Ah the joys of frameless doors. This is the second time I've dealt with a torn window gusset and figured that I'd take pictures and do another little writeup on the issue.
-A few notes, this is for a 2005 Forester XT with the premium sound system. You may have blank covers where my pictures show a tweeter grill. I also have dynamat on my doors, so don't expect to see all of the shiny silver stuff on your doors. (It was pretty haphazardly installed, so please excuse that
The window gussets are the triangle shaped pieces of rubber that the side-view mirrors mount to. Because of the design they have a tendency to tear at the very top, which can lead to some very annoying whistling. It hasn't been a problem for me in the warm weather, but when it gets cold the noise starts right back up.
You can see the rip in this picture
The gussets cost about $65 each, and the part numbers are:
Drivers Side: 61158SA010
Passenger Side: 61158SA000
The tools required are:
Flat Head Screwdriver
Phillips Head Screwdriver
Trim Puller (You can get by without this, I don't use it in the writeup, but it's a good tool for removing trim pieces)
Here is what the drivers side gusset looks like when it's not in the car:
Replacing them is a fairly straight forward process.
1 - Remove the door panel & trim
2 - remove the mirror
3 - remove the gusset
4 - reassemble
To begin, roll the window glass all of the way down. It will make the process much easier and you'll be less likely to hit it with a tool. First you need to remove the door panel. There are two things you must remove first in order to get it to come off. One is the assembly that has your window/lock switches in it, and the other is the trim around the door handle.
Using a flat head screwdriver lift up the little flap shown here:
Then remove the screw underneath
Using a flat head screwdriver, cats paw, trim puller, etc... gently lift up the assembly at the back, then the middle, then the front. A little futzing should make it come right out.
Next you need to disconnect the two wire harnesses. These pictures are for a drivers side door, but the passenger side is quite similar. The larger of the two harnesses is easiest to get out using something to push the tab in. The picture didn't come out well, but you get the idea
BE CAREFUL REMOVING THIS CONNECTOR. IF YOU PULL TOO HARD ON THE WIRES YOU CAN CAUSE IT TO COME APART AND YOU'LL HAVE TO PUT THE WIRES BACK INTO THE CONNECTOR.
Here are two threads to help if this happens to you. The first one references USDM and the Australian versions of the Forester.
door lock and window control wiring question
Here is another with some good pictures
help needed... 06FXT door wires
Here is a picture of the harnesses for the passenger side:
Now it's time to remove the trim around the door handle. This takes some finesse, but with some kind of pry tool gently pry it out until the clips begin to release. You can see the location of all the clips in the second picture here. (Some pictures were staged, so that's why it may look out of order)
Before you can remove the door panel itself there's one more thing to take off. My car has tweeters installed, but others may just have blank plastic covers. It doesn't matter either way because they both attach the same.
Get a hold of the tweeter cover and start wiggling it out. There are three plastic pieces that are just shoved into holes in the plastic tweeter bracket (they may go directly into the rubber gusset on non-tweeter equipped cars, not sure on that), and they should come out without much hassle.
(Another note; I have aftermarket tweeters installed (aka glued) in place of the stock ones. Don't worry if yours don't look the same)
With that removed it's time to take off the door panel. There are a whole bunch of clips holding the panel onto the door, so you pretty much have to pick a place to begin and start popping the clips out by pulling on the plastic. A cats paw/trim puller would probably be quite helpful here, I've just always done it with my hands though. This picture shows where I like to start because there's an indent in the sheet metal and it's easy to get a grip on the panel.
Once you have the clips loose from the door you simply slide the plastic panel straight up to get it unhooked from the top edge of the door. Again this will take a little bit of wiggling, but it should come off nicely. If it's not then you may still have a clip attached. Just take your time and it will come off.
Now that the panel is removed remove the tweeter bracket from the gusset. This plastic piece is just shoved into three holes in the bracket, so it should pull straight out.