('03-'05) '04 XT MOD list - Missing Anything? - Page 3 - Subaru Forester Owners Forum
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post #31 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-08-2016, 04:16 PM Thread Starter
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Doing a full engine check-up and diagnostic before we start bolting on parts. I also picked up a Grimmspeed PnP intake manifold, TGV deletes and ID Top Feed conversion kit. I may hold off on doing the Tomei UEL Headers, and just go for Perrin EL's after tax return season.

Either way though, I'm dropping my old girl off the day before my ACL surgery. At least while I'm unable to walk, I'll be able to brap around...


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post #32 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-09-2016, 12:42 PM
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Doing a full engine check-up and diagnostic before we start bolting on parts. I also picked up a Grimmspeed PnP intake manifold, TGV deletes and ID Top Feed conversion kit. I may hold off on doing the Tomei UEL Headers, and just go for Perrin EL's after tax return season.

Either way though, I'm dropping my old girl off the day before my ACL surgery. At least while I'm unable to walk, I'll be able to brap around...
I went with the Perrin ELH myself, but did that when moving to a bigger turbo. Ends up being a bit of a pricy mod. The header itself, an uppipe, and then had it all coated at Swaintech. I needed an STI oil cooler for my 07, I think maybe an 04 wont need that. Anyway, not a cheap mod when all said and done. Maybe it makes some power, but it's an incremental gain, nothing like the thrill of going to a bigger turbo. The ELH tames a lot of the resonant drone, which is a big plus.

Good luck with your ACL, if it helps any, that is how I met my wife (ACL physical therapy)

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post #33 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-10-2016, 12:36 PM Thread Starter
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I went with the Perrin ELH myself, but did that when moving to a bigger turbo. Ends up being a bit of a pricy mod. The header itself, an uppipe, and then had it all coated at Swaintech. I needed an STI oil cooler for my 07, I think maybe an 04 wont need that. Anyway, not a cheap mod when all said and done. Maybe it makes some power, but it's an incremental gain, nothing like the thrill of going to a bigger turbo. The ELH tames a lot of the resonant drone, which is a big plus.

Good luck with your ACL, if it helps any, that is how I met my wife (ACL physical therapy)
Haha I don't think I'll get that lucky, all the PT's at my site aren't quite my type... Maybe a nurse at the hospital though?

I'm gonna sell my Tomei UEL & Grimmspeed 3-bolt EWG uppipe and put that money towards the headers. I'll miss the rumble though, so I'll probably drag me feet on installing it all. lol I went with a VF34 for now, but I know I'll want more down the road. That's a whole different rabbit hole though...

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post #34 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-10-2016, 02:53 PM
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Here's what I got after installing & tuning the Perrin header on my VF34 setup...

Some variance due to different days of dyno testing, obviously. New dyno #'s include the cf driveshaft, but also a more restrictive muffler (Sti vs. Maddad with the first dyno).

But 30+ ft/lbs. of torque is totally worth it. More torque during spool as well. :D

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post #35 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-26-2016, 07:06 AM Thread Starter
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So got some bad news after I dropped off the car. Had them do a full diagnostic of the car, look over everything. They found that my Cylinder 2 failed compression & leak down testing by a pretty good margin.

While not the end of the world, I'm holding off on installing all my parts for the time being. I'm debating on saving some money up and pulling the engine, and while it's out to rebuild it.

I'm sure others have run into this before, I'd love for some advice.
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post #36 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-02-2017, 10:53 AM
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^^^ That sucks. A lot of us have been there. If you can afford to have the car off the road for a while and do engine pull & replace yourself, a rebuild is going to be cheaper. Or save time with a new Subaru shortblock for ~$1800... often save money as well compared to a rebuild, since machining costs & labor rates add up very quickly.

A used longblock from another turbo model is another option. But reliability is definitely a gamble... in my case the one I bought had great leakdown results & looked to be well take care of - but only lasted 4 or 5k miles before it blew on me. Had it professionally dyno-tuned as well.
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post #37 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-11-2017, 08:53 AM
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A good open-road tune, which in my opinion is always superior to a dyno tune, should cost $350-450. The tune should be solid after not more than 12 logging runs. Add another three or four runs to fine-tune the tune. All this is assuming that you are working with a tuner through the Internet, and that you thus have the necessary equipment to log the car. Tactrix, laptop, a wideband 02, etc. If you are lucky enough to live close to a tune guru, then he will have all the necessary equipment. A good tune guru will tell you almost immediately if you have mechanical issues that MUST be solved before the car can be tuned. For example, one very common problem is a newly installed aftermarket turbo-back exhaust that somewhere is knocking against something it should not be knocking against. The ECU reads knock, and the tune disintegrates. That's just one example. The car must be 100% mechanically correct in order to tune it properly. For this reason alone, I always recommend that you buy only the best/proven quality parts. If you are within a day's drive (500 miles?) of a tune guru, then it will be worth your time and money to drive the car to him. If nothing else, you can send your ECU to him, and he will install a tune that will get your engine there safely (minimal boost, etc.). Keep in mind that simply being in the car with him (you can drive) will be a valuable lesson in itself.

Re: swapping a turbo. Man, this is not hard, no matter how old the car. Items you need: a new turbo to pipe hose (on the bottom of the turbo); new gaskets. To tune the car, you need a downpipe with an 02 bung near the turbo. If you have an aftermarket downpipe, but it does not have a tuning bung, it is easy to have a bung installed. Any competent exhaust shop can do it. Just be sure they put it on the top, not the bottom (condensation issues).

If you have a stock intake tube, then chances are the portion that fits around the turbo intake is getting mighty fragile. It is too thin, too easy to tear, even if it is in perfect condition. Here's hoping you have already pulled the intake manifold and done TGV deletes, etc. , etc., and installed a new intake tube (Perrin or AVO).
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  Subaru Forester Owners Forum > Technical Forums and Vehicle Assistance > Engine and Exhaust > EJ25 - 2.5L Turbocharged (2004-2013)

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