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#46 (permalink) |
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Same trouble here with our 2001 Forester, Clock went intermittent as
temp dropped this winter. The clock was still keeping time, just that the segments weren't staying lighted. As described, the resistor (510 ohm I presume) had some bad joints. In my case, the end under the display was the worst case. Also noticed the resistor was slightly raised above the surface. I think that's a good sign the automated place and solder flow at the assembly plant has a slight variation causing the consistent quality issue among many owners. No doubt a machine calibation issue. Without a schematic, I definitely would never have found this one. Thanks to your advice, it was fixed in 15 minutes. Dollars saved and appreciated! |
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#48 (permalink) |
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I resoldered the 510 chip with no results. After ten minutes or so it came back to life! Then it quit, and periodically returns. I guess the internal gremlins are going to tell me the time only when THEY feel it's important. My display has the burnt mark on it, too.
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#49 (permalink) |
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There is no excuse for not fixing this yourself. Not to demean anyone for just replacing the whole clock, but why do that when the fix job is so easy!
Look at the absolutely horrible solder beads I did on mine(since I didn't have a fine tip for my iron) and it worked just fine! The bad resistor: ![]() The main bead: ![]() Both beads re-soldered: ![]() They look nasty but it works! We'll see if it lasts. ![]() === If you don't think the resistor is the problem, or you tried to solder it with no results, be sure to inspect all connections very careully. I thought my resistors looked fine at first until I looked at them under a magnifying lense with bright light. It also to a couple of tries to get the solder to fill the gap. |
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#50 (permalink) |
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#8 Post ho
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Check all of the resistor's, because most of mine seemed to share the same trend in the poor quality. Even if it looks like there is a connection you still might want to re-solder it! Try using more solder material too, this maybe also help :)
__________________
99 AT- wrx goodies Subiegal Gauge Pod |
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#52 (permalink) |
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My overhead clock has been out of service for quite some time now ('98 forester). Until I found this thread I thought it would be a case of shelling out the cash for the new clock. This weekend I popped it out and resoldered the bad joints (resistor 510 and 300) and now it works like a charm!!
Thanks for the great post! |
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#55 (permalink) |
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My clock has been broken for about 1.5 years, then I saw this thread. Popped it out, and #510 had a crack in the solder, just like in your photo. 5 minutes with the soldering iron, and it's fixed!
Thumbs up for a great, helpful writeup. And for those of you who are slightly hesitant to go ripping apart your electronics and work with molten solder, I offer you this: 1. The clock is already broken. If it's working intermittantly now, it won't for long. You stand nothing to lose if you accidently break something. 2. Think it's too hard? I showed my wife physically, then this thread, what the reasoning behind my long-failed clock was... when I came home, SHE had fixed the clock, with no soldering experience. So, no, this is not too hard for you. Just do it.:)
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MY04 Forester XS seacoastsubarus.com Last edited by ValuePack : 03-23-2007 at 12:42 PM. |
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#57 (permalink) |
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Got a new clock for my 99 forester and THEN saw this post!! Just making sure before I start soldering: we're talking about the line of solder that actually connects r150 to the board at the ends of r150 right?
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benj. burch '99 Subaru Forester S Version |
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