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Old 02-21-2006, 11:19 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Bump. Updated my original post.
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Old 03-05-2006, 07:02 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Updated my setup post in GREEN. :drive:
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Old 03-05-2006, 07:07 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Ploney,
How did the spring swap turn out? Aren't the front and rear springs on the Megans different lengths? I have heard of suby owners running a higher spring rate in the rear and getting positive results.

Do you have pics of the STi seats and the harnesses?
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Old 03-05-2006, 08:01 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Northwest Tan
Ploney,
How did the spring swap turn out? Aren't the front and rear springs on the Megans different lengths? I have heard of suby owners running a higher spring rate in the rear and getting positive results.

Do you have pics of the STi seats and the harnesses?
Swap is not done yet. Was not aware of the different lengths front to rear. That could change my plans a bit :oops:

Check the Interior forum thread for seat pictures. Search on "more grip" No pictures of the harness install, yet, stay tuned.
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Old 04-04-2006, 08:06 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Default Front and Rear Spring Rates...On Megan Racing CO's

I did my swap. I now have Front at 7K, rear at 8K.
I am getting very close to a podium in my class now.
Only .7 out of first with street tires versus R comps. Not bad.

See my other thread for actual race results.

I can control the rear very well now when I want to trail brake into a 90 degree corner.
I also went to the STI rear bar instead of the whiteline 24 mm.
This combination feels very tossable and predictable. Some of my teammates said I looked very good on course.
No pictures at this point though.:tempertantrum Running in the morning is bad for photos.
Next time.
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Old 04-24-2006, 12:08 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Just added a COBB FSB today. hopefully it'll be a big improvement. Heading up my first autox on may 13th.
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Old 10-06-2006, 10:56 AM   #22 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subarhue View Post
18x7.5 5zigen fno1-rc wheels...18's that weigh 17lbs
18.5 TO BE EXACT
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Old 10-08-2006, 11:24 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by autoxer View Post
Just added a COBB FSB today. hopefully it'll be a big improvement. Heading up my first autox on may 13th.
How did the FSB do for you? In my case, turn-in was incredible but at the cost of increased push when trying to accelerate through/out of corners. So I shaved time in the slaloms but picked it back up through sweepers. I guess if you know what the course is like, you can run the appropriate FSB.

I no longer Auto-X, I just thought this information should be shared.
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Old 10-12-2006, 01:38 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Some weekend testing and tuning is in order.
Sat. is a practice Auto-X, Sun, and Championship event.
BTW, 4 points out of first place in ESP Cal Club Region!!

Just upgraded, last night, my front Springs from 7K(380 lb) to 9.5K(525 lb).

So far, a few on/off ramps feel incedible on my Falken 615's.
Seems like endless front end grip.
Now hopefully with the 8K springs in the rear I can still get some mid-corner rotation still.
I will be evaluating going to a lesser front bar as well.
I'll bring my OE 20mm bar with me to the practice on Sat. just in case.
Currently, I have a Cobb FSB, 25mm hollow.
Which might be For Sale if I end up changing it to stock.

Pray for no rain for me on Sat. Forecast is looking bad.

Stay tuned.. no pun intended........
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Old 10-13-2006, 04:02 PM   #25 (permalink)
 
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Good update Plooney. More spring, less bar is understandable. Still on Rs?

I've solo'd three times (STU) and ran two DE's since finishing the "no drop" Megan Racing CO's and getting a good alignment. I'm giving up some CG but the ride is tight and in control. I've way to much front bar (strano) and might be in the market for a Cobb FSB to match my Cobb RSB on stiff. I find the front tire wheelspin on leaving a corner a bummer, not much I can do right??? I think less FSB would help??? This weekend is solo in the Texas Motor Speedway infield, should rain hard all day. I might disconnect my FSB just to keep it between the cones

I'll finish out the solo season dialing in. I feel I'm not to far off but only time will tell.

Oh. At Texas World Speedway DE I cooked my Falken 615's bad. Sad to see the "new this year" set drip off rubber after the session. First 15 minutes were great then it was slippy city and I came right in. My old style azenies never did turn to mush like this.
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Old 10-13-2006, 04:14 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wagn View Post
Good update Plooney. More spring, less bar is understandable. Still on Rs?

