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Old 11-08-2010, 05:53 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default crankshaft pulley bolt

We just got a 99 Forester L with 100k miles, auto trans in white. Only drove it less than a week and my bride calls to say she is hearing terrible noises, and the battery and brake lights are on and it's hard to steer. She limped it home and I look under the hood to see both belts are off of the crankshaft pulley and the pulley is wobbly loose. I was able to undo the bolt with my fingers!

The back (rear) side if kinda bumped up and the woodruff key on the crankshaft timing pulley is battered/bent toward the passenger side so I can't get the main PS alternator AC pulley back on.

Now imagine that I had already posted 15 posts so I could link to my photos...
see the bumps - is this bad enough to need replacing?
and here's the bent wooduff key - should I replace this belt drive gear too?

Well 105k is just around the corner so I might as well replace the timing belt. I'll need a new woodruff key and hopefully the crankshaft itself isn't damaged.

I'm new to this, and watched Huck This' timing belt youtube vids (thanks Huck!) so I have the timing belt cover off and I'm getting ready to order parts.

I don't want take it further apart until I have the replacement parts, and I'm looking for advice on what to order.

Thanks!

Last edited by otterpop; 11-09-2010 at 10:19 AM. Reason: removed extra word "with" before woodruff key
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Old 11-08-2010, 05:55 PM   #2 (permalink)
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now just 13 more posts and I can link to my photos?
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Old 11-08-2010, 07:15 PM   #3 (permalink)
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You can link them in thumbnails that we'll be able to enlarge without having 15 posts. You just can't embed them.
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Old 11-09-2010, 10:16 AM   #4 (permalink)
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ok thanks, I'll "attach" them.crankshaft pulley bolt-crank-pulley-1110.jpg

crankshaft pulley bolt-bent-woodruff-key.jpg
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Old 11-09-2010, 02:54 PM   #5 (permalink)
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You are not the first, it happens. Did a friends outback earlier this year that was far worse then yours is. There was virtually no keyway left on the crank in his, but we saved it and installed a new pulley. He has almost 280K on his so we went with a mostly permanent repair.
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Old 11-09-2010, 04:36 PM   #6 (permalink)
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So do you think I should replace the forward pulley for the Alt and AC, based on its banged up appearance? Anything else, anyone?
Thanks!
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Old 11-09-2010, 05:13 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Going by the pic I would. Typically about $30USD at a salvage yard, Autozone has a Doorman for around $80 and you don't want to know how much the OEM is from the dealer.
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Old 11-09-2010, 06:23 PM   #8 (permalink)
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your crank pulley is shot. it should look like this
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Old 11-15-2010, 06:15 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Where should I buy parts to get the best quality and lowest price? My local Subaru dealer is quoting $1002.80 in parts for replacing almost everything behind the timing belt cover, including:
Timing Belt $110.10
Crankshaft pulley (front) $220.26
Woodruff key $3.34
Idler pulleys (3) at $91.74, $61.14 and $100.14
Tensioner $183.54
Water Pump and gasket $122.34
Oil Seal $10.49
Oil pump O-ring $?
There was something else I didn't write down, but the total is $1002.80.

Are these prices fair, too high or too low? The only benefit is they are here in Hawaii and I can pick them up right away. I'm willing to wait if the savings are substantial buying online and paying shipping.

Thanks!
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Old 11-15-2010, 07:22 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I've used

Import Replacement Parts

free shipping over $100
Koyo NSK NTN are factory parts. bando or misuboshi belts are good.

online subaru parts
1stsubaruparts.com

or
carpartsdiscount they have the crank pulley (harmonic balancer)

maybe ebay for crank pulley. search for subaru harmonic balancer or crank pulley
there is a genuine subaru dealer on there now.
or other online parts
Car-Part.com

I don't know the size of the key. Might be dealer only

Last edited by TDYSPROB; 11-15-2010 at 07:48 PM.
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Old 11-22-2010, 11:58 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Thanks!

OK, I got the parts, now I just need to dive in, remove the timing belt, replace the oil seals and water pump, and put it all together again. I am a bit over my head on this one having only watched a few youtube videos and read this forum for tips.

Is there a source for the torque specs on all the bolts I'll be replacing? Or a diagram of the front of the SOHC engine with part numbers showing what goes where? I'll be searching other threads and checking back here in hopes of some good answers.

Thanks again...
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Old 11-22-2010, 01:38 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Found the specs and procedure here
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Old 11-22-2010, 02:39 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Hopefully this will help. Good Luck.
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File Type: pdf TimingBelt.pdf (189.4 KB, 3370 views)
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Old 11-22-2010, 06:10 PM   #14 (permalink)
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That does help. Thanks!
So the 2.2 and the 2.5 are the same inside the timing belt cover?
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Old 11-29-2010, 11:37 AM   #15 (permalink)
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The plot thickens. I'm planning to replace the oil seals for the crank and camshafts. After pulling the driver's side cam pulley, I'm surprised to find there is no woodruff key and instead the pulley has been drilled, pinned and marked with a new timing mark. See pics.

Would you replace the pulley or go with it as is? It ran fine before, but I have to wonder if this little jury rig has contributed to the oil seal leaking behind it?

Lastly, what's the proper method of removing the old seals?

I'm learning a lot here, so thanks for providing such an excellent resource!
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crankshaft pulley bolt-l-cam-pulley-front-timing-marks-drilled.jpg   crankshaft pulley bolt-l-cam-pulley-rear-pinned.jpg   crankshaft pulley bolt-l-camshaft-oil-leak.jpg  
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