1999 forester timing belt - Subaru Forester Owners Forum
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-17-2007, 07:38 AM Thread Starter
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Question 1999 forester timing belt

Wheres the timing belt on the 99 foresters? Is it one of the exposed visible belts, or under that plastic cover? How hard to replace that and the tensioner (and maybe water pump while I'm in there)???

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'99 Subaru Forester S Version
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-17-2007, 12:18 PM
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The timing belt is under the plastic cover. To replace the TB you need to remove the cooling fans, PS & PB, AC belts(the visable ones), the crank pulley (~125 ft/lbs torque). Have a look at www.endwrench.com

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-18-2007, 03:56 AM Thread Starter
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Only hard part sounds like the crank pulley with the 125 ft-lbs torque. Be nice if I had an air-driven impact wrench but I don't.

SO: when a timing belt starts going bad/old, are there any signs or symptoms to look for? Funny sounds, etc? How many miles should it be replaced at? My 99 forester has 67k miles now.

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-18-2007, 04:08 AM Thread Starter
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Founds some info... recommended change at 100k miles, and pully torque is really 130 ft-lbs. Any other info would be appreciated, I'll be doiong this job this summer,. thanks!

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-18-2007, 04:34 AM
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Use the search function. This has been covered. Most recently by:

Timing belt and pump change!!!

98S, 2014 Impreza 5 dr Ltd (9 Subaru's since 1978, 7 were 5 sp) ILuvSubaru's
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-18-2007, 04:45 AM Thread Starter
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thanks, that link gives a lot of good info. Think I'll use an oem belt with the timing marks, etc. Think I'll be swapping out everything I can while I'm in there, water pump, all seals etc. Semms like a big job but step by step should be ok. Wonder what dealer wants for the job,.......

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-18-2007, 05:19 AM
 
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Note: The torque spec on the crank pulley has gone up every year since 1989. I would torque it to the newest torque spec.

I've seen pulleys loosen up and go wobbly, destroying the crank. It's a cryin shame to see a motor blown not by having fun, but from something as dull as a wobbly crank pulley.

For the dealer, a timing belt, all seals, water pump, and accessory belts, I think the running-tab is around $1600 or so, last I checked. Compared to the dealer, every option is an innexpensive option.

09 SWP Outback 2.5XT 5MT 263whp, 337 lb-ft
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-18-2007, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by BAC5.2 View Post
I've seen pulleys loosen up and go wobbly, destroying the crank. It's a cryin shame to see a motor blown not by having fun, but from something as dull as a wobbly crank pulley.
That is a really good bit of information... I just tightened my crank pulley down as hard as I could by hand I'm going to have to check that...

Getting the crank pulley bolt off is tricky, without an air wrench you can either jam something into the flywheel (this is the ghetto way, and is a lot harder than it sounds) or you can use the starter motor and jam a breaker bar against the body.

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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-18-2007, 11:57 AM Thread Starter
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Interesting idea on using the starter motor to loosen that crank pulley..... anyone else ever done that? safe?

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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-18-2007, 12:01 PM
 
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I've done it. It's save, so long as you don't accidentially start the car.

I'd unplug the coil pack before trying it. Make sure you know which way the motor is going to turn over. I've heard of people throwing 3' long breaker bars out of their engine bays and across the garage from having it on the wrong side.

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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-18-2007, 01:05 PM
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There is a rubber plug on the left side of the engine bell housings (looking into the engine bay). The plug is black on my car and is somewhat just under the intake manifold. Remove the plug and use a strong, long, flat blade screwdriver to lock the flywheel. Use only a 6 point socket socket and a 3 foot braker bar. The bolt seems to take about 200 ft/lbs to loosen. Use a torque wrench to tighten. I think it is unwise to try to break the nut loose with the starter and from what I heard it often does'nt work and can damage the starter. I found it a 2 person job.

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