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Old 11-14-2012, 04:42 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Secondary Air Injection Blockoff plates

Want to delete your Secondary Air Injection Pump? Getting codes from it when it continuously fails? Here's the cheap and somewhat easy way to end the problems.

You need two of these: Subaru P/N: 14754AA050

They retail for 3.70 at the dealer. You can probably get the for a better price through Jackie at Annapolis Subaru. A vendor on our forum.

For the blockoff plate you are going to put on the driverside, you will need to very slightly elongate one of the bolt holes. Test fit it first and then use a drill to elongate the hole.

Re-use the factory gaskets.

After deleting the air pump, you will need to have a tuner disable all of the related check-engine codes.


Here's an awesome how-to for people who didn't get the jist of what I quickly went over!

http://www.iwsti.com/forums/how-inst...p-removal.html
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Old 11-14-2012, 05:11 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I know FXTSPORTS08 CNC'ed some for Tuned200 based off the gaskets. I wonder if he could machine some more.
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Old 11-14-2012, 05:44 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Nate has a link to em on his journal I think.
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Old 11-15-2012, 03:17 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Hmm I'll try to dig through it, thanks
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Old 11-15-2012, 04:08 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Found the part numbers! Updated first post with the parts you need and total cost to delete the pump.
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Old 11-15-2012, 04:44 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Me and nate were both interested in this but heard it could cause idle issues so we didnt end up doing it. Of course now that I think of it, I could just unplug the airpump power plug and see how it works before removing the system. I might try it. You can remove all codes through access tuner race.
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Old 11-15-2012, 04:51 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Superacerc View Post
Me and nate were both interested in this but heard it could cause idle issues so we didnt end up doing it. Of course now that I think of it, I could just unplug the airpump power plug and see how it works before removing the system. I might try it. You can remove all codes through access tuner race.
I'm going to do it this upcoming week so I'll let you know how it goes. My tuner has done it on a few cars and noone has had any issues he said. I guess we'll find out when I do it!
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Old 11-15-2012, 05:00 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Had this done for over a year now. No idling issues whatsoever (erratic, surging, etc) in both hot or cold weather here in New England. Only good things came out of this mod, no more CELs! Yes, you need some sort of programming solution to remove the codes..
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Old 11-15-2012, 12:11 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Unplugged mine. I see no difference yet and no cels yet. I'm sure they'll come. I went ahead and deleted p0410 from my list of possible codes. Ill see if any others pop up.

Edit: Ordered block off plates.
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Old 11-15-2012, 01:30 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I dont see a reason to delete them until they fail as there is no performance gain from it unless you are trying to run a turbo that will not clear them. I will probly delete them sooner or later but it is low on my list for the time being as its not the easiest thing to get to in the cramped engine bay. Im glad my findings on the part number and write up helped you out connor make sure you do a write up as well.
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Old 11-15-2012, 01:36 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I just need something to occupy my time and it drops a few pounds and declutters the engine bay a bit. Otherwise, just bored.
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Old 11-15-2012, 03:47 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Had to do something about mine. It failed open and exhaust fumes was getting inside the cabin when the vehicle is not moving. Had to drive with the windows open for a couple of months during the summer last year, wasn't fun..

Last edited by DaveE; 11-15-2012 at 03:48 PM. Reason: Damn auto correct!
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Old 12-14-2012, 10:16 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I blocked off my secondary air injection ports and removed the system today.

That was the most difficult thing I've done on the foz yet. Took eight hours!

I started off thinking id spend an hour or two maybe and started ripping the system out. At that point I was committed and had to finish.

Fyi, the plates nate posted about only half worked without modification. The passenger side fit just barely but the drivers side requires you to drill the holes out for a larger bolts and you have to slot them cause the bolt pattern is narrower slightly. A drill press would be the easiest way to do that.

I pulled out the pump, plastic drivers side tubing in front of the injectors, drivers side valve(round thingy with with plug), and the aluminum 30 angled plate where the air actually enters the block. Then capped off that side with the modified plate. Nothing had to be removed to do this part besides the system itself. That doesn't sound too bad does it? Keep reading.


For the passenger side the plate is right behind the uppipe about 1/3" away from it. Nothing I know of can get that out without removing the pipe. To get the uppipe out though you have to remove the down pipe cause theres a nut that had no clearance from it until its off.

To remove the down pipe I had to take off my turbo blanket and down pipe blanket. Then when I tried to remove the uppipe theres no room to get it out so I had to remove the headers.

I was relieved when I got the pipe off and finally undid the bolts. Boy was I disused and pissed off to find out its a metal pipe going from the valve on that side and those two bolts to remove it are behind......wait for it........... The turbo! I had to remove the turbo to be able to fully remove the original piping.

But, to remove the turbo the whole intercooler had to come off. Not too difficult.

I was pretty fed up at this point as you can imagine. I pulled everything off the turbo except the coolant inlet line(to keep me from pouring volant all over my garage floor). It was flexible enough to move out of the way with that one line attached.

I finally got the two tiny bolts out holding the piping to the valve. I left that valve in due to the difficulty involved. Looks like the manifold may have to come off for that one. No thanks. Also right before the valve is the air pressure sensor. I left it alone. Then I took a utility knife and cut the hose loose that runs the air from the drivers side over the top of the tranny into the sensor and second valve because it was toi difficult to get to the hose clamp. I cut it right on top of the tranny near the hose champ as possible. All thats left of the system is the second valve and sensors.


My advice to anyone planning to do this is to do it when you do a turbo swap or just leave it alone. Probably weighs a total of 5lbs.

I woild have never attempted it had I understood the implications.
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