kickass info Thankyou very much x05. I’m gonna do an oil change today and let you guys know if it helps on my 450 mile trip tomorow

 

[Cpip1218]

I’ll add there is nothing normal about oil use, sorry, I ran my stock motor for 200000 miles with little to no oil usage.

Whatever you do don’t use mobile 1 5w30 it’s on the thinner side of 5w30 and turbo subarus eat it for lunch.

I agree man that’s why I came here as soon as I noticed the consumption shortly after buying I’ve been ready for a rebuild and you best believe I’ll add the killer b setup my buddies at 5th gear told me a good bit about them. They basically said the stock pick up is like a close hanger😂

 

[x05]

I have an STi oil pan, baffle and dipstick on the way. Scored a used KB oil pickup tube over on NASIOC and ordered a KB baffle for $79 with free shipping from OAKOS.

 

[x05]

This is some kickass info Thankyou very much x05. I’m gonna do an oil change today and let you guys know if it helps on my 450 mile trip tomorow

Np. What oil did you go with?