Has anyone removed the Center Assembly Panel (the trim panel around the stereo/air vents/AC controls) on a model w/ Starlink?
I need to pull it off to stash my toll transponder, and also to install the interior lighting kit. The only instructions available are for 2014/2015s with the old systems. I doubt there are many/any differences, but I'd rather ask than find out midway through...
You are presumably the first person needing to do this on the new infotainment system with a Forester.
My suggestion would be to join the Outback forum ( Subaru Outback - Subaru Outback Forums ) and ask them. Since they have had the system for a year longer than we have, they might have an answer.
You could also buy the 2016 Service Manual and see how to in that.
Pull out top air vents (gently, trim tool in the top corners). There are two bolts behind them to remove.
Unclip the two silver bits at the bottom of the console. Pull from the bottom.
Now there are two more bolts. The manual says remove complete glove box, plus all the trim and airbag beneath the steering column. But I didn't need to- pop the glovebox (like for a cabin filter change) and remove the narrow trim between the column and centre console. On either side- quite a way in- you'll see another bolt. Remove them.
here's one of them, the l/h, dead centre in the pic
Now the unit (and heater controls, they come out together) are just clipped in round their perimeter, trim tool in and pull gently!
you'll then be left with this hole to fill, and the two top mountings are obvious in this shot
Pull out top air vents (gently, trim tool in the top corners). There are two bolts behind them to remove.
Unclip the two silver bits at the bottom of the console. Pull from the bottom.
Now there are two more bolts. The manual says remove complete glove box, plus all the trim and airbag beneath the steering column. But I didn't need to- pop the glovebox (like for a cabin filter change) and remove the narrow trim between the column and centre console. On either side- quite a way in- you'll see another bolt. Remove them.
here's one of them, the l/h, dead centre in the pic
Now the unit (and heater controls, they come out together) are just clipped in round their perimeter, trim tool in and pull gently!
you'll then be left with this hole to fill, and the two top mountings are obvious in this shot
Your attachment pdf references links for removal of the "cover assembly", "glove box", and "center grille assembly"....could you also provide those PDFs??????? I'd be so thankful!
Well, your instructions were spot on. Everything came off easily enough, though for anyone else attempting this, I found it much easier to re-install the screws on either side of the Starlink unit after I removed the glove box trim panel and the knee airbag cover (NOT the airbag itself). Sadly, a screw either didn't make it into my screw cup, or bounced out as I'm a screw short on the glove box trim panel. I'll replace it one of these days, but the trim is very snug, and won't rattle as-is.
Glove box is easy-peazy. Suggestion: use no tools, only soft fleshy fingers, because apparently our glove boxes are made of some sort of butter material and scratch and deform spontaneously.
Empty box.
On the right side of the glovebox you'll see a dampening rod come down and connect to the box itself. Squeeze the end of the knob that the damper is connected to and disconnect the rod from the glove box.
The back of the glove box just has plastic pieces that stick out and keep the box in the space. reach back on both sides (or one at a time) and work loose the tabs so that you can pull the box down and then forward to unclip the bottom front of the box where it swivels.
Reverse to replace.
It's actually in your owner's manual (the cabin filter is back there).
Wow, that Head Unit was tough to get out. The last two bolts are really hard to get at. In addition, the cable/harness lengths attached to the head unit barely give you enough give to pull the head unit out far enough to remove. What a PITA....but then again, this is my first Car Audio install so I guess this is standard for stock wiring. Ugh. Luckily, I'm keeping the stock Head Unit since it is big touchscreen and seems to function/fit nicely.....so I only had to pull it out enough to reach the Audio harness stuff.
I just got mine last week and wanted to put in the Panavise phone mount. I have been a professional installer for about 15 years and that was a PITA. I never would have figured it out without that link, thank you very much.
I installed my panavise mount the other day. I agree, PITA. And I dropped one of the bolts down in the center console.:crying::evilatyou: I will get it later, as I will be pulling the stereo again to install Footwell lights and controller from DiodeDynamics. I got the full set so I have to run cables to the rear in the console, so when it gets pulled I'll get that bolt. Then they will get put back after that.
I'm looking to remove the headunit this week, to install a harness for my amp. This thread is great.
I have a question please, regarding the trim items needing removal on the drivers side of the center stack. Which one of these pieces did you remove, the blue arrow or the red arrow?
Also, another entirely different approach...has anyone tried getting at the front speaker signals where they enter the door - this is the blue circle in my picture. I was able to pop that black plastic cowl cover off easy and expose the bundle of wires heading into the door (same on right side). I think this could be an easier approach if you only need an audio signal for a sub, or just wanted to amp only the front speakers. Keep in mind the tweeters would not be amp'd, they split off the wires earlier, but assuming you got the amp level correct, the tweets would be fine powering off the headunit while the door speakers are amp'd. just another approach that could be simpler depending on your needs to hack into an audio signal.
I removed both pieces. The blue arrow is required, red arrow gave me more access. Just be careful - that's the knee airbag. The trim panel pops right off, but behind it is the airbag assembly.
I only removed the blue arrow piece. The Red Arrow seemed cumbersome to remove and had many warnings related to it. And about the blue circle area.....I don't see why you couldn't do it that way. Just make sure you know which wires are which....it was confusing.
Also, did you have to unclip any HVAC cables, to get the assembly out far enough to get to the rear audio harnesses?
(This would be for manual HVAC controls, not the case if you have the auto climate controls.)
Holy ***** that was a PITA. I've removed head units in 4 vehicles before and this was the worst. It had to be done though.
Couple of observations to add to the thread:
* This dash shows everything. I put blue painting tape on the dash along the edge I'm prying with the trim tool, in case the tool slips. I also put blue tape on the bezel of the HU and HVAC controls, and pretty much anywhere else that could have contact with somewhere and get scratched.
* The two side bolts, wow. I was able to get them both out and back in, but it took time. I don't have a magnetized socket, so I placed some duct tape around the end of the socket, to make it fit tighter and more sticky, so the bolt won't drop out.
* I agree with someone about the clearance when pulling out the stack, I couldn't really even get my hand behind the HU to pull out plugs. It took me a long time just to get the 10 pin audio plug out of the HU and plug in my bypass harness.
Thanks to Stupifier, Canadian_XT and all for blazing the path here!
This is a great thread for anyone looking to remove the new 16+ headunit, thanks to all that have contributed.
I will be looking to remove mine over the weekend to install a line out converter. Does anyone happen to recall which harness connects the front speakers or what color the wires for the front speakers are? I figure i'd ask before I start pulling door panels off to figure it out.
Does anyone happen to recall which harness connects the front speakers or what color the wires for the front speakers are? I figure i'd ask before I start pulling door panels off to figure it out.
EJH thanks for the link, this should make things very simple!
You have insufficient privileges to reply here.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Subaru Forester Owners Forum
2.5M posts
188.6K members
Since 2006
We’re the best Subaru Forester Owners Forum to talk about the best years of the Subaru Forester, modifications and reliability history of the Subaru Forester.