98GreenForester

First to start off, this is a great forum.

I just got done doing my timing belt, crank seal, and water pump on my 98 DOHC Forester. Now the valves tap and I have the "check engine" on. When I set the timing for the belt, everything was dead on. I tried to crank it by hand a few times and the marks on the belt never aligned with the marks on the cams or crank again. I crank it over clockwise probably about ten times, never aligned again. Is this normal? Everytime I would set it at TDC the marks on the belt would never align again, but the physical cam and crank marks still aligned perfect? Do you guys think my belt jumped?

After I finished everything, I started the car and the valves sound like they were tapping, before the engine was smooth like butter. I was thinking I might have damaged the valves because when you try to align the cam spockets those boogers love to spin. Do you guys have any tips or suggestions? Thanks in advance.

Tau137

Never is not the right word. They should align eventually. But yeah, that's normal.


The obvious starts would be to take the cover off and check the belt. It might have slipped, some pulley or waterpump might have seized, tensioner might have failed.

As for "manual" valve damage - while it's technically possible, it's highly unlikely if you aligned the cams/crank properly before belt removal and were careful during installation. You'd need to turn both cams in the wrong direction(s) to get the valve contact.

98GreenForester

From the sounds of it, it sounds like intake valves ticking. I thought maybe I damaged the valves, because before the motor had no valve ticking noise. It runs perfect but with the ticking. I am going to check the "check engine" code. Everytime when I set it at TDC all the physical marks on the crank and cam still line up perfect. I am going to check it one more time today. Thanks for verifing about the timing marks on the belt, I thought I was going crazy.

98GreenForester

Well, I finally checked the trouble codes and it is cylinder 1 and 3 misfire. I think the timing must have jumped. I hope I didn't do damage to the engine because I ran and test drove it around for a bit. The saga continues........

98GreenForester

Well, got a new adjuster installed it and no more check engine light. But valves still tap. I must have damaged the valves some how. Oh well, I will just drive it until the motor dies and then its time for a turbo motor swap. Thanks

Tau137

1. Why the adjusted? Did the timing actually jump? Is the belt alright?

2. Check compression. Easy enough to do for the piece of mind (or lack of it).

98GreenForester

Looks like the timing jump on both cams for head number 1 and 3, it jumped one tooth. It does feel a bit slower now, but it might be that I have been driving my 280 hp NA civic hatchback around . I know that there is something wrong cuz the valves are ticking, before I had no valve noise at all. But I am going to do a comp test when I get a chance, its just a pain taking the plugs out on these DOHC. Thanks

mo biker

just a tip, tho you probably know, the ticking you hear may be the fuel injection (normal) if you have damaged the valves it would prob not run at all. get a long screwdriver or similar and use it as a stethascope to listen to different parts of the engine..............carefully!
hope it helps
mo

98GreenForester

I don't think its the valves either, I listened with a scope and I think it is the smooth timing idler at the bottom making the noise. Since the new belt was in and now actaully tight, it probably put more pressure on the pulley bearing. Oh well, I will change it when it is screeching, its too hot here in MN 90+ degrees with 80% humidity, and I am too lazy.

ferret

I would not wait for an idler to fail ....especially on the DOHC engines. There are too many threads on many boards about complete engine failure from a failed idler.

Valve to Valve ..... and Valve to Piston.

My $.02

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