bluesubie

IDMO - Sometimes an oil will show high metal wear if your bearings are starting to go, but your copper is the only thing that is high so it might be a specific problem. The oil remained a 30 weight viscosity so that's very good. I would post this on bitog for some expert comments on the copper. They might even suggest a Dyson analysis. Although Ifdal's copper eventually came down.
Blackstone's explanation of elements. What kind of in-line oil filter are you talking about? It's definitely not the fumoto.

ifdal - Your engine is wearing perfectly, but the oil sheared to a 20 weight in under 3,000 miles! Do you have an OEM air filter (silicon)? You could probably go 4-5k miles on the PP, IMHO.

-Dennis

lfdal

Dennis -

It's an OEM air filter with about 8k on it when the oil was sampled. I'm still using the OEM oil filter's as well. You thinking I should migrate to a 40w for the summer?

Driving for these last 6000 or so miles has been 90% (at least) stop and go.

I'm guessing IDMO was mentioning the two in line oil filters for the AVCS system. There was a TSB about them mentioning, IIRC, that they could drop and impede oil flow to that part of system. I removed mine a while back.

__________________
Larry D
08 OBW Ltd,
Missing my 04 FXT 4EAT

bluesubie

Larry,

I guess it depends on your comfort level and how long you plan to run it. I usually go with thicker 30 weights (thicker at 100 cst) for peace of mind. A lot of Energy Conserving 30 weights will shear to a 20 weight in a turbo in 3k miles. The PP might hold up a little better. I'm actually sampling my Motul 8100 5W30 today and expect it to be a 20 weight. I wanted something thin for winter to see if it would help with fuel dilution. German Castrol 0W30 will be in before it gets too hot out.

Ok, now I remember about the in-line oil filter. Thanks.

-Dennis

IDMO

Thanks. I'll probably go 3k this time around and send it in for a Dyson analysis.

The filter I was talking about is discussed here: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=906921

I'm just thinking of anything copper or brass that I could have screwed around with.

bluesubie

That might be it. Maybe just hold off on the Dyson until you do another UOA. If it has something to do with what you did, the copper should drop.

Unless, of course, you just want to do a Dyson anyway. :)

-Dennis

IDMO

Sorry, not sure what UOA is but I'm assuming it's something Oil Analysis. So I should just do a normal analysis and see if Copper dropped and then go from there on getting a Dyson done? I seem to remember seeing where they can do a Dyson with your sample even after you've received the results for the standard analysis. If so, that's probably the route I'll take.

bluesubie

UOA = used oil analysis. Yes, if it's just from a one-time occurance (like working on the in-line filter) copper should show a drop to lower levels with a regular uoa. You can also just post it on bobistheoilguy.com for some expert advice.

-Dennis

SubaJew

New results attached:

Attached Images

BstoneD06470edited.pdf (299.6 KB, 22 views)

__________________
'05 FXT 4EAT (SG9CYBT) PSM Stage 1

bluesubie

Nice! Mine is below. I switched to Motul 8100 5W30 because I wanted something thinner than the German Castrol I was running. I was having high fuel dilution in the winter due to my 5 mile commute.
The Motul is a thin 30 weight and I'm impressed that it stayed in grade.

Equipment make: Subaru
Equipment model: 2.5L Turbo
Oil use interval: 5,900
Oil type & Grade: Motul 8100 Eco-nergy 5W30
Make-up oil added: .25 qts.
Miles on unit: 59,650
Air filter: OEM
Oil filter: OEM

Dennis: Sodium dropped again, and wear looks terrific. The TBN read 4.8, still plenty of active additive left in the oil. We’re glad to see that you haven’t changed this oil yet. It still has plenty of life left in it. No fuel or antifreeze found. Add another 2,000 or 3,000 and check back. If wear still reads low, you may not even need to change it at that point.

Aluminum 4 5 4 4 4 6
Chromium 1 1 1 1 1 1
Iron 11 12 16 11 10 15
Copper 6 8 7 10 6 20
Lead 2 3 3 3 2 2
Tin 0 1 0 1 0 0
Molybdenum 3 2 9 4 12 63
Nickel 0 0 0 0 1 0
Maganese 0 1 0 0 0 0
Silver 0 0 0 0 0 0
Titanium 0 0 0 0 0 0
Potassium 0 2 0 0 0 3
Boron 1 0 0 1 14 115
Silicon 14 13 15 15 18
Sodium 11 19 18 6 2 6
Calcium 1252 1783 2165 1689 2582 3394
Magnesium 953 530 436 398 106 10
Phosphorous 932 796 816 754 680 764
Zinc 1025 974 1011 909 818 904
Barium 0 0 0 0 0 1

Properties
SUS Viscosity @ 210F: 58 66.2 66.4 64.4 64.8 57.8 [56-63]
Flashpoint: 370 380 380 385 365 395 [>365]
Fuel %: .5 TR .2.3 .5 1.0 .5 [<2.0]
Antifreeze: 0 0 ? 0 0 0 [0]
Water: 0 0 0 0 0 0[<0.1]
Insolubules: .3 .4 .2 .5 .4 .5 [<.6]

gman

My UOA & discussion here.

Summary: Coastal 5W30 came out thin, and diluted w/fuel, but wear numbers were good.

pleiad7

Just got my Blackstone results from my most recent sample, taken at ~91k miles. Still looking good...

__________________
-Silke
04 FXT PP PSM ~ "Subed"
98 Forester S ~ "Slynki"
92 SVX LS-L ~ x2

pleiad7

Follow-up question to my above post... Is the increased wear due to the shearing of the oil? Should I be using a different weight, or is it normal for wear to increase as the motor ages?

Oh, and I'm pleasantly surprised that the SPT intake does a decent job at filtering out particles.

__________________
-Silke
04 FXT PP PSM ~ "Subed"
98 Forester S ~ "Slynki"
92 SVX LS-L ~ x2

bluesubie

A thin oil sometimes shows more wear but your increased wear is just a little blip. Folks at bitog have been commenting lately that M1 30 weights have been showing more wear in general though. A more robust and thicker M1 is the M1 10W30 High Mileage. It's European ACEA A3 rated and only a handful of 30 weights in the U.S. get that.

I'm not sure that engine wear and age go hand in hand (but it does make sense). Maybe post at bitog. I'll try to search later when I have time. The best dirt filtration will show Si in the single digits.

-Dennis

bluesubie

Another thing. I'm actually suprised that the viscosity stayed in grade so well in your previous reports. Usually, an Energy Conserving oil shearing to a 20 weight is normal (especially in a turbo). That's why Blackstone says to extend the interval even when it's a 20 weight.

I found a few interesting links to read on bitog:

Thicker oil with high mileage?

Acceptable wear metal ranges (the Audi guy really knows his stuff!)

* Who doesn't like HM oils and why?

What is oil analysis (also in the link above)?

*My two cents:
Regardless if people think HM oils are marketing hype, they are usually thicker oils. M1 10W30 is 10.0 cst's at 100C
M1 10W30 HM is 11.79.

-Dennis

pleiad7

^^ cool, thanks for the feedback and links!

__________________
-Silke
04 FXT PP PSM ~ "Subed"
98 Forester S ~ "Slynki"
92 SVX LS-L ~ x2