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Old 02-04-2009, 01:46 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Steps to replace the Fuel Filler Neck?

If anyone knows of a past thread on the replacement of the filler neck, 2000 Forester I would apreciate it. (yeah, I know, I need a factory service manual).
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Old 02-04-2009, 02:24 PM   #2 (permalink)
 
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If anyone knows of a past thread on the replacement of the filler neck, 2000 Forester I would apreciate it. (yeah, I know, I need a factory service manual).
I had my mech replace it, but I don't think it is hard except for the rollover sensor. It is about an hour's work.
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Old 02-05-2009, 02:34 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Yep, shop time is .7 of an hour so 1 hr should about do it. I imagine the trick is draining the fuel out first.
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Old 02-05-2009, 02:43 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Default .7hrs, I can handle that

Ok, but I am not dropping the tank right? So I was planning to just run the Forester 15 miles into my low fuel warning light. Then, from what I can see I will remove the wheel, remove the shield which is covering the neck, unbolt the outside bolts around the cap area, then I planned to just figure it out from there. That neck must enter the tank through a rubber grommet or something. I really need to get the manual. I just don't want to get in there and get to a piont where I can not proceed because I will be at a remote location.

I just did the mechanical fix for the Cat, can't wait to see if it works.
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Old 02-05-2009, 03:14 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Had a friend (subaru tech) replace it on my '99(girlfriends now), I got to watch, and no you don't need to drop the tank. What looks like the first problem according to him is the bolts/ screws holding it at the filler neck, spray your fave penetrating lube around there for a couple of days. If they are bolts and they break from being seized, no problem and if they are screws and they strip just drill them out. When you remove the plastic cover, expect a lot of crud to fall out, you'll see why the pipe rusts out. You'll have to remove a couple of hose's and the overflow line is attached to the body so once you have the cover off, spray those with penetrating lube before attempting to remove them. When you order the parts you'll need your VIN, it's a good idea to order new hoses and all new related clamps!!! On the tech's recommendation we ordered new return lines as well, they can get kinked while snaking the pipe out. If the parts guy/gal is good they'll know all the parts to order, it's better to have all the bolts/screws as well. Hopefully they'll let you look at the computer to see all the related parts. Worth while power washing the wheel well and underneath prior to working on it, be safe and use jack stands. If I had the space and a heated garage, I think I could have done the job, but we've been locked in to -Celius temps since late December:
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Old 02-05-2009, 03:22 PM   #6 (permalink)
 
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Check Engine Light PO440 Suggestions

Yeah, I had this problem within a few months of buying the car, good preventative is to clean that shield yearly.
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Old 02-05-2009, 06:29 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Default Thanks

Thanks for the great words, I appreciate it. I am now better prepared as to what I might find under there. I think that this fix will more than likely correct error code
P0451, (Tank Pressure) and possible P0440, (evap). I saw a great article here about cleaning the vent system which ends up somewhere in the back rail too. I will gunk that out while I'm at it. On a more positive note, I really love the car. It is solid, feels safe, and is comfortable. Plus it has plenty of power when I need it. And so what if it looks like the Popemobile.
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Old 02-07-2009, 06:48 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Default Done

DONE! Took an hour. Tons of crud came out and the neck was a mess of rust thru. But now the tank vents properly so it will take gas. It took care of 2 codes: P0451, (Tank Pressure) and possible P0440, (evap).
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Old 02-07-2009, 07:11 PM   #9 (permalink)
 
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DONE! Took an hour. Tons of crud came out and the neck was a mess of rust thru. But now the tank vents properly so it will take gas. It took care of 2 codes: P0451, (Tank Pressure) and possible P0440, (evap).
Congratz! If I had any clue what was wrong with mine I would have tried the DIY method, but it didn't cost too much I guess.
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Old 02-11-2009, 05:55 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Default Salvagable?

Maybe I can fix this one, what do you think?





This pile of crud was underneath the shield:

Thanks to all posts which steered me in the right direction.
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Old 08-21-2009, 11:47 PM   #11 (permalink)
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hello i got a 99 forester with same problem, does anyone know or guess how much this is going to cost,? mines totally rusted , tube , returns lines , everything is very brittle!
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Old 03-10-2010, 11:16 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I have a similar issue.
Do I need to drain fuel or not? Run the car to almost empty?
I found parts on ebay for $169. Sounds good to me.
Why do all Subaru Forester 98-02 rusts at fuel neck/trunk latch/rear wiper?

Thanks,
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Old 03-25-2010, 09:51 AM   #13 (permalink)
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I find one at my local scrap-yard. 75$ in a realy good condition.
almost 220$ at my dealer
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Old 04-10-2010, 04:48 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I'm bumping this too. Can someone tell me what is the small "box on top of the filler, and its purpose?
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Old 05-24-2010, 04:26 AM   #15 (permalink)
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It's the rollover sensor.
I will be doing this job soon also, as everything on mine is rusted.
I'll be replacing everything, sensor,vent lines, etc
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