It's safe to jack up the engine using the oil pan, right? - Subaru Forester Owners Forum
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-11-2007, 01:22 PM Thread Starter
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It's safe to jack up the engine using the oil pan, right?

In the middle of my up pipe swap...ready to jack the engine...turns out my jack won't fit up there at the motor mount (I have a conventional 2 ton), and I've read that with boards in between you can just jack it at the oil pan/drain plug area.

IS this safe? If not, other ideas?

Much appreciated...
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-11-2007, 02:12 PM Thread Starter
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Another ?, if I do use the pan I assume I'd need to remove both the R and L motor mount bolts. Is this acceptable?

On another note, holy DOO DOO - while taking off the last UP bolt my ratchet self-destructed. Even with PB those things were tight. Oh well, looks like I'll be putting this off till tomorrow....Craftsman here I come...
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-11-2007, 02:14 PM
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i ran into that same problem mid-install...and we ended up putting the jack on solid cement bricks to get some extra height and i think we used a long socket extension on the mount itself. a friend was helping with the install - and he was the one under the car messing with the mount - so i forget exactly hows things were fitted.

that solution ended up working though - and the front end of my car was up on rhino ramps.

04 FXTMT-STi Uppipe & RSB, Prodrive Axleback...
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-11-2007, 02:19 PM
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Myself I'd never jack the pan. I did that once not knowing any bettter with my Mazda 626 and dented it in. Mechanic said I was lucky I didn't snap the oil return inside.
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-11-2007, 03:45 PM
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I researched this question on here a couple of years ago- I think many on this forum have done this. Just place a wide board or two under the pan first. I did this on the UP install, and on another occasion to install motor mounts. No problemo- just disconnect the air intake hose, and loosen the front tranny-to-mount bolts. This will minimize the weight/stress on the pan to boot.

-Len
OBP '05 FXT MT, AP/VF-39, JDM EJ-257 (swap was easier than HGs...and not many more $)
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-11-2007, 05:41 PM
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Don't jack up the oil pan. Since you are working on the passenger side, unbolt one side and jack up at the edge of the engine, only a little bit, the uppipe will fall out.

It doesn't take much effort to jack up the engine, I used the jack came with the car, twisting using my fingers. If your cars is on ramps, use cement blocks or bricks at the bottom.

I guess you have already finished, by the time you read this.
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-11-2007, 09:14 PM
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You can jack the pan if you use a large enough piece of 'board' to spread the load....as for snapping the 'oil return', I think (hope) the mechanic meant the oil pickup!

Simon

98 s-turbo now breaking for spares :icon_cry:, now driving a BMW 320D M-sport :raspberry:
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-11-2007, 10:56 PM
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What year fxt is this?? My up pipe goes right in and out, no jacking up the motor needed.
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-12-2007, 03:45 AM
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if anything i would just remove the header rather than jack the oil pan. even if you use a large board it's not worth the risk of damaging it. header doesn't take long to take off anyways and then it's all clear to take the UP out.
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-12-2007, 04:31 AM
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If you absolutely must jack the motor using the oil pan, I would (like many have stated) ONLY do so if you put a good sized thick piece of wood between the pan and your jack, at least 1" thick and probably about 6"x8" at least just so you spread the load on the pan. Also, BE GENTLE! The last thing you want to do is crush the pan or put a dent in it and mess up the oil pickup inside. Then you just put yourself in a world of hurt. I would try to find another more solid place to jack the motor up by, possibly the exhaust header collector on the passenger side instead.

-Steve

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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-12-2007, 01:39 PM Thread Starter
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Got an spare hour to continue this today...but I'm having trouble jacking the engine.

Could someone post a pic of the engine mount bolt on the turbo side that needs to be removed? It seems obvious - I think it's the 14mm on the crossmember right at the engine mount - but for some reason when I jack the engine it lifts the whole car which of course is no good. Everything was easy on this until this step. I've tried a bunch of different bolts and nothing is working.

I appreciate the time.

Thanks!
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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-12-2007, 03:32 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by greentrees View Post
Got an spare hour to continue this today...but I'm having trouble jacking the engine.

Could someone post a pic of the engine mount bolt on the turbo side that needs to be removed? It seems obvious - I think it's the 14mm on the crossmember right at the engine mount - but for some reason when I jack the engine it lifts the whole car which of course is no good. Everything was easy on this until this step. I've tried a bunch of different bolts and nothing is working.

I appreciate the time.

Thanks!
Anyone????

I have Friday off and I'm gonna try and finish it then. Any additional 411 on my questions would be awesome.
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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-12-2007, 04:45 PM
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personally, I used the exhaust manifold to jack on. The contour of the manifold allowed it to drop nicely into the pocket on my floor jack. You only need to take the passenger side mount loose (one nut on the sub frame) and jack the motor up an inch or two and it will fall out easy.

Scott
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02 WRX VF43 E85 5 sp
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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-12-2007, 04:47 PM
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The nut you need to take loose is on the sub frame below the steering rack. As long as you have the downpipe off, there is nothing else you need to do.

Scott
04 MT FXT <sold
02 WRX VF43 E85 5 sp
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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-12-2007, 05:07 PM
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