AX/Track Setups - Page 3

ne0stai2dust · 12-31-2006, 09:15 AM

the ABS drove me nuts at the december autox. especially going into the first 90 degree turn. but with stickier tires will definitely help at the track.

swapping pads at the track doesnt sound like a bad idea at all. pads dont take long to swap anyways. at most like 20 mins. I may have to try that too.

Northwest Tan · 01-04-2007, 02:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ne0stai2dust

I'm not going to be using insane springs on the FXT. they will more likely be Swift STi springs or even JDM STi pinks. I dont want to get to aggressive because my car is still somewhat of a daily driver. so using a front strut bar and h-brace shouldnt kill me. but thats just my honest opinion. what's your input?

about the tires, I was thinking about 40psi up front and 35-38psi in the rear to start. what tire pressures were you using with the MX's?

I used to start the MX's with 37 psi front and rear cold. Check them after each run and bleed if needed. They like the heat and will perform better if they stay warm. At one event, I had the chance to do 3 runs fairly close together; by the third run, my time was fastest in class (ESP) on street tires. Get a co-driver (tire warmer) if you can!

Keep your spare tire in the back; it will help the rear end rotate.

If you have the patience, space out the installation of your parts between events; this will help you determine what effect the recently installed part has on your car.

ne0stai2dust · 01-04-2007, 10:51 PM

thanks for the advice. I appriciate it.

tnedator · 02-13-2007, 06:18 AM

Ok, I have been through Phase I and II of the Evolution school and hope to make my first actual AutoX event in a couple weeks.

2004 FXT (AT

)

Installed:
Cobb UpPipe and Catback
Cobb Stage II flash
FSti Pink Springs
OE Struts
Cobb 25mm Sway Front
Cobb 25mm Sway Rear (set to medium, considering stiff)
SS Braided Brake Lines
Hawk HP+ Pads
OZ Racing Super Turismo 17x7.5" Wheels
Bridgestone Potenza RE960AS Pole Position 235/50/17

To Be Installed:
Kartboy F/R Endlinks
MoBoost Weldment supports (when they arrive)

Considering:
Whiteline Front Strut Tower Brace
Whiteline QD Rear Strut Tower Brace

Since the Evo school was my first experience with AutoX, I think I need to go to several events before I start making too many changes. Right now, the car is probably much better than me as it is, so I am not sure how much I should tinker before I get a little experience.

I had considered switching the rear sway to stiff, becuase I had heard that will make the car more apt to oversteer (it understeers now), but some of what I have read on this forum seem to indicate the opposite.

I think the strut tower braces could only help tighten up the whole wagon, so I am considering doing that sooner than later.

Any comments are suggestions would be appreciated.

Looking forward to my first real event!

ploney · 02-13-2007, 08:48 AM

tnedator:

I do recomend at a minimum the rear strut bar. I have both whitelines right now.
The rear makes the most noticable difference.

A good performance alignment is proably a good idea too.

I recomend, Maximum negative camber in the front with zero toe, and maximum negative camber in the rear with zero toe.

I have recently upgraded all of my rear bushings and can definitely say the the stock OE bushings have allot of play compared to my new stiff ones. You will lose some(dynamically during cornering) of that negative camber in the rear due to this fact.

To achieve the above, you kinda need to do the camber adjustments by hand, yourself. Loosen both strut bolts/nuts, find the max. setting of the camber bolt position in the front. Snug that one just a hair, leave the bottom just snug too. Then have a buddy around or get a strap of some sort. You want to push upa nd inward on the brake rotor, maximizing the amount of negative camber and then snug down one of the bolts to hold it. Do the same for the rear. You really don't need additional camber bolts for the rear until you lower the car. Re-torque the front bolts to 130 ft-lbs and the rears to 150. Might need a bigger torque wrench for the rears.

This technique works well to set the most negative camber. I think scoobymods has a page too.

Pete....

tnedator · 02-13-2007, 11:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ploney

tnedator:

I do recomend at a minimum the rear strut bar. I have both whitelines right now.
The rear makes the most noticable difference.

A good performance alignment is proably a good idea too.

I recomend, Maximum negative camber in the front with zero toe, and maximum negative camber in the rear with zero toe.

I have recently upgraded all of my rear bushings and can definitely say the the stock OE bushings have allot of play compared to my new stiff ones. You will lose some(dynamically during cornering) of that negative camber in the rear due to this fact.

To achieve the above, you kinda need to do the camber adjustments by hand, yourself. Loosen both strut bolts/nuts, find the max. setting of the camber bolt position in the front. Snug that one just a hair, leave the bottom just snug too. Then have a buddy around or get a strap of some sort. You want to push upa nd inward on the brake rotor, maximizing the amount of negative camber and then snug down one of the bolts to hold it. Do the same for the rear. You really don't need additional camber bolts for the rear until you lower the car. Re-torque the front bolts to 130 ft-lbs and the rears to 150. Might need a bigger torque wrench for the rears.

