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Auto versus Manual transmission for towing

('09-'13) 
10K views 16 replies 7 participants last post by  RB211 
#1 ·
I am just about to take the plunge and buy a new 2013 Forester. I will be using the vehicle mainly for highway driving; I am going to buy a medium sized camper trailer so will be towing with the vehicle as well (probably doing about 3,000 to 4,000 ks a year of towing the camper). I was set on the 2L diesel manual until my neighbor advised me to go for the auto because it was better for towing and would save the cost of premature clutch replacement. To go with the auto option I will have go with the 2.5 L petrol. I am not too worried with the petrol engine as I don't do a lot of Ks. overall.

I would appreciate any comments or advice from Forester owners who have towed, and if it was a Manual how did the clutch stand up to the work. Thanks in advance and looking forward to getting behind the wheel.
 
#2 ·
Please check?
To the best of my knowledge the 2013 Australian delivered Diesel Forester is 6 speed manual transmission only? So if you want a diesel is manual only?

Call me conservative, but I would not want to couple a CVT to a tow vehicle. Call me old fasioned, but Subaru is still coupling the 5 Speed Auto to the turbo models. By these actions the CVT is not yet being given the big loads to pull.

I would rather change a clutch than replace an auto transmission.

Yes, I tow with a 2.5 Litre 5 speed manual and the Forester does it easily. Usually, I let the clutch up before engaging throttle with no problems. If it looks like a bad hill start, I pull low range and take off gently.

Why not look at a 2.5litre MY12 manual run-out
 
#3 ·
Thanks for info and sounds reassuring that a manual forester clutch is up for the job, and I believe the 2L D. is a 6 speed manual. Also you make a good point about the CVT auto not being 'tried and tested' for towing... I did consider a run out 2012 but thought if I was going to splurge I might as well go for the new model.. Do you know if the 2L D. 6 speed will have high / low range..? thanks for help
 
#4 ·
The six speeders do not have dual range.
I do a lot of Commissaire duty following the cycle racing pack. The dual range is just a treat for always finding a ratio to follow the cycle racing and keep the engine on the "sweet-spot".
Don't overlook the MY12 2.5 litre with the dual range manual?
Cheers!
 
#5 ·
My auto (4eat not CVT) has no engine braking to speak of. Engaging 3 manually makes little difference to the feeling of the car running away from you, engaging 2 makes a difference but the revs will be screaming. I would not fancy it with a heavy trailer if you are anywhere hilly. I tow a small cargo trailer only, but would get a manual if I had a caravan etc.

-- Steve
 
#6 ·
thanks for that Steve... I spoke to a Subaru specialist mechanic today who did advise me to steer away from the CVT transmission due not being 'tried and tested' for towing.. he also mentioned the clutches in the Forester manuals are very expensive to replace, so that would be a concern if towing caused premature failure ... be that as it may I am now steering towards a 2013 2.5L manual .. reason being I will not be doing a huge amount of towing and 90% of all my driving is in the country side and freeways so the clutch will not be getting a pounding anyway... any advice is appreciated - am spending a lot of money and want to make the right choice..!
 
#7 ·
ill be honest with you, if towing is part of your use, do not buy a forester or any other light duty car based CUV. the CVT is absolute crap for towing and a money pit when it does go out..the clutch on the manual will not hold up long term.. and yes, they are expensive as hell to replace too....considering the premature transmission work you will be facing id say you will end up cheaper in the long run buying a more expensive less economical vehicle more suited for towing..... but if you are set on the forester, go for the diesel manual.
 
#9 ·
and do you know what 1st gear is like in the diesel?

Personally, I'd say it depends on the kind of towing. Even with the manual's hill-holder I'd consider the auto/cvt option if it was for launching a boat often; but for long highway pulls I'd go diesel.
 
#10 ·
after some more thinking and careful consideration of how i will use the vehicle I am steering towards the petrol auto 2.5L.. most of my driving is highway and I will tow a medium weight camper trailer less than 5% of my total driving time (rest will mostly be highway). with the 2.5 auto I get the X mode for slipping and sliding off road or in snow, and I also can have the 'eyesight' smart cruise control .. i will tow carefully and do as much as I can under warranty...

BTW - my mechanic told me he did a clutch change in a late model Forester recently here in Sydney and it cost the owner A$2,500 ... ouch .. apparently the flywheel can't be machined and that has to be changed as part of the repair..
 
#11 ·
I replaced the dual mass flywheel assembly in an Outback. The full Exedy flywheel pressure plate and clutch plate kit cost me $770.00.
The kit takes a day to change.

If you wish to see some sad stories about towing with CVT transmissions read some of the Nissan X-Trail forums about failurs of CVT transmissions.
 
#12 ·
thanks for info on clutch - interesting... my local mechanic reckoned parts alone were almost $2k..

regarding Subaru CVT transmission reliability... I found some good info on the Outback forum..it has had CVT for several years.. a lot of comments from owners in US.. seems to be positive experiences.. no horror stories to speak of.. I want eyesight system so no choice but to go with the CVT...
 
#15 ·
thanks for the heads up on Exedy ... that would be the way to go ... so back to my original issue of whether to buy a manual or auto Forester for towing .... how can I expect the manual to stand up to towing a light camper trailer ..! even if I can get out of a clutch change for about $1200 (to old and buggered to do it myself .. I would have to get my mechanic to do it).. would hate to think I would be up for a new clutch every 20,000 or 30,000 Ks.
 
#16 ·
You are planning to tow a light camper trailer.
What makes you think that you are going to become super-heavy on the clutch?
You are not planning to start setting 400metre standing start times with the trailer behind.

The question you are asking implies that the Subarus have an inherantly weak clutch. The similar same design in used bascially across the N/A 4 cylinder range.
I know that I am biased because I know I am light on cluthes.
If I find myself in a tricky situation I pull low-range when starting from a stop and always use low range when reversing with the trailer.
So lets throw the question out to the forum.

What clutch life do other owners get out of their Outbacks or Foresters towing a light camper trailer?
 
#17 ·
The question you are asking implies that the Subarus have an inherantly weak clutch. The similar same design in used bascially across the N/A 4 cylinder range.
I know that I am biased because I know I am light on cluthes.
If I find myself in a tricky situation I pull low-range when starting from a stop and always use low range when reversing with the trailer.
So lets throw the question out to the forum.

What clutch life do other owners get out of their Outbacks or Foresters towing a light camper trailer?
I did get concerned when the local Subaru specilaist told me it was $2,500 to replace a clutch, and I did get the impression from him they were prone to premature failure .. maybe he's talking thru his rear end ..?

Anyway I am now hearing after market single mass clutches (Excedy) are a lot cheaper if I ended up burning one out.. anyway I am not saying they are prone to failure and would definately be interested to hear other opinions ..

BTW I'm easy on clutches , I have a manual Astra purchased new in 2001 , got 200k on the clock still with the original clutch - mostly highway driving though - not a bad effort
 
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