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Old 05-08-2011, 04:01 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default How to replace rear axle shaft?

Hi everyone,

3 out of 4 CV joints on the rear axle shaft are shot on my 2001 so I guess I'll replace the rear shaft ***'y.

Is it a big job to replace the rear axle? What problems I'm likely to run into? i dod not find anything on the forum yet?

Thanks
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Old 05-08-2011, 07:41 PM   #2 (permalink)
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This is for the fronts, but may help: Replacing a CV Axle?

TD
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Old 05-09-2011, 04:09 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks!

In fact the big question is should I take the diff out? If so, do I need to drain the oil first?

I found this How To: How To: Change rear axle - Subaru Impreza WRX STI Forums: IWSTI.com but it's seems to be specific to the STI not the Foz.
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Old 05-09-2011, 05:25 PM   #4 (permalink)
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No way do you need to remove the rear diff (or the gear oil in it if you do - but might be time to change the gear oil).

Edit: Yes, you can do it this way - mea culpa! (but only if you can't get the bolt out of the rear lateral links/control arms.)

When you undo the big axle nut, on the outer end of the axle, and remove the roll-pin on the diff side of the axle, it will be loose...I just can't remember what else, if anything, needs to be loose to get it out.

Td

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Old 05-09-2011, 05:56 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Just what I thought!

Chilton says you need to remove the diff to get the axle loose but it would not be the first time they are wrong!
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Old 05-09-2011, 07:55 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Well, I can't believe it but in this POST for a WRX they DO suggest dropping the rear diff...what a PITA!

Option #2 (this is how it's described in the FSM): Check THIS post on how to do an STI which should be similar. When removing that control arm bolt in #5, make sure it's been sprayed w/PB Blaster for as long in advance as you can.....If Quebec salt their roads yours is likely very rusty.

Option #3: Also, I 'think' that if you remove the 2 bottom bolts on the rear strut you can move it out of the way to get the axle out...but not sure...since I don't see it mentioned, probably not.

TD
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Old 05-10-2011, 02:40 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quebec do salts their roads so no it is likely to be rusty. I'm not sure if the control arms as the same as an STI but I'll check.

Worst case I'll take the diff out. Sometime it's just faster to things properly than try to cheat!
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Old 05-10-2011, 02:46 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I found that pulling the link bolt is the easiest way. You may have to destroy the bolt to get it out, so buy a new one in advance.
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Old 05-10-2011, 03:26 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I'll start to shoot some rustcheck on it. Should be handy when I'll be ready.
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Old 05-15-2011, 09:44 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Default C-Clip dimension?

I had to take down the diff since the control arm bolt was impossible to remove. Everything was alright until I put everything together. The c-clip were not on the old axles. I put everythin back together ( hey it worked for the old ones) but the axle keeps popping out

The closet suby dealer is a 2 hr drive and before pulling everything apart again I would like to have those clips on hands.

Do you know which sizes are those clips? I could get them locally before doing the fix.

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Old 08-17-2011, 03:27 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bezou View Post
Thanks!I found this How To: How To: Change rear axle - Subaru Impreza WRX STI Forums: IWSTI.com but it's seems to be specific to the STI not the Foz.
Anyone try this on their SF? And any extra parts I should get before hand?
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Old 08-18-2011, 08:46 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I have never done one in the back of the car, but I would have to think that it's easier than doing a front one. Probably much easier.
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Old 08-24-2011, 03:45 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Default Rear Axle replacement

Piece of Gateau!

1. Remove Caliper and disc.
2. Remove Knuckle brace bolt (17mm).
3. Support Knuckle with Jack.
4. Remove Knuckle Strut frame bolt (19mm).
5. Remove Axle nut.
6. Tap axle nut to loosen from hub.
7. Pry axle from differential.
Notes:
1. When replacing bolts use MolyLube liberally.
2. MOST IMPORTANT: The after-market boot clamp on the outside CV joint will likely be ripped off due to minimal clearance exposing the CV joint to dirt (Subaru uses special clamps). I've successfully made clamps using heavy wire and a tool called Clamp Maker available from Gempler's. Pay attention to the direction you make the clamp and the forward rotation of the CV joint.

Bonne Chance!
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