('06-'08) Awful cold start noises - Subaru Forester Owners Forum
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-24-2013, 06:35 AM Thread Starter
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Awful cold start noises

Just a quick post to say -10F weather sucks (with windchill reported to feel like -40F)...

This weeks cold snap means I plug my car in at night so the morning start is pretty normal, but 9 hours parked outside at work resulted in last night when I started it up, it only took about 4 seconds to fire up (good battery) but abnormal loud sounds ranged from;

1st; Screaching metallic whirring sound, my first thought was an oil starved turbo or power steering pump/ac pump.

2nd; kind of a wheezing whistling noise...air seeping in from contracted hoses to the intake?

I let it idle about 5 minutes before even pulling away or going over 1,000rpm, but could imagine the wear and tear going on...
The whole drive home (30 minutes) was done with moderate driving, as the car just didn't feel like it should but after the first couple of minutes driving most of the noises went away.

I run a 5w30 semi-synth at the car doesn't lose much oil at all between changes, but man, it's cold outside!

P

:Banane17:
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-24-2013, 11:49 AM
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Man that's cold. I can tell you, I bought this car new in 2005 and have almost 90K on it now. Any time it gets below 20F, it is not a happy camper when first started. It's been that way the whole time and keeps on trucking. Weird turbo sounds, sometimes belt squeal, the loud valve tapping noise between 2-3K. I take it very easy until it's warmed up. At this point I think it's just the nature of the motor because it's been that way the whole time and now has vf43 and mods and runs fine. I even had the compression checked when having the plugs changed recently and that was tip top.

'05 XT 5 spd VF - SOLD
'13 XT Touring
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-24-2013, 01:35 PM
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I got this the other day as well, when temps were just above 0F. Scared the hell out of me. Haven't started it since (pulled the intake manifold off, trying to solve the dreaded leaky fuel hose)
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-25-2013, 08:09 PM
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it was -25 here this week. it made some nasty sounds during start up but thats inevitable. just make sure you start it a few minets early and let it warm up before driving
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-25-2013, 09:47 PM
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Its been -10 for the past three nights, and when leave work at 10 pm my forester sounds like a diesel till it warms up. boxers don't like the cold.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-03-2013, 06:23 AM
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bringing this back from the dead.

I just bought my 2007 Forester XT not even two weeks ago.
I too have been getting this noise. So far I've pinpointed the noise to the driver side of the engine bay... so it's not the turbo.
it's a "snail" plastic part that has a rubber house going under the intercooler on the driver side.

The noise absolutly sounds like a impreller coming in contact with something.

Anybody know the name of this part and or the catalog number to replace it.
What does it do?

Last edited by Kerby; 04-03-2013 at 06:29 AM.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-03-2013, 08:44 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kerby View Post
bringing this back from the dead.

I just bought my 2007 Forester XT not even two weeks ago.
I too have been getting this noise. So far I've pinpointed the noise to the driver side of the engine bay... so it's not the turbo.
it's a "snail" plastic part that has a rubber house going under the intercooler on the driver side.

The noise absolutly sounds like a impreller coming in contact with something.

Anybody know the name of this part and or the catalog number to replace it.
What does it do?
...Sounds like the Secondary Air Injectors...Pricey to replace if they fail (and worse if get stuck "open", then the car probably runs like crap).
Only turns on at cold start up for 20 seconds or so, dumps more air in so the ECU runs the car richer, which heats up your catalytic converters faster. In my book not much of an environmentally friendly thing, more of a "cheater".

I say do as many have and buy some block off plates, take the whole system out then have a tuner kill the codes so you don't have a check engine light on.

If you wanted to repair (replace) the air injectors, I've heard it's like $800 or more for parts alone (not sure tho, just from memory). Mine still work but they will get the boot pretty soon, when all the other mods go in.

It's not a performance mod, just taking out something that's prone to failure and cleans up the engine bay a bit.

Phil

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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-03-2013, 04:22 PM
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Where can I get the blocking plates?
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