This technique works well to set the most negative camber. I think scoobymods has a page too.

Pete....

Question about camber/alignment. If I make those changes by hand to the alignment, what happens in street driving? Will it wear the tires quicker? Will it pull or create other problems when daily driving?

Did the front Whiteline fit with no problems? Did you have to reroute the AC line? Another problem with the 4EAT FXT is that I am not sure if the front strut brace will block access to the AT dip stick (you have to reach behind and below the intercooler to get to it. I think the quick disconnect kit could be added to it, so that is probably a possibility.

Is this the correct part number for the rear? KSB590Q? If so, can you recommend someplace online to buy it? Also, what is the part number for the front brace?

ploney · 02-13-2007, 11:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tnedator

Question about camber/alignment. If I make those changes by hand to the alignment, what happens in street driving? Will it wear the tires quicker? Will it pull or create other problems when daily driving?

Did the front Whiteline fit with no problems? Did you have to reroute the AC line? Another problem with the 4EAT FXT is that I am not sure if the front strut brace will block access to the AT dip stick (you have to reach behind and below the intercooler to get to it. I think the quick disconnect kit could be added to it, so that is probably a possibility.

Is this the correct part number for the rear? KSB590Q? If so, can you recommend someplace online to buy it? Also, what is the part number for the front brace?

Toe in or out is what eats tires. Negative camber does not. I run about -2.5 on my fronts right now, daily.

I did have to manipulate the AC line some to get the front strut bar to fit. I also rotated the angle of the bar to minimize the amount of pressure against the fitting in the center of the AC line. I removed the cap of the fitting too. I can take pictures later for you.

I'll need to look up the part numbers. I bought the bars from Subie Gal's old business before she opened up her current place. No sugguestions at this point. Locally, we have www.renickmotorsports.com . They are reputable whiteline source. Call them for part numbers possibly.

Stay tuned on the pics...

Pete...

ne0stai2dust · 02-13-2007, 11:59 AM

edit bump. :)

tnedator · 02-13-2007, 06:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ploney

Toe in or out is what eats tires. Negative camber does not. I run about -2.5 on my fronts right now, daily.

I did have to manipulate the AC line some to get the front strut bar to fit. I also rotated the angle of the bar to minimize the amount of pressure against the fitting in the center of the AC line. I removed the cap of the fitting too. I can take pictures later for you.

I'll need to look up the part numbers. I bought the bars from Subie Gal's old business before she opened up her current place. No sugguestions at this point. Locally, we have www.renickmotorsports.com . They are reputable whiteline source. Call them for part numbers possibly.

Stay tuned on the pics...

Pete...

There is another active thread about the rear strut brace and it confirmed what I thought was the correct rear brace KSB590Q. Quick Release Rear Tower Strut Bar

I have ordered one. I was having a hard time finding anyplace with one listed on their sites. According to the Whiteline catalog, either KSB554 or KSB599 will fit and it says that the second one will fit large TMIC (intercooler?). Which of those would require the least rerouting of the airconditioning lines, OR would a cusco or another brand up front fit better? Whichever one it is, I think I will need a quick release to get to the transmission fluid dip stick.

csparks · 02-15-2007, 06:11 PM

I'm no newbie when it comes to autox - and ran my 02 WRX for the 5 years I owned it in STX exclusively. Reading thru everyone's set ups is really fun - lots of good ideas and advice for the Forester. Keep it up everyone!

I *might* run the FXT and here's the setup that I have now and the additions I plan to make autox or no.

SUSPENSION
- v7 STi Struts
- Swift WRX springs
- Perrin front & rear adjustable swaybars (coming next)

WHEELS & TIRES
- wheels TBD
- Falken Azenis RT-615's

No power mods for this one for now. See what the suspension does and go from there. I started with power mods too soon on the WRX before sorting the suspension... let's not make the same mistakes twice.

tnedator · 02-15-2007, 07:23 PM

I have the Cobb rear sway set to the middle hole/medium setting. Should I change it to the firmest setting? Is that the hole closest to the end, or furthest away from the end?

