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Old 10-05-2008, 05:43 PM   #1 (permalink)
 
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Default Who said changing spark plugs was easy?

I read up a few threads here and on scoobymods to see how to change the spark plugs. The general concensus was that it's a PITA but can be finished in about one hour.

4 hours later, many swear words and a few pounds lost in sweat I finished.

On reflection, with experience, it probably could be done in about an hour with no hiccoughs. My problem I think was crap tools. I have one of the cheapest socket wrenches out there and really if I had one which could hinge out to give a wider swing arc I'd have been smooth sailing. It also doesn't help that I didn't realise you had to rotate the coil packs 180 degrees to get them out of that insanely narrow space.

Anyway, I managed to save face and finish on my own and the car starts. My next project is a four pot front brake caliper ugrade with stainless steel brake lines which I am happy to let my mechanic sort out.
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Old 10-05-2008, 06:06 PM   #2 (permalink)
 
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Tell me about it. I still haven't changed mine after a little try as I come to realise I don't have the correct tools.
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Old 10-05-2008, 08:26 PM   #3 (permalink)
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There was a thread where someone described an easier way to get them out. I think he loosened up a couple motor mounts and jacked up the motor a touch on one side, and this allowed him to get a socket on the coil pack bolts.
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Old 10-05-2008, 08:41 PM   #4 (permalink)
 
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Does it say how to find the new spark plugs that I bought several months ago.
I can't find them anymore

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There was a thread where someone described an easier way to get them out. I think he loosened up a couple motor mounts and jacked up the motor a touch on one side, and this allowed him to get a socket on the coil pack bolts.
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Old 10-06-2008, 02:16 AM   #5 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan View Post
There was a thread where someone described an easier way to get them out. I think he loosened up a couple motor mounts and jacked up the motor a touch on one side, and this allowed him to get a socket on the coil pack bolts.
That seems excessive. I'm sure the Subaru engineers never intended for that? I'm going to start a search for new tools now as I really think that a better socket wrench and spark plug socket (maybe a longer or a swivel one) will help.

Anyone can suggest what works best?
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Old 10-06-2008, 03:56 AM   #6 (permalink)
 
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I did my first spark plug change on my N/A Forester about a month ago and found that removing the air cleaner box helps on the passenger side , but my biggest fight was getting the boots off the old plugs. The things I learned were : To have a couple of short extentions on hand to "build" the length I needed rather that a single long one .I have added some craftsman and Proto swivels and extentions to my toolkit that I picked up for next to nothing at yard sales and flea markets. Apply silicone boot grease to the new plugs , and apply anti-seize to the plug threads.
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Old 10-06-2008, 04:07 AM   #7 (permalink)
 
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Have to agree with Kiev, small extentions do help. anti-seize is the biggest thing to help Its all done by feel. I guess persistance and perhaps smaller hands.
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Old 10-06-2008, 04:44 AM   #8 (permalink)
 
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Huh, just did this to ours and had no real problems. Are the newer/turbo cars that different? I removed all the snorkus crap from the RH side of the bay and the washer reservoir from the LH side and had good access. I think I only needed one swivel.
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Old 10-06-2008, 07:21 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
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There was a thread where someone described an easier way to get them out. I think he loosened up a couple motor mounts and jacked up the motor a touch on one side, and this allowed him to get a socket on the coil pack bolts.
I found the thread: XT Spark Plugs = 20 minute job
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Old 10-06-2008, 09:09 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Are the newer/turbo cars that different?
the DOHC spark plugs are in a much more precarious spot than the SOHC ones.

It's really all about the tools. My technique is to take an old extension and cut it- not only make it the exact right length, but also so that the spring-loaded ball no longer grabs the ratchet and pulls the socket out when you try and disengage it.

It's better have a system where you can easily disengage the ratchet from the socket/extension, since there's not enough room to remove all of those pieces together.

any way you slice it, the Subaru DOHC motors make some normally mundane engine procedures a bit of a task.
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Old 10-06-2008, 12:38 PM   #11 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kiev88cm View Post
I did my first spark plug change on my N/A Forester about a month ago and found that removing the air cleaner box helps on the passenger side , but my biggest fight was getting the boots off the old plugs. The things I learned were : To have a couple of short extentions on hand to "build" the length I needed rather that a single long one .I have added some craftsman and Proto swivels and extentions to my toolkit that I picked up for next to nothing at yard sales and flea markets. Apply silicone boot grease to the new plugs , and apply anti-seize to the plug threads.

A ... "want to learn" question

What is the purpose of the silicone grease and anti-seize?

I changed change the plugs two weeks ago, and did not know about this ...
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Old 10-06-2008, 01:12 PM   #12 (permalink)
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The anti-seize allows you to remove the spark plugs the next time the need to be changed.
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Old 10-06-2008, 01:25 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Hotness + adjoining metals = seized parts = ARGG!!

If you change them about once a year, I found that it doesn't tend to be as bad. The older, the worse. I got my last set off no problem and there was no anti-seize used... that or they were torqued wrong...
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Old 10-07-2008, 02:35 AM   #14 (permalink)
 
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The silicone grease goese on the spark plug boots to help them come off easier the next time and it doesen't degrade the rubber.
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Old 10-07-2008, 02:52 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guroove View Post
The anti-seize allows you to remove the spark plugs the next time the need to be changed.
There is a lot of disagreement on the use of anti-sieze. It probably helps in removal but its not a magic bullet. Some brands of plugs caution against using antisieze as the threads already have a built in lube.
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