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2000 Forester Clutch Squeal

6K views 10 replies 5 participants last post by  Subyroo 
#1 ·
Since acquiring my 2000 Forester last fall, it has had an annoying clutch squeal and chirp.

The chirp occurrs when the car is idling and is in neutral. It is a repeating squeak-squeak-squeak-squeak, maybe 2 high-pitched squeaks per second.

The squeal occurrs when I push the clutch in for the first 3/4" or so, and sounds exactly like a squealing belt. It isn't a squeak, and I can hear it much better when the windows are down, indicating to me that it is coming from under the hood or under the car rather than inside the cabin (such as at the actual clutch pedal).

To further aggrivate my clutch woes, every now and then the clutch pedal may fail to return and has almost no resistance for the first few inches of pressing it. Although, I did find a TSB for this on this website, which sounds exacly like my problem and I plan to fix it.

FYI, the Forester has just under 95,000 miles on it and the PO (a family member who I trust) said the clutch was replaced around 85,000 miles at a Subaru dealer. I'm not sure if they also replaced the throwout bearing and fork....
 
#2 ·
I recently had my clutch done. The first job chirped like a cricket. As soon as even light pressure was applied to the pedal it quit. So, they had to take it right back apart to replace the defective throwout bearing. Another thing I noticed on mine was the clutch fork wobbled a lot where it comes out of the top of the transmission. There will be some vibration or light movement normally, but I'm talking probably 3/16" or more side-to-side shaking movement.

I would guess bad parts and/or bad install has something out of position.

The clutch pedal return not working is something with the pedal system. I would try bleeding it first (it's hydraulic like brakes).
 
#3 ·
Yeah, the throwout bearing is what I have been thinking. It definitely chirps like a cricket. I'm about to take it to a independent Subaru shop to get the timing belt done so I may have them look at this too. Roughly how much in labor will a throwout bearing replacement cost? I'd do it myself (and the timing belt), but I don't have a garage and I'd rather not tackle large jobs like that parked on the street....

I found a TSB on this forum about the clutch pedal not returning (can't post the link because I don't have 15 posts), but I'll tackle that myself sometime soon. It only happens every now and then.
 
#4 ·
Just to further support your sucpitions. The Squeak/ chir is the throwout bearing. My MY98 has the same noise and I located it by useing a mechanics sthescope. Since you can't post the link for the TSB I will say you need to replace the cluch slave cylinder and I would recommend the hose too. Don't forget to flush out all the old fluid. To repale the throwout bearing the engine has to come out so it will be a pretty big job. Make sure the shop has a good look at the clutch because this is the time to replace it even if it was resently done.
 
#5 ·
Thanks for your input.

I spoke with a the local independent Subie shop the other day and they said it would be about $700 to replace the throwout bearing, assuming other associated clutch parts were still OK. If it needs a new clutch and pressure plate (I done think it does but you never know...) it would be around $1000. Needless to say, I'm not thrilled. Without a good place to work on the car a throwout bearing is not something I could handle on my own, and it sounds like a PITA anyway.

Is is possible to just live with the noise and keep driving it? It seems to shift fine and the clutch works well the best that I can tell, except for the other problem (which I ordered the parts to fix today). I'd rather live with the noise than dump a grand into the car.
 
#6 ·
Yes, the squeaking is from the throw out bearing. It is dry and probably dirty. It will be fine. Not worth replacing if your clutch is running fine.

If you look closely in this picture, you will see the throw-out bearing in front of the pitch fork. This bearing cost peanuts and is a good investment in the long run if you get your clutch changed. Also, changing the rear crank seal on the engine is worth it too!!!!:icon_wink:

 
#8 ·
I would at least ask about the job supposedly done at the dealer. If they really did it (using a new t/o bearing) and it is a defective bearing or install, I would ask them to stand behind it and fix it even though you are a different owner (if you trust their ability). It's 10,000 miles and if less than a year or so I think it's a reasonable question to ask. Even with some improper clutch use I think it would be hard to make one chirp in 10,000 miles if there wasn't something else wrong. Questions are free - all they can do is say no.
 
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