I've solo'd three times (STU) and ran two DE's since finishing the "no drop" Megan Racing CO's and getting a good alignment. I'm giving up some CG but the ride is tight and in control. I've way to much front bar (strano) and might be in the market for a Cobb FSB to match my Cobb RSB on stiff. I find the front tire wheelspin on leaving a corner a bummer, not much I can do right??? I think less FSB would help??? This weekend is solo in the Texas Motor Speedway infield, should rain hard all day. I might disconnect my FSB just to keep it between the cones

I'll finish out the solo season dialing in. I feel I'm not to far off but only time will tell.

Oh. At Texas World Speedway DE I cooked my Falken 615's bad. Sad to see the "new this year" set drip off rubber after the session. First 15 minutes were great then it was slippy city and I came right in. My old style azenies never did turn to mush like this.
ESP = Kumho 710's for me. Wheel spin is a pain. I am hoping less lean with the heavier front springs will equal less spinnage. Lowering the CG will help with wheel spin. We can't go too low due to bad geometry though. I am real close to too low. We'll see. You should buy some Toyo RA1's for track days. www.bimmerworld.com sells them used after every World Speed Challenge event for $50/tire !! You just need to buy them in advance of them being available and wait. I Auto-X'd a set of them for 5 months or so and sold them(with some tread/grooves left) for $90 still They are ok for Auto-X in the summer months, geat for the track anytime.

Oh Yeah, the tires(bimmerworld) are 235-40-17's a little smaller than stock. You'll loose a little top end speed, but they do lower the car about 1/4 inch.
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Old 12-30-2006, 12:52 PM   #27 (permalink)
 
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2004 FXT 5MT
Class: Street Modified

Engine -
Cobb Stage 2 reflash
Injen TBE
Injen up-pipe
Injen CAI
USDM STi TMIC

Suspension/Brakes-
BC Racing 8k/6k coilovers
Whiteline rear strut bar
Stock front and rear rotors
Porterfield R4-S front pads
Hawk HPS pads (rear only)
Technafit Stainless Steel brake lines
ATE Superblue Dot4 fluid
STi 20mm rear sway bar
Mo_Boost LLWS

Wheels -
5Zigen FN01RC 17x8 wrapped in 245/45/17 Falken Azenis RT615's

Interior-
CG lock w/ stock seats
Megan Racing boost gauge
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Old 12-30-2006, 10:18 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ne0stai2dust View Post

I just added the stainless steel brake lines which helps alot but I'll have to add better pads up front and remember to remove the ABS fuse next time I autox.
I've found that the ABS helps if you are a late braking driver, especially if you like to brake through the first third of the turn.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ne0stai2dust View Post
I plan to add (over the course of next year; being a college student sucks):
Hawk HPS pads up front
22mm solid swaybar (cusco or perrin)
Mo_Boost LLWS (when the next batch is ready)
wheels
kuhmo MX in a 225-235/40-45/17 tire
Carbing front strut bar
H-brace
Whiteline rear subframe locking bolts
All the bushings I can replace
Group-N motor/trans/pitch mounts
stiffer springs
and lots of playing with my alignment at school
Adding the braces in front might shift your forester's handling toward the understeer side.

The MX's were pretty good to me at autox. Having a co-driver will help keep their temp (and grip) higher than if you drive alone. 41 psi hot is a good pressure to start; I lost grip if I let the pressure get too high.
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Old 12-31-2006, 01:17 AM   #29 (permalink)
 
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I'm not going to be using insane springs on the FXT. they will more likely be Swift STi springs or even JDM STi pinks. I dont want to get to aggressive because my car is still somewhat of a daily driver. so using a front strut bar and h-brace shouldnt kill me. but thats just my honest opinion. what's your input?

about the tires, I was thinking about 40psi up front and 35-38psi in the rear to start. what tire pressures were you using with the MX's?
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Old 12-31-2006, 08:38 AM   #30 (permalink)
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When you get tires with better traction you will notice that the abs is then again usable. I started Auto-xing on Falken ST115s. I had to pull the ABS fuse with them. Once I went to Falken 615's all was better, fuse stayed in.

Tire traction in braking is a big factor on the effeciency of the ABS system.
BTW, with R compound Kumho 710's, I data logged a 1.06 G braking event at the end of a course once. That's with Hawk HPS pads, SS lines, and OE everything else. Not bad for a pretty much stock setup.
I saw that Wagn likes to swap his front pads for track and auto-x days to Hawk HP+ pads. Great idea. I think I will steal that one :)
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