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Mishimoto Radiator Fitment

('03-'05) 
6K views 17 replies 8 participants last post by  theorifice 
#1 ·
So my radiator blew out last weekend at 158k. I was running pretty low on coolant so I'm guessing that had contributed to the issue. Decided to replace with a Mishimoto unit.

It seems like the rubber bushings on the radiator mounts are too big for the mounting posts on the top side of the radiator.

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Is this expected? The radiator seems to fit ok but I'm worried that the rad could vibrate and crack from impacting the front end.

Another problem. The plug that Mishimoto provides to too long. This seems to be common knowledge (why don't they fix this?!). I can't get it out now though. Either the threads on the plug stripped out, or the plugs on the radiator stripped.

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Any tips on removing the plug? I'm probably just going to saw off the plug but wanted to survey for ideas. If the rad threads are stripped I'm not sure what I will do yet.

Draining the OEM rad from the petcock valve was an absolute mess and took about 30 minutes. Is this expected?

Thanks
 
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#3 ·
Draining radiators is messy, period. I bought new rubber bushings from the dealer (after 8 years I figured it couldn't hurt), they are supposed to have some play in them though. I wish they would stop with the plugs already and just instruct people to use the nipple that came in it and T into the coolant overflow line, but you're beyond that point. If you take that plug out, chances are the threads will strip. You could try grinding down the plug from the inside, but you'd have to be VERY careful to not allow debris to enter the core.
 
#4 ·
Since many people are just JB welding the nipple shut, I might just JB weld the plug to the radiator. This is super pain. The plug itself was super low quality and really soft. I'm not surprised that the threads stripped off of it.

Is it bad to have any debris in the core? Even if it's small little grindings?
 
#6 ·
So my radiator blew out last weekend at 158k. I was running pretty low on coolant so I'm guessing that had contributed to the issue. Decided to replace with a Mishimoto unit.

It seems like the rubber bushings on the radiator mounts are too big for the mounting posts on the top side of the radiator.

Is this expected? The radiator seems to fit ok but I'm worried that the rad could vibrate and crack from impacting the front end.

Another problem. The plug that Mishimoto provides to too long. This seems to be common knowledge (why don't they fix this?!). I can't get it out now though. Either the threads on the plug stripped out, or the plugs on the radiator stripped.

Any tips on removing the plug? I'm probably just going to saw off the plug but wanted to survey for ideas. If the rad threads are stripped I'm not sure what I will do yet.

Draining the OEM rad from the petcock valve was an absolute mess and took about 30 minutes. Is this expected?

Thanks
I apologize for the issues you are having during the installation of our XT radiator! The primary concern seems to be with the plug for the radiator fill neck. Perhaps an extractor will help remove the plug? If you have not yet sorted out the concern, please contact our warranty department by phone, or at the link below. They should have no problem either helping you mend your existing radiator, or sending out a replacement unit if necessary.

Warranty

Let me know if we can help out with anything else!
 
#8 ·
I just had the same filler neck problem. IF anybody is reading this, DO NOT REMOVE the nipple on the filler neck,as stated on the card with the plug.
Tee it into the OEM overflow hose that goes to the reservoir jug.

If you have already stripped the tapered pipe threads on the plug... use Loctite # 290 (green color, for already assembled threads) to fill the gap and lock the plug into position.
If you use the supplied 19# cap, it will not open/pressure release before the OEM 15# cap,on the small central to the firewall, reservoir.

I blame Mishimoto for putting the O-ring on the plug and leaving people to believe the plug must be tightened all the way to it. They should have stressed that it is a PIPE PLUG with tapered threads!

I was offered a warranty... but who has the time for the turn-around shipping,in the middle of the job?
 
#10 ·
That was exactly my sentiment. I was aware of the lifetime Mishimoto warranty but I needed to get up and running with a working radiator.

The JB welded stub of a plug is working fine. It's just too bad that this problem exists! Previous forum posts seem to indicate that this problem has been around for quite some time. Mishimoto, I think you can do better!
Thanks for the feedback on this guys. I apologize that our radiator installation process is not clearly outlined. It sounds as if we need to put together an installation or instructional guide for customers regarding the plug/nipple.

We can certainly do better, and I will talk to our team about correcting this as soon as possible.

Thanks
-John
 
#9 ·
That was exactly my sentiment. I was aware of the lifetime Mishimoto warranty but I needed to get up and running with a working radiator.

The JB welded stub of a plug is working fine. It's just too bad that this problem exists! Previous forum posts seem to indicate that this problem has been around for quite some time. Mishimoto, I think you can do better!
 
#14 ·
I've recently been having a lot of coolant loss that seems to be coming from the coolant reservoir. Looking back, I'm not sure that plugging the radiator nipple was the best approach. Would plugging the radiator nipple on an XT have anything to do with the cooling system pushing coolant into the overflow tank and overflowing the reservoir? Wouldn't that negate the function of the radiator cap (i.e. providing a over-pressure path to the overflow)

What would my options be in this case? Should I drill and tap into the filler neck plug and attach a nipple?

Note that I have only recently started having issues and have previously driven with the plugged up filler neck setup for over 2 years.
 
#16 ·
It's definitely overflowing the reservoir - that much I can observe. Based on initial reading, there are a few possibilities:

* blocked radiator overflow (which is what I'm asking about) causing coolant to boil and overflow the reservoir
* failing head gasket or stretched headbolts which is allowing exhaust gasses to push out and displace coolant while under boost
 
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