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Old 09-03-2010, 11:12 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Breaking crank pulley bolt on a MT

Just bought an 05 2.5X, my first Subie. It has 99,000 on it and I'm going to do the timing belt myself. And I have a few questions.

The car is a manual trans. Is it just as safe to put the car in 5th gear and have somebody stand on the brake pedal while I'm trying to break the crank pulley bolt free? Or is it wiser to buy the tool? I'm going to buy an 18 or 24" 1/2" drive breaker bar and a 22mm flank drive socket and then find a suitable piece of pipe to use as a cheater.

Also, I want to replace the cam seals. Do I need a tool to hold the cam sprocket still to break that bolt or is it not torque much? Is the cam shaft keyed so that the sprocket can only go one one way?


Is there a good source for all the torque specs on all of the fasteners on the front of the engine?


Thanks.

-Dustin
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Old 09-03-2010, 11:22 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Brace a breaker bar against the frame rail, unplug the coil pack, crank the motor. The starter has MORE than enough torque to break that bolt free. Works like a charm, but scary as hell the first time you do it.
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Old 09-03-2010, 11:36 AM   #3 (permalink)
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You can do as BAC said, can also put it in 5th gear and have a friend stand on the brake or make a tool.
DIY crank pulley wrench

Typically you can break the cam bolts loose before removing the t-belt with out any issues, retorque after installing the new belt.
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Old 09-03-2010, 12:15 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Though I really don't like the sound of the frame rail/starter crank method- is an 18" breaker enough to reach the frame wheel or will I need a longer one?

I have done a timing belt on my Integra- an inline 4. My tool set is pretty sparse (3/8 socket set, ratchet, extensions, some flare nut wrenches, 1 3/8" torque wrench that goes to 80 ft lbs) so I think I'm going to be buying some so I can wrench on this new Subie more.
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Old 09-03-2010, 12:34 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fozzynomad View Post
Though I really don't like the sound of the frame rail/starter crank method- is an 18" breaker enough to reach the frame wheel or will I need a longer one?
IIRC 18" does not reach, but a cheater pipe takes care of that.
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Old 09-03-2010, 04:41 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Just for clarification, does the bar go on top of the driver's frame rail?
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Old 09-04-2010, 02:56 AM   #7 (permalink)
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If the crank pulley turns clockwise, then yes.
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Old 09-17-2010, 10:18 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Bump.

Any other input on breaking the crank bolt? Torque specs on all the bolts around there?
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Old 09-17-2010, 10:23 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Break the crank bolt the way I suggested.

Torque specs, I don't have off hand. Sorry.
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Old 09-17-2010, 10:46 AM   #10 (permalink)
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I have done it this way all the way back to MY90 Legacy LS wagon. I put a pipe on the end of the breaker bar and lay it on the ground toward the drivers side. Hit the key once real quick and VOILA ... hand loose.

Since then I have used this method easily more than 50 times ..... want to say over 100, but that may not be true. For my own and other Subarus I help take care of.

Works equally well on Manual or Automatics ..... now to re-torque, Manuals are easier ....... 5th gear and parking brake on. Then torque to 140 ft lbs. Automatics, I have someone HOLD a large screwdriver in the Access Hole behind/below the throttle body.
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Old 09-17-2010, 10:49 AM   #11 (permalink)
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The ground is a good idea. The car has always been on a lift when I do it, so the frame is much easier.

I haven't done it on 100 cars, but I've definitely done it on every timing belt I've ever done and seen done.
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Old 09-17-2010, 10:58 AM   #12 (permalink)
 
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I remember the 1st time I saw my brother do what BAC suggested in person. We were at a LGT install day helping put a FPgreen on a 05 wagon. The reaction of someone was "you want to do what" LOL
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Old 09-17-2010, 12:01 PM   #13 (permalink)
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You have been given the secrets now it is up to you to use them.
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Old 09-17-2010, 01:31 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Thanks!

Where can I find the torque specs for all the other bolts in there?

Are the cam sprockets keyed? I ask because I am going to swap out the cam seals (anybody have pictures of drilling a hole in them and using a self tapping screw) and want to know if it is real easy to fck up replacing the sprockets as I crank it to the service position I was going to if I were doing just the timing belt.
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Old 09-17-2010, 01:55 PM   #15 (permalink)
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This is what I use for a seal puller, no need for the drilling or self tapping screws.
Lisle Corporation

I strongly suggest getting an OEM manual, either hard copy or PDF.
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