Gump · 02-15-2007, 08:22 PM

2002 GT SF5 Forester

Suspension/Wheels:

Tein Flex coilovers with Pillow ball mounts and 32 setting dampening
EDFC (set at 0 for track and 12 for daily commuting)
STI Front alloy control Arms with Whiteline full replacement bushings and 1 Degree positive Castor Mod
Whiteline rear adjustable Lateral Links
H Brace
Cusco Front and rear Strut Braces
Whiteline 22mm Front Swaybar with Whiteline Spherical endlinks
Whiteline 24mm adjustable rear swaybar set at 27mm with Noltec links
Whiteline rear control arms
Castor adjustable bushings
ECS Adjustable strut tops with maximum castor setting
Falken Azeni RT615's (245/40/18) all round
Whiteline diff lock bolt
Kartboy bushing kit
Spec C Quickrack
Noltec Steering rack bushes
HP Racing rims

Current settings:

Front: -2.5 Camber with 6 degrees of positive castor
Rear: -2.0 camber

BRAKING

Brembo brake package with Ferodo DS2500 brake pads, DBA5000 slotted rotors on the front and DBA4000 slotted rotors on the rear
Brembo brake fluid (dot 6)
Brake support bracket.
Goodrich Braided SS lines
Goodrich braided clutch line

ENGINE/DRIVELINE

2.5 with CP's, Pauter Rods, ARP head studs
V6 Ported and Polished heads and Cams with Jun springs and retainers
800cc SARD top feed injectors
MRT Fuel Rails
Apexi Pod Filter
Perrin Intake
Rigoli FMIC
Process West Oil Cooler
Process West trans cooler
Hyperflow oil catch can
Turbosmart full plumbback BOV
PWR 40mm replacement and upgraded radiator
Autronic SM4 ECU with 3 port boost solenoid (2 boost settings, 16psi and 19psi)
GT3040 Turbo with Pro-gate wastegate
3" Hi-Tech Exhaust.
6sp STI GB with Full STI running gear (running STI HD clutch)
R180 Spec C Plated Rear Diff

Car makes approx. 380whp @ 19psi and runs in the current WRX club supersprint series.

cheers,

ploney · 02-15-2007, 08:31 PM

Where RU located GuHUMP??

Gump · 02-15-2007, 09:42 PM

Located in Australia.

We have some nicely modified Subies down under.

tnedator · 02-16-2007, 04:47 PM

Are you guys with the Falken ST615s using them on the street for daily driving? Or, do you drive to the AutoX on them? Or, do you put them on at the AutoX?

12-31-2006, 09:15 AM	#31 (permalink)
ne0stai2dust Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: 909/951MM Posts: 1,646 Gallery: 0 iTrader: 4 / 100%	the ABS drove me nuts at the december autox. especially going into the first 90 degree turn. but with stickier tires will definitely help at the track. swapping pads at the track doesnt sound like a bad idea at all. pads dont take long to swap anyways. at most like 20 mins. I may have to try that too. __________________ What's in your wagon?

01-04-2007, 10:51 PM	#33 (permalink)
ne0stai2dust Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: 909/951MM Posts: 1,646 Gallery: 0 iTrader: 4 / 100%	thanks for the advice. I appriciate it. __________________ What's in your wagon?

02-13-2007, 08:48 AM	#35 (permalink)
ploney Contributing Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Redondo Beach, CA Posts: 678 Gallery: 0 iTrader: 6 / 100%	tnedator: I do recomend at a minimum the rear strut bar. I have both whitelines right now. The rear makes the most noticable difference. A good performance alignment is proably a good idea too. I recomend, Maximum negative camber in the front with zero toe, and maximum negative camber in the rear with zero toe. I have recently upgraded all of my rear bushings and can definitely say the the stock OE bushings have allot of play compared to my new stiff ones. You will lose some(dynamically during cornering) of that negative camber in the rear due to this fact. To achieve the above, you kinda need to do the camber adjustments by hand, yourself. Loosen both strut bolts/nuts, find the max. setting of the camber bolt position in the front. Snug that one just a hair, leave the bottom just snug too. Then have a buddy around or get a strap of some sort. You want to push upa nd inward on the brake rotor, maximizing the amount of negative camber and then snug down one of the bolts to hold it. Do the same for the rear. You really don't need additional camber bolts for the rear until you lower the car. Re-torque the front bolts to 130 ft-lbs and the rears to 150. Might need a bigger torque wrench for the rears. This technique works well to set the most negative camber. I think scoobymods has a page too. Pete.... __________________ Former SF.org junkie...... Visits for the good company though...

02-13-2007, 11:59 AM	#38 (permalink)
ne0stai2dust Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: 909/951MM Posts: 1,646 Gallery: 0 iTrader: 4 / 100%	edit bump. :) __________________ What's in your wagon?

02-15-2007, 06:11 PM	#40 (permalink)
csparks Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: chicago-land Posts: 89 Gallery: 0 iTrader: 0 / 0%	Lots of good advice! I'm no newbie when it comes to autox - and ran my 02 WRX for the 5 years I owned it in STX exclusively. Reading thru everyone's set ups is really fun - lots of good ideas and advice for the Forester. Keep it up everyone! I might run the FXT and here's the setup that I have now and the additions I plan to make autox or no. SUSPENSION - v7 STi Struts - Swift WRX springs - Perrin front & rear adjustable swaybars (coming next) WHEELS & TIRES - wheels TBD - Falken Azenis RT-615's No power mods for this one for now. See what the suspension does and go from there. I started with power mods too soon on the WRX before sorting the suspension... let's not make the same mistakes twice. __________________ csparks ex-07 forester xt sports

02-13-2007, 06:18 AM	#34 (permalink)
tnedator Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: AR Posts: 116 Gallery: 0 iTrader: 0 / 0%	Ok, I have been through Phase I and II of the Evolution school and hope to make my first actual AutoX event in a couple weeks. 2004 FXT (AT ) Installed: Cobb UpPipe and Catback Cobb Stage II flash FSti Pink Springs OE Struts Cobb 25mm Sway Front Cobb 25mm Sway Rear (set to medium, considering stiff) SS Braided Brake Lines Hawk HP+ Pads OZ Racing Super Turismo 17x7.5" Wheels Bridgestone Potenza RE960AS Pole Position 235/50/17 To Be Installed: Kartboy F/R Endlinks MoBoost Weldment supports (when they arrive) Considering: Whiteline Front Strut Tower Brace Whiteline QD Rear Strut Tower Brace Since the Evo school was my first experience with AutoX, I think I need to go to several events before I start making too many changes. Right now, the car is probably much better than me as it is, so I am not sure how much I should tinker before I get a little experience. I had considered switching the rear sway to stiff, becuase I had heard that will make the car more apt to oversteer (it understeers now), but some of what I have read on this forum seem to indicate the opposite. I think the strut tower braces could only help tighten up the whole wagon, so I am considering doing that sooner than later. Any comments are suggestions would be appreciated. Looking forward to my first real event!

02-15-2007, 07:23 PM	#41 (permalink)
tnedator Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: AR Posts: 116 Gallery: 0 iTrader: 0 / 0%	I have the Cobb rear sway set to the middle hole/medium setting. Should I change it to the firmest setting? Is that the hole closest to the end, or furthest away from the end?

02-15-2007, 08:22 PM	#42 (permalink)
Gump Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 38 Gallery: 0 iTrader: 0 / 0%	2002 GT SF5 Forester Suspension/Wheels: Tein Flex coilovers with Pillow ball mounts and 32 setting dampening EDFC (set at 0 for track and 12 for daily commuting) STI Front alloy control Arms with Whiteline full replacement bushings and 1 Degree positive Castor Mod Whiteline rear adjustable Lateral Links H Brace Cusco Front and rear Strut Braces Whiteline 22mm Front Swaybar with Whiteline Spherical endlinks Whiteline 24mm adjustable rear swaybar set at 27mm with Noltec links Whiteline rear control arms Castor adjustable bushings ECS Adjustable strut tops with maximum castor setting Falken Azeni RT615's (245/40/18) all round Whiteline diff lock bolt Kartboy bushing kit Spec C Quickrack Noltec Steering rack bushes HP Racing rims Current settings: Front: -2.5 Camber with 6 degrees of positive castor Rear: -2.0 camber BRAKING Brembo brake package with Ferodo DS2500 brake pads, DBA5000 slotted rotors on the front and DBA4000 slotted rotors on the rear Brembo brake fluid (dot 6) Brake support bracket. Goodrich Braided SS lines Goodrich braided clutch line ENGINE/DRIVELINE 2.5 with CP's, Pauter Rods, ARP head studs V6 Ported and Polished heads and Cams with Jun springs and retainers 800cc SARD top feed injectors MRT Fuel Rails Apexi Pod Filter Perrin Intake Rigoli FMIC Process West Oil Cooler Process West trans cooler Hyperflow oil catch can Turbosmart full plumbback BOV PWR 40mm replacement and upgraded radiator Autronic SM4 ECU with 3 port boost solenoid (2 boost settings, 16psi and 19psi) GT3040 Turbo with Pro-gate wastegate 3" Hi-Tech Exhaust. 6sp STI GB with Full STI running gear (running STI HD clutch) R180 Spec C Plated Rear Diff Car makes approx. 380whp @ 19psi and runs in the current WRX club supersprint series. cheers, Last edited by Gump : 02-15-2007 at 08:29 PM.

02-15-2007, 08:31 PM	#43 (permalink)
ploney Contributing Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Redondo Beach, CA Posts: 678 Gallery: 0 iTrader: 6 / 100%	Where RU located GuHUMP?? __________________ Former SF.org junkie...... Visits for the good company though...

02-15-2007, 09:42 PM	#44 (permalink)
Gump Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 38 Gallery: 0 iTrader: 0 / 0%	Located in Australia. We have some nicely modified Subies down under.

02-16-2007, 04:47 PM	#45 (permalink)
tnedator Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: AR Posts: 116 Gallery: 0 iTrader: 0 / 0%	Are you guys with the Falken ST615s using them on the street for daily driving? Or, do you drive to the AutoX on them? Or, do you put them on at the AutoX